Ran into this front tire rub issue and would like to get a little knowledge laid on me from the hotrod help line. See the tire clearance vs the kingpin bolt axle stop, I’m aware the pin needs to be flush with the axle to be fully installed , but it will still be too short and allow a tire rub on the bones. Parts as follows: Pete and jakes deont axle and spindles Mt products Lincoln backing plates Any suggestions? Change backspacing on rim??
Add a longer stop. Your turning radius is going to be compromised but that's what happens when you split the bones and run them straight back. I went 15 inches back from the pin and V'd the bones a little at a time until the back end of the bones was running parallel to the center line of the car. I fish plated the back of the bend. No tire rub.
Thanks, my cap nut measurement is 1 3/8 long and has no lock washer , looks like I can add a washer and if needed buy a set of 1 1/2 cap nuts to maybe fix this.
How difficult would it be to get a couple of short pieces of larger hex rod and make your own? Drill and tap the centers and cut them to the length you need. Or, use a hex nut larger than the cap nut, drill the center out of the hex nut and weld it to the end of the cap nut. Don't think making the cap nut longer is going to help, wider would work.
I ended up stacking a few washers behind the stop nut to move it out further. Doesn't look like you need much... Also just want to mention I have been doing a bunch of reading on brake issues and something that came up is the through frame brake line fittings. It seems they have been accused of holding air in the lines making it a nightmare to get a good firm pedal. Might save you some headache further down the line.
So just use the wishbone for the stop!!! Just don't turn real fast and short! LOL Why do my front tires stink?
That happens when you run a later axle with the spring perches spread further apart with bones that are split and out on the sides of the frame rails. Moving the rear mounts of the bones inward a bit would help a lot.
If you are turning that sharp at speed you are on a dirt track letting it all hang out or in the ditch. You will only ever get there in tight spots like a parking lot.
When I built my last deuce highboy pickup I used a dropped 32 axle, 32/34 spindles, Lincoln brakes, 32/34 tie rod ends on the tie rod and drag link, full length split 32 bones with 32/34 rod ends mounted to the outside of the rails, 37 Hudson side steer with a 34 pitman arm and 500X16 Excelsior tires on 5 inch rims with neutral centers. I'm listing all this because not only did the truck drive great with no problems but the tires did not rub the bones. I used the kingpin kit from Early V8 Garage and the stops that came with the kit. I just did it the way I'd done several customer ch***is. Maybe I just got lucky?
Outside sipes of the tire will make a warning ⚠️ sound that you turned too far. I don't see the other end of your wish bone. I never understood why cats would cut and run the wishbone parallel to the frame, defeats the principle.
I believe @dana barlow would argue that point with you. I got the idea for mine off of his roadster that he built in 1959 and his front end is still working just like when he built it.
It’s all good fellows, thanks for all the input. Fixed it by drawing the pins in almost flush with the axle and adding an 1/8” lock washer on the nut side no harm to turning radius and full stop before tire contact
Like "ALANP561 " pointed out well ; The stop turn"Nut"being the right size to stop tire from hitting anything is needed. Combined with Bones being made to stay out of the way of tire [ bent as needed ]. I see hotrod mistakes made the most often on the frontends. As a kid in early Jr High ,I read ever book I could find about auto suspension. Before trying to build a real car. Many were about racecars also. Looking around a lot, often,I could see many hotrods I looked at,were pretty much just bolted together anyway they could or tryed to copy a old photo they thought showed how? But copying some ones mistake they did,will never make it right.= Lot of messed up mistakes. Taking the time too learn before you do> Pays off ,as soon as you start to work some know how. You don't have to fix it later. So may things,when you know, when looking at hotrod frontends> Stick out like a "SORE THUMB"= Like big scrub from rim an tire being much too far out side away from the kingpin. Shocks mounted too close to center of car=Not going to work well. Front springs done so they don't work right{ too strong/too long/in a bind an so on}. Steering arms backword or replace with aftermarket **** that had zero ackermem designed in too them<and sold as" can go ether way"<no they,don't work well etherway is what it should say. Plus sidesteer steering link & box placed out of faze with how bones move= bumpsteer< So designed in **** steering. Ya,thats a lot for some,yet I did not put down anything near as many screw up as can be see on many hotrods. One not so funny thing,about hotrods with those things wrong,is owners sometimes say "My car drives great" The scary part is,they don't think any thing is wrong,after all it feels OK to them in a straight line on a smooth road. Believe old cars feel kind of wiggly anyway= BS ,if they ever drove a well done hotrod long enough to feel how it should be. They 'd be in a new world ,or so hardheaded there brain just in total denial. The time you take to learn about anything before doing it,,is never wasted.
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