Technical Dreaded removal of old Undercoating.

warhorseracing, I plan on fixing what I can of the pinholes. Most were there since the early 70's so I'm not chasing any new ones or rust. Not going to braze or weld those as they haven't been a problem. OK, I might braze a few, but we'll see. Most likely I will use 3m structural adhesive or JB weld type of products to fill the pinholes. Car doesn't get much mileage and certainly not in bad weather. Stays in a snugly garage, ready for road trips.

 

Where I live there seems to be several used tanks available so I thought it might be the same where you are. Don't they make fire extinguishers that have CO2 in them? Maybe a used one thats charged. Again, locally there seem to be several ads where people are trying to sell large quanities of used extinguishers. Michigan seems to have plenty and saw some CO2 ones cheap. Depends on how far they are from you.

 

Here's a pic of the old undercoating that popped off easy as pie with the cold spray. I just didn't have enough spray. It's a good way to go if you can get a hold of ANY cold orCryo process versus heat.
So... I'm off Saturday morning driving 2.5 hours to a guy to finish the job (I hope) with dry ice blasting. He's got a new start up biz on the side and is giving me a weekend deal.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
The big piece shown here is about 7" square. Very clean way to go.

 

Hello,

Every time I read about the after effects of “stuff” on hands, arms and various body parts, I instantly think of the old days of having a connection to those “Amway” products. At the time, it was supplemental income when we sold stuff to friends and family. The Liquid Organic Cleaner or L.O.C. was the main product. It was their fancy name for liquid soap. But, what a liquid soap it was.
Amway Home L.O.C. Multi-Purpose Cleaner

At the time, our son was a baby to toddler stage and a whole new ballgame for my wife and me. We had our house sanitized to the nth degree and were going a little crazy thinking of ways to “clean” our surroundings. Picking up a new born was something, let alone a rambling toddler. So, both of us were clean fanatics. We read all of the product information for the popular products on the market. This was a hidden gem. Not harsh at all, it left our hands soft and clean. The surfaces that needed to be clean/sanitary were done quickly and safely.

It was as strong as any cleaner on the market, but without using petroleum base cleaners, like Go Jo, Goop or other products auto parts/Pep Boys had in stock. Those products cleaned, but left a gas station smell on whatever was cleaned. The dark stuff came off, but the odor remained.

When using the LOC solution, it went on like liquid soap and a few “rolly” motions with hands thoroughly encircling each other, stuff came off. Washing or wiping was the next step. If water was a far away location, wiping off with a towel made the hands feel as clean as before starting the next project.

Road hazards are all over the place...Gas tanks in most cars are ripe for getting hit, just because they are in the back and usually one of the lowest spots on the ch***is. Despite the tons of undercoating and straps for protection, they get hit from items described or hit something because there are a ton of people inside. If hands get dirty from the melting of the undercoating product, this LOC product will get it off, without damaging your skin like commercial petroleum products. Plus, you will not smell like a walking gas bomb.

Jnaki

One summer in Hawaii, we picked out a cool, used, British Army Green, 4 door, 1962 Nash Rambler American for $350.00. It had 30000 miles and was in great shape. We drove it back to our friend's house and it ran great. We all (6) fit neatly in the car. It started up every time and was the most reliable used car purchase we had ever purchased. Stick shift, 30k on the shocks, springs, etc so, what could go wrong?

After a wild ride down a dirt road path to a hidden waterfall and a surf spot. We had a gas tank leak in the corner after bottoming out on a huge rut. It began to smell on the way home, but we just let it go for the next 30 miles. Because of the amount of p***engers, beach stuff, three surfboards on top, it was obviously lowered than stock height. So, we gave it no other thought and drove it like there was no tomorrow. But, it hit something and we knew we had to fix it before any other surf spot adventures.

The tank was removed and thoroughly drained. First, we tried the two tube, epoxy type formula and it fell off, even though it hardened on the gas tank. The tank surface, probably, was not completely clean or had some oily stuff on it, despite our cleaning techniques. We then s****ped the undercoating completely off to bare metal in the damaged area, with enough room for the fibergl***/resin compound to spread and seal correctly.

We had a small torch and thought we could weld over the hole(s). But, we were hesitant to weld over the hole, as we were scared of the fumes remaining after draining the tank. We were cautious in s****ing off the undercoating on the tank. It was on a corner, so we s****ed off enough to expose the small dent and hole.

Being surfers, we patched it with multiple layers of fibergl*** cloth, fibergl*** cloth shreds, and resin to make a hard shell over the small hole. The liquid fortified mixture went down into the depression as we used a small glob of semi hardened fibergl*** in the actual hole. After all, we looked at it as a metal surfboard that needed some water tight repairs. Once hardened, the leak test was successful and no further leaks for the rest of the summer. The metal tank was cleaned with thinner and acetone to get the surface prepped to its cleanest for a sure stick location.

Those multiple layers of 10 oz. fibergl*** did the trick. As far as looks underneath, a black spray paint can did the job. Many years later, my friend still drove the Rambler and the fibergl***/resin combo was holding fast. Creative surfers using what they know best, a patch is a patch if done right… YRMV

 

I could have used a Fuller Brush man also !

