Hi. I’m stuck on my project and I need some ideas to go further. It’s a self made dual exhaust system, using 1 3/4’’ Simons tubing. Stock flathead powered. I have an original ´32 frame. I drill the hole on the driver side to go thru the rear crossmember. I can’t find a satisfying way to hang the tube on the frame. It must be invisible from outside, reliable and not to ugly. I prefer using existing holes in the frame.
I can tell you one thing, going through that rear crossmember will rattle if you don't have the pipe mounted very ridged. I would have gone over the rear end but you have holes in the crossmember to work with.
I bought exhaust hangers for a 35-37 and modified a 48-5259 for 1-3/4" pipe where the pipe goes through the rear cross member. https://thirdgenauto.com/product/1935-37-ford-muffler-outlet-pipe-front-bracket-hanger-clamp/
WITH ALL DUE RESPECT! I wanna say alot here..... but can't find the words to not be sounding abrasive ...what you did looks good if it was house drain pipe plumbing, but it has sooo many wrongs... My shop, which was "Las Vegas Streetrods" which we changed the name to Best Mufflershop" has been doing HotRod, street rod exhaust for 50 years, with 1000's of happy customers... first off, the clamps... just asking for rattles and leaks.... next,... flat heads have way to much vibration and movement for the exhaust to be installed ridged ..same with most all motors.... exhaust needs hangers and to be able to move.. even the pic above, that hanger will stop it from moving side to side a little... but won't stop it from rattling and moving up and down with the motor.. or going over bumps... the tail pipe is at the wrong angle and no matter what hanger you use, that will be what every one see's first.... I would weld a flat hanger on the inside of the pipe where it would be pretty much hidden and rubber mount to the frame...pretty much every car I end up with I have to re-do the exhaust.. my model A, B Banger is getting a custom tig welded header, mandrel bent dual Lake pipe exhaust... with the vibration and movement of that little motor, most likely I will have 2 small flexpipes to stop rattles and cracked welds...I've done cars to where there was no other way to do the tail pipe besides ridged, and had to use flex pipes .... same with my model A... the lake pipes Will be mounted ridged w/ rubber doughnut washers..... but thats not enough move ment so flex pipe will most likely be needed up close to the header...
My hats off to you for doing this your self... and you do very clean work... so many people get their car done , then brag at the runs and shows, "I Built This Myself"..... when the most work they did was sign the checks and swipe their card... Oh,... and I love the protectors on the jack stands.. brilliant idea...
I might be wrong, but hard to tell form the pic,... but I think the bends are in front of the rearend????? and over the top well above the axel tube????
Question.... asking for a friend.... what fuel tank is that??? and also, is there a fuel pump in the tank??? is it set up for a return line??? looks like there are 3 hose hook ups, One return, one feed and one vent???
Thanks for your replies. From another angle. The reason there is so much clamps is because when the pipe is sliding thru the crossmember and on the tube, the pipe need to twist. So can’t be welded.
it come from Tanks inc. you’re right about the 3 connections. dont’t know if a pump can go inside. The send unit is an universal from VDO and will work with my s.w. gauge
As others have said, keep in mind that the exhaust pipes expand and contract by heat, so they should not be mounted rigid, if you send me your email address, I'll try to send you a video of my `32 ch***is with a flathead dual exhaust running. without the body on yet. I mounted my mufflers ( Smithys) by the same holes as the running board brackets, and snaked around the outside of my right side mounted battery, since the left side has floor mounted stock type brake/clutch pedals with hydraulic. master cylinder. My email: alan6836@sbcglobal.net
I think they have one for efi.... I was wondering about the model a conversion and finding a pos. gnd. fuel pump,.... since the fire I want the cowl tank gone...
I would enlarge the holes in the frame as that will allow you to p*** thru and have more room to move without rattling. You might try to find some of the later model exhaust hangers like OEM car manufacturers use. They have a steel rod/bracket that the rubber slides on. I go to the junk yard and cut them off the car/truck. You weld it to the pipe and hang it in the rubber at a convenient spot. Usually can be unobtrusive. These were from a Chevy S10 but there is a wide variety if you look around at the junk yard.
I remember looking under my first OT pickup truck and seeing how they hung the exhaust system. The combination of steel and rubber hangers seems like a good way to do it.
The hangers pictured above work great but do not fit the era his 32 Ford is from. He need to study how a stock 32 Ford has the exhaust hung and do his best to duplicate it.
Here's a couple of ideas. The previous owner drilled the floor for seat belts, so the damage was done, I just incorporated the holes for the seat belts in with the exhaust hanger cross bar. It's a 1" X 1/2" steel channel spanning across the floor and over the frame on each end. There is also hangers off the K-Member welded to the exhaust with a rubber link.. I probably should install some type of rubber link on the back hangers to give it some room to move. As you did, I hole sawed the rear cross member to accept the other pipe. It took a lot of time to get the correct angles and bends to get it the way I wanted. Luckily 1-3/4 exhaust pipe is the same size as 1-1/2 E.M.T. electrical conduit, being an electrician, I have the benders, but it still was not an easy job.
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