Well checking the measurements, it looks like the battery that @1-SHOT is showing is a better fit as far as dimensions. It is much more narrow and will give the clearance I am looking for. The CCA is much lower (170) on this battery however. The one @Pist-n-Broke showed has 330 CCA. The size of it width wise is the same as the battery I have now. And here in lies the problem. There isn't enough clearance on the A/C compressor. With the fact that I am going to be running A/C, and at some point power windows and probably several other electrical items other than the standard lights, horn, etc that goes in a kustom, how will the CCA come into play with all this? Or is it the HCA I should be looking at. I am about dumb when it comes to batteries. I could move the battery back towards the firewall and I may end up doing that. Again, I am battery dumb but I am just not sure that small battery will be sufficient for everything I want the car to do electrically. I don't want to overthink this, or let it hold me up on moving forward. Decisions, decisions!
All those accessories have more to do with the size of alternator needed more than battery. The CCA rating of the battery has more to do with what it takes to start the engine which will depend more on compression, etc. Anyway, I am no battery expert either, but I don’t like to run batteries much less than something like that 330 CCA battery that you mention. 170 sounds more like a lawnmower battery for a small gas 2 cylinder engine or something.
Jeff, That's pretty much what I was thinking. I know I need at least a 100 amp alternator but the 170 CCA concerns me. Looking into this a little more before ordering a $200 battery for sure!
If I understand correctly, car batteries in the 40s and 50s generated fewer than the equivalent of 150 cold crank amps so I would think the 170 CCA battery would be sufficient for starting the engine. We are talking pretty low compression and lots of leverage on a large flywheel. Robin, you could probably test that by trying to crank it with your riding mower's battery... which I bet is in the 150 range. I don't know if a mower battery could handle running a car for a long period but it may be possible to just use a lawn tractor battery for starting and a beefy alternator to run your accessories?
That’s a good suggestion as far as trying the lawn mower battery to crank it. I didn’t figure that 6 had tons of compression, but that is a free test and should answer the question on what is needed.
I'm not trying to cheap-out on a battery, but I'm not looking to spend more than a couple hundred for a good one. Most Optimas I see are $300+. But to be transparent, I did look at Optimas and decided that was a bit more than I can afford at the moment.
Monty as had been said before, alternator runs the accessories just get a good battery. You mentioned moving the battery back towards firewall, a suggestion if I may try moving it towards the outside likee notching the inner fender well. Your metal skills seem to be good enough for that job. It gives a little more room away from the AC compressor, just look under the fender at how far the wheel turns. Pat
Pat, That was how this whole discussion started out. I can notch the inner fender well without it interfering with the turning radius of the tire. It doesn't have to be but maybe 3" to give clearance for the A/C compressor. I have already jacked the front end up and turned the steering lock to lock and the tire would come nowhere near the notch I would make into the inner fender well. And thanks for the props about my metal skills. Granted, some of it is pretty crude but it is much better than when I started this project 8 years ago!
Robin, what group size battery is the one in the picture? Looks a lot wider than 5 inches. Would a Group size 51 work for you? They are 9 3/8ths L x 5.06 W x 8 3/4 H. CCA from 440 to 665,
Alan, the battery is a 24 MS. I picked it up as I need to replace the battery in my old 9N, and also I could use it for my privacy gate to the entrance to my property,or the winch on my trailer if need be. It was less than $100 so I can use it on any of the before mentioned things, and buy the right size battery for the car. I wasn't too concerned about the size of the battery I needed until I got the compressor mocked up. I will definitely look into the Group Size 51 battery you mentioned. Size DOES matter for this particular installation.
RMONTY; I guess you missed the part where I said you can mount them any direction you want/need. This PC925 has been on its side in my John Deere 855 tractor for 9 years. If you use Eye terminals on the Batt end of your cables instead of the standard post, you only have 4.5" in width. You can mount them on any of their 4 sides. You can set them on the Bottom or even upside down if you need the terminals coming through the Floor. Another thing I just love is at times the Tractor don't get run in a full season but when it is needed the Battery isn't dead. When there is Zero draw, they Never lose any charge. Best bang for the Battery Buck ever. Oh ya, they don't corrode at the terminals either.
Dunno nuthin' 'bout bat'ries, other than what has been said, but I like the idea of a skinnier battery in the same location. So far as moving the radiator forward, that I do know sum'fin about. I think you will have a hard time doing that with all that is connected to it. I'm running basically the same bracket set up as you and am running my electric fan on the front side in front of the condenser....no problems yet and it's been out there for 6 years in hard use.
I will echo Wizz's comments on that PC925. I bought on 3 or 4 years ago while fabricating my truck, it has never been a charger, I have a disconnect switch that prevents parasitic draw. I have another in my roadster going on 8 years. never on a trickle charger, always ready to go play. And they are one of the only batteries certified for use in hospitals to run portable medical equipment as they don't out gas. If you don't like the way they look, there are companies that offer sticker kits to pretty them up. Mine are hidden.
Well, now that, I don't recall. Lemme step outside and look.... Maradyne And yes, no mechanical fan. I'm running a 4 core radiator as well.
Could you please take a picture showing the belts and which one runs which accessory? Such as rear belt runs alternator, front runs water pump and A/C ? It would be greatly appreciated! Did you have to press the hub on the water pump back towards the engine to line the pulleys up?
No, I don't recall having pressed the hub back further....but I am aging so that could have happened and I don't remember. LOL I chromed them, does that count for anything? LOL OK, here ya go...hope you can see it. The back balancer groove goes to the compressor (rear groove on that as well). Front balancer groove goes to the ps pump and the rear ps pump groove goes up to the alternator. So, you gotta tighten the ps pump belt first (which is kinda easier with the alternator off), then tighten the alternator belt, of course. ....dang, my advance vacuum line and fuel line are out of line with each other....that's gonna bug me. hahahahaha!!!
Im probably the only one here but Id run the 100$ battery & notch it like you suggested. Kinda help it not stand out so far would look nice & clean. Not knocking any one elses suggestions... Master Starter & Alt. Aka Danny Burford in Royce City has done all the generators in my old cars & Alternators on our dailys. He's a great dude & hot rodder. He could probably answer any questions you have about your charging needs. Last I talked to him he was at Sachse Rod Shop but still running Master as well, that was about 3 years ago.
Hahahah! Yeah, that would bug me too....OCD don'cha know? I would bet you have already been out there since you wrote this and have tweaked the line back straight.
I still haven't dismissed the idea of notching into the fender well. This is a custom after all, and I have a bunch of 18 ga steel laying around, I am unemployed at the moment, I need something to do that doesn't cost money......and I like metal working. I think the 100 amp alternator should take care of everything I am going to do with the car. But thanks for the heads up on Danny Burford. If need be I will look him up.
The Jalopy Journal
