Event Coverage Big daddy goes racing with the 60 Elco!

The "R" looks a little fatter than the rest of the letters...like it might have been an "F" at one time...kind like a tattoo cover-up

 

Shit, I didn't know it had to be perfect jack! I should've gotten vinyl lettering

 

I Love the Bomb on the fender!!!

 

LOL The lettering is fine buddy...but you aren't fooling us. I just think you started out with*****US...and had second thoughts.

 

Boom!

 

Hey @squirrel , I'm all in at 2200 now. 34⁰ seems to be where it wants to run best. I'm at 10⁰ initial. And at the suggestion of @Moriarity , I then hooked the vacuum advance to the manifold vacuum and checked it against initial, it was 24⁰, so I backed the screw out until I hit 20⁰. So, now I'm at 10⁰ initial, 34⁰ all in at 2200rpm, and with the vacuum advance hooked up at light throttle 3000rpm, I'm at 44⁰. Sound like a plan? Runs good like this. No detonation either.

 

I know you didn't ask for my input, but you need to remember that a street tune and a track tune are 2 COMPLETELY different animal's. In all reality, your tune up isn't the problem. It's the gear and the converter that's*****in' you.

 

Yeah I understand that, I'm trying to make the car run correct. Not fast. It will never be fast with this engine. No way I would put gears in it to crutch the lack of power. I'll just put power in it when I get to that lol

 

It's good that you understand the true issue. Helps keep all the parts inside the Oil Pan.

 

I don't know if I would call this excessive camshaft Mark lol

 

you just need some 4.56 gears and a 10" converter. Then again, a big block might fix the issue without the gearing changes

 

That's what I'm talking, and still be drivable

 

That's pretty wild for what you want to do with a stock converter and a 3.42 gear It'd probably be quicker with a Duntov cam. And STILL be driveable...

 

When did a 4.56 gear become unstreetable???

 

It's not big, per se but just about anything aftermarket is going to move the torque up and farther away from the stall speed.
I wonder if you can foot brake it up higher with the timing change?

 

The converter is gonna be a 3000 stall with the big block. And I believe you told me that you can't drive your car to Bowling Green because of the gears you're running

 

Not sure, didn't try it yet. I'm just tickled to have it running good lol. With the carb that was on it, if you matted the pedal from idle, it stuttered and fumbled like a kid that you caught up in a lie lol.

 

That depends on how fast you want to go. One neat thing about them is that the often end up with a TH400 behind them, which you can do some neat converter tricks with...like switch pitch...

 

My fire chief is building a 72 vette, but he's going all stupid on the drivetrain. It had a fresh 400t in it, I've already told him he owes me for the work I've done on his chassis, plus I know it'll be at my shop for paint lol

 

Jack i didn't understand what you was saying at first lol

 

Lloyd, I bet you already picked up a couple of tenths with the changes you made from the advice given. Very interesting thread, wish I had more to contribute. I do agree with the converter change.
Lay off the race gas and just put some high test in it (or even mid grade). After a few weekends you’ll be able to get a converter with the $ you save.
I’m guessing your at 8, possibly 9:1 comp. You don’t need 110, hell it might even hurt your times.

 

Marty I had a 49 packard that I know would run at least 185 mph off the side of Pikes Peak, but it wasn't on the chart. LOL but I get what you're saying. Lippy

 

Factory specs on this engine is anywhere from 9.25-1 to 9.5-1 factory. It's .030 over, and the heads were cut .007 so it's over that, I didn't bother with CC'ing as its sole purpose was to replace the 350 in my 57. But yes, back down to 10⁰ and 34⁰ total, I'm not hearing any detonation now. Which it still has good gas in it. We'll see what happens when Friday gets here, I'm going over for test & tune at the track. I'm not gonna invest anymore cash into this setup, from here, my money will go into the big block, and to Mark for the sweet wheels he made me a deal on

 

Not that it matters here but the only way to know the true compression is to check everything.
Rebuilder oversize piston usually have the crown height reduced over standard bore so as to not raise c/r.
.007 probably not 2 cc.s less in the chamber. It depends on who did the valve job and where the valves ended up.
Anyway, I'm thinking pump gas 462, oval port, hyd. roller, 2800 stall, 3310 carb , 4.10's. Easy 7's in the 1/8th
That oughta tear the rear suspension out of it. LOL

 

Is that the cam I sent you? It was strong mid range in her 55 snotty 327 with a PG and 3.70 rear. Ran mid 14's back in the 80's When I redid the motor some years back the cam is again a SIG same intake specs but more on the exhaust.

 

The nice thing about if you pop for a converter now you can still use it with the big block! Even if you switch to a 400 trans at some point.

 

Show us a pic of the wheels!