Aluminum trim polishing / repair

Quick question about aluminum trim.

I've bumped out the dents and dings on some pieces of trim off my galaxie and am now starting the filing / sanding process.

I've gotten everything down to 180 grit and it's looking really good.

Two questions:

1. How fine do I need to go to get back to the original level finish?

2. What steps in the sanding / polishing should I use?

Like I said, everything is down to 180 now. What's next? 320? 400? Can someone list out the grit step-ups I should use?

Thanks, in advance.

- RBR

 

Hey,

Once ya get all of the damage repaired and the scratches all feathered
out ,how are ya gonna cover the raw aluminum to keep in from oxdizing?
Clear epoxy finish? the aluminum won't stay polished without it for long.
Once you get beyond the 400 wet 'n' dry try rubbing compound or mag
polish to reach the finish you're after.

Swankey Devils C.C.

 

Get with 'polisher' here on the HAMB...he's got a nice booklet & can walk you through the steps.

 

The original factory finish was for the aluminum to be 'Anodized'. This is what kept it from oxidizing.

 

Thought I'd bring this back up.

I did pm Polisher some questions and got a lot of good advice from his reply.

Thanks Polisher.

Just wanted to know if anyone else had any input.

One additional note. I did NOT remove the annodizing from the headlight ring I was working on. Does all of the trim have annodizing or only the side trim pieces?

In any case, if anyone has additional input or information, it would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks to all.

- RBR

 

All of the aluminum trim is anodized.

 

The trim on the sides of the car should be stainless, so should headlight ring or bezel, unless it is chromed.
Only the aluminum will be anodized.
Do not use clearcoats or lacquers unless you are prepared to do it all again in 5 years.
They will discolor.

 

Just took the chrome and aluminum for the Facel Vega to the platers . The grille and shell are anodized . He pointed out that there are several different types of anodizing. I'm not talking colored anodizing but the bright finish. He mentioned that the processes used in the 30's, 40's, 50's ect. were different . Most of the late model anodizing is "Bright White" and when compared to the original processes from the past is considerably different in color and tone from the "Burnished" and other anodizing processes of the period. I always thought all brite anodizing was the same like chrome plating.
Only bringing this point up because you may have some mismatched trim if some of the original trim is cleaned and reused and other brightwork is redone.

Larry

 

Here's a tech archive piece on polishing.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97179

 

You CAN'T polish/sand aluminum trim without first removing the anodizing.
Anadozing not only seals aluminum and protects it from rusting, it is a very hard surface. Much harder than aluminum. If you start sanding on it, you'll wear thru the anodizing in some spots but not others. Once you break thru in one spot, as you pass over the area again with the sand paper, you'll remove the nice soft aluminum. Problem is, the surrounding area still has its anodizing on it. As you keep sanding, you remove a lot of the soft aluminum while you're still trying to break thru the anodizing. The result is a piece that is wavy, and you'll never get it smooth.
Caustic soda will remove the anodizing prior to sanding/polishing. I don't know where to get caustic soda, but it's out there. I'm not even sure that's the proper name--it's been a while since I did a story on this with a guy who makes a very, very good living doing concours restoration of stainless and aluminum trim.
Once the anodizing is stripped away, then you start the repair process.
Unless you spend a bunch of money, and can even find an anodizing shop that will recoat your trim, you'll just have to wax and polish the anodizing regularly, much like billet (gasp!) wheels and other parts.

-Brad

 

Caustic soda is sodium hydroxide or lye.
Comes in EEZEEOFF oven cleaner and a bunch of others if you want to spray it.
Or you can buy the Caustic soda itself from hardware stores.
Bright anodizing done well is comparable to chrome and lasts as long or longer.
I have seen and worked on anodized trim, but generally speaking it is on '60's motors, ford and chevy seemed to use it the most.
Other than that side trim is almost always stainless.
If you try to polish anodizing or strip it with abrasives it becomes a nightmare.
Anodizing is aluminum oxide and is as hard as most of the abrasives out there, and much harder than aluminum.