 

I have seen guys put a couple of 10 pound bags of ice on the floor inside the car. Lots of people do use the oscillating multi tools with a putty knife blade attachment. they are cheap enough at Harbor Freight. It does work without heat or cold. it is a lot easier than doing it entirely by hand.

 

So, I drove to the small area of Aurora, MO and had
about 6 hours of Dry Ice blasting done. Good guy, very concientous. He was admittedly new to the process but giving me a deal. It did remove some of the UC but not the rest as I had hoped. However the process is amazing and does a super clean job with no residue left behind. It just vaporizes everything.
You guys in the Joplin, Springfield, Mo areas should get with him. His name is Mallory David (yes, his dad named him after the Ignition set up, True motorhead. Contact me and I'll give you his number. Works on weekends and is Mobile!

I am finishing up the job with the dry ice method as mentioned earlier by several members. This works pretty great and doesn't create the nasty mess. Most if you can get to it just pops off in nice big chunks. Then the dry ice just evaps away into a gas. Careful as
asphyxiation is a known hazard. So use lots of ventelation.

I am Almost done!

 

Dropped the fuel tank this evening, so this opens up more area to be able to get to easily. Making good progress. Found more pinholes in the trunk floor, but they are easily fixable. They start out as factory drain holes anyway.

 

Slight temporary setback. My midtown area in Tulsa was hit with 100 mph lateral winds a few days ago. 144,000 folks without power. Lotsa limbs and debris littered everywhere. Neibors pecan tree fell on my garage, hopefully no serious damage there, but we did get a hole poked in our hose roof, but it is over the deck, not the home. I sure hate to losing all the trees.

 

Glad you are safe

 

Yes, you're safe and came out of it pretty well. Losing trees is a bummer.

 

The upside to losing trees is that the same ones won't be falling on the house going forward. Just trying to put a bit of positive spin on an otherwise troubling experience. Good luck with the recovery. Glad everyone is safe.

 

My sister and mom got damage in Broken Arrow also in the same storm.

 

Finally getting around to posting my experience with dry ice blasting. Worked excellent on painted surfaces without damaging or changing them. Super cleans everything, however did not quite remove enough of my old undercoating.

https://youtube.com/shorts/lhnJM8iSlc8?feature=share

I did however use an aforementioned method reccomended by T Man, Mitch 36 and Nickleone of placing bags of dry ice in the trunk floor and behind the seat floors. This is by far the fastest, safest and cleanest method. Stuff mostly shatters like gl***. Just have to make sure you can move it to an area above what you are working on and let it set for 5-10 minutes. pop it with a wooden mallet or something similar. You may want still have use a thin putty knife or possibly a plastic one to keep from scratching the metal. Best method I've found all-round by far.

I am making good progress now, pulled the fuel tank and got the area under and around it all cleaned and painted. Looks much better to me, which is all that matters. I'll try to get some pics before long.

 

I've spritzed water on undercoating and sound deadening, followed by a thin layer of crushed dry ice, let it cool for a minute or two till I hear it pop and release from the metal. By then, give it a good wack with a rubber mallet and watch it come off in large chunks.

 

Love the dry ice 'tool'.
When I bought my wife her birthday gift 10 years ago from an esteemed customer of mine, the beautiful factory gold of the OT three-letter type 5 got a large dent from an idiot of a neighbor, playing with a bowling ball (!)
The bowling ball came bouncing along the curb, then veered right into her right rear door. BUMP!
After 'chastising' the father of the irresponsible teen, I set about how to remove this dent. (the 'easy way')
I drove to the liquor store, sign in the front window read "DRY ICE". I purchased 2 slabs, about 2 sq. feet.
My wife propped a 5 ft. 2 X 4 against the dry ice, right in the dent. After 10 minutes, I tapped around the dent and it popped out. The dent was gone, but there was a slight sign of stress where it had been...
My wife wisely replaced the ice cake on the stress and walked away.
When removed, the dry ice had done its job! No sign of a dent.
Plus, the neighbor came back over and offered to pay for the damage. He gave me $10 for the dry ice...
But in 2 months announced they were moving. He gave me a 20 foot extension ladder as a 'farewell gift'... LOL

 

A late follow-up to this thread.
I spent most of the summer trying the various methods all mentioned here. My vote for all-around best method was the bag of crushed dry ice positioned inside the car on the floorboards. Only issue with this method is if it's in an area you can't reach. Otherwise it's the best. And cleanest. In any case one has to still rinse with mineral spirits and then dawn dishwashing soap and a 3m type scrub pad to prep for paint. Buy the time I was done I got pretty good at it. Good enough to learn I will never do this again ONLY be an advisor! Here's some pics of the finish. It actually takes a combined method if you ask me. All of it still on your back with **** falling all over you especially in the eyes. Yes, I used all manner of masks and faceguards, goggles, etc. It takes all of these things. I brushed on Rustoleum smoke gray on the floor pans and rustoleum gloss black on frame and other places, some satin Black. I went thru a full box of 36 2" Chip brushes. Never cleaning any just tossing them after each section. I'm real satisfied with the way it came out. Also I like the way it's easier to see when I need to work under the car. I could only manage to stand working about 2, 2 1/2 hours at a time in the filth, but like I said I got used to it and better at gearing up for each event. Got it done.
Thanks Guys for all your great suggestions!

 

Makes me glad that all of the under coating that I have to remove is just on the underside of the running boards that I am using on my 48.