Projects Spitting transmission fluid

I rebuilt an 83 350 to put in an elky with a 2004r (85, had a 305), was spinning fluid from backside of tc so I pulled it, changed the front seal, back together, same thing. Do I need a different flexplate (153 off the 305), converter (305) , washers, a 700? It's in the back so I'm getting tired of crawling around in the dirt and gravel.
Thanks for your help

 

Might want to try to figure out where the oil is really leaking from, before you get too far along. Pump bolts? pump O ring or gasket? Vent?

Are you using the 200-4R converter? not something else?

The flexplate should be the same distance....did you check how much gap there is between the converter mounting pad and flexplate before you bolted them together? You should have to slide the converter forward about 1/16-1/8" from fully seated in the trans, to get it to contact the flexplate.

 

When I changed the seal it was dripping from the seal, pump was dry. 200 tc had a bit of wear but I thought the seal would hold that. Trans didn't have a problem when the 305 seized.
Thanls

 

I didn't check the gap other then it was in and behind the case. I guess I'll take the tc/fw bolts out and push the tc back.
Thanks

 

Do you remember if the dowel pins were in place?

 

dowel pins?

 

On the back of the engine block, the transmission has holes in it to fit over them. They are located above the lowest transmission-to-block bolts.

 

Yes those dowels are fine and are handy.

 

When the 305 seized up, did you have to drag the converter out of the trans with the motor? The pump may have gotten damaged if so.

 

It was pretty common for the pump bushing to move out of position towards the front seal on the earlier 2004R causing the leak.You will have to pull it out again and remove the pump to check the bushing and any other possible damage.Don’t just change the seal again.

 

Converter stayed with the trans.
Ok, I'll pull it and have a trans guy look at it.
Thanks Squirrel, Dale, Kevin and Marty
I'll let you know how it goes

 

Pretty much if it was leaking at the pump seal, and a new seal didn't fix it; either you damaged the new seal on installation or the pump bushing has a problem.

 

Thanks jaracer

 

I have seen a front pump (convertor bearing) for whatever the cause worn enough to byp*** fluid, sometimes a seal will remedy it but bearing (bushing) needs replaced.

 

I took the tc bolts out and moved it back off the fp and there's enough space for a sheet of paper. Is that enough or? Maybe 1/32

 

The tc post is worn down, if I put a strait edge on it i'm sure it would show a dip.
Thanks DC

 

That’s not enough clearance. Need at least a 1/16. A sheet of paper may be .002-.004

 

Ok thanks Kevin. Washers between motor and trans to see if it quits spitting fluid?

 

I suspect that your torque converter is not fully-engaged with the front pump.

It has been a long time since I installed a 2004R, but I remember there being about a finger tip gap between the flex plate and the converter bolt bosses on initial install.

Washers between the block and bell hosing will do nothing for an unseated converter, and may risk breaking the bellhousing, and damaging the pump.

 

Different transmission, but you get the idea:


That gap fairly large. That is what it should look like before it is pulled forward to the flexplate.

Washers there are only appropriate if you have a motor plate, or block protector, or both.

 

Thanks gimpyshotrods, I'll see if i can get it where it goes. Been having thunderstorms here but tomorrows might be better.

 

Remember, you are aligning and coupling several steps on the input ***embly.

It's all what you can see, plus the collar that drives the pump itself.



When the converter is in all the way, you should not be able to get a finger between the converter body, and the aluminum that is adjacent to the transmission pan rail.



On these transmissions it is technically possible to install the front pump impeller hub backwards (similar with the pump drive gear on other GM transmissions).

If this has been done, then it will not be possible to fully seat the torque converter.

If the transmission has not been apart recently, that's probably not it.

 

This is a naked impeller hub:

It is turned by the two tangs that stick in towards the center. They are not the same thickness as the entire impeller hub.

This needs to be installed with the tangs biased away from the engine.

The polished snout of the torque converter slides into this, and the notches engage the hub tangs.

It is hard to see in the first picture, so here is a earlier GM transmission pump gear setup:

The center arrangement of the mechanism is the same. The pumping methodology is different. Note the tang offset.

 

Thanks gimpyshotrods, Funny how sometimes everything falls into place and other times you can't get out of your own way. Makes sense i missed the last one twice now, hope i didn't break something in the process.