Projects Prefect / Willys /Kadett/Thames Gasser Build.

Radiator back in. In many ways I wish we had gone with alky. Could run another moon tank like they did on the Donovan as a radiator. They actually welded a. Radiator neck in it. Worked great.
Reset the throttle blades/then set throttle stops /etc to .004 and reset the cross link. The butterfly’s were way off.
Got time to pull the passenger side header and look at the gasket. It had a pinch and at first I thought I’d ultra copper it and let it ride.
Fat chance. It tore when I took that side off so I’ll get another set on the way.

 

Header gaskets replaced. I actually like the MR Gasket version better. These exhaust ports are pretty large and these are actually large enough with out mods.

 

Finally got a base tune that will let it idle /start/and go through basic parameters with out priming through the stacks.
Now I can at least get serious about final tune ( like that’s even possible with stack injection LOL) /and letting it run in so to speak. Checked all the vitals today and everything at least seemed to hold.
May have a new Crew chief and Driver. He gave me his opinion on tune up and even gave me his take on both set ups. He did tell me I spent to much money.

 

Great pics with your tuner. Love’em

 

Give him a helmet and tell him to leave on the last yellow and everything will be fine!

You can never start'em too young...

 

Grandson. And he’s fearless. I missed a deal here on Hamb. He would have had a midget. And was complete. His mother rode a q A 50 Honda before a bicycle. He got it honest.

 

I came into 2 (two) Curtis Quarter midgets for my two sons (aged 6 & 8 then)
They were 'thrown-in' with the purchase price for my '52 Porsche Pre-'A' roadster.
Buyer also 'threw-in' a pair of Halibrand wheels. (from his late father's collection)

 

Got a chance to put the final set up in. Been running crazy on all directions.
13% percent on the barrel. New set of plugs set at .018 and got to check all the lines and nozzles again to make sure they are clean. Butterfly’s in .004 and should be good to go. Maybe get to run it through a cycle or two later this week.

 

Got a chance to blow off the dust and wipe and wash the front cap. Had to move some stuff around today. First time the cap has seen light of day in almost a year. Gonna get there

 

Great build!

 

Overflow/puke tank. Gonna hard line that also.

 

Killed my lathe safety /reset switch. Gotta find another one. Had to do all the drilling and tapping by hand. Micky spoiled me with good tools.

 

Awesome build!

 

Thanks. I never thought it would take this long. Lol

 

Finished hard line fitting from radiator to tank. Was thinking of welding tabs but I am going to make a. Small cradle for each tab and use nice clamps instead. Was thinking about welding tabs but decided otherwise Just in case things change and the blown Alky idea does actually happen and the radiator is ditched all together. ( one day )

 

Ok. Sometimes the simplest is indeed the best way. Got the puke can mounted and hard lines run. IF by chance the hard line doesn’t clear the front cap I’ll bend up another line and run it to the side of it. And if I look at that line tomorrow and it doesn’t suit me I’ll bend another. I kinda wish it tucked in a little tighter but the flar nut style fittings don’t allow as tight a bend as I’d like

 

Ok. I have never liked the pet cock style valve. I’ve broken wings off etc. So I fixed that. I am using a ball valve with a lever. Yea it is over kill. But I bet I don’t have to worry about that anymore. I’d put one on each side of the block if I had the room. The polished stainless deal was not only too small but didn’t look right to me.
Mick has been at it again. You learn don’t say I wish I had that or I was looking at this the other day around him. It will show up. We are off the grid so to speak but the fedex dude apparently can find it.

 

Lesson one. ( more like ten thousand)
Moroso ceramic engine seal is great stuff. Is seals everything. Really well.
Number 10002. It will seal the seal in your remote water pump to the shaft and eat it lol.
Well at least I learned another fact. Electric motors will run even with a pint of water in it.

 

Off to find a seal. It’s the only thing in there. I am wondering if I can plung cut the bore with the mill and put two seals in back to back.
Can’t stand the idea that a 4 $ seal makes a 150-200$ water pump junk. Sorry this is why I am still stuck 2 generations behind. FIX the damn thing if possible. NOT parts replacement because
A. Don’t know how
B. It’s Quicker
C. It’s easier.
D. They didn’t have to work for the money to replace it etc.
Sorry. Just can’t stand the idea of it. I don’t like being dependent or controlled.

Actually on a positive. The reason we did the final seal in /of the engine /cooling with the ceramic seal is because we ran the Willy’s in quite a bit Saturday. Long enough I am pretty happy with it. Got two pretty long videos. If I can ever get them to up load.
Later.

 

Ok. We have success for parts at least. Went to MS Bearing supply in Tupelo and got every seal they had and a bearing just in case.
Now back together.

 

I got seals from McMaster carr for my water pump on my cam drive pump that goes between the Hilborn pump and my timing cover got them in two days and were very inexpensive not sure if they have what you needed or not but it’s another Avenue in the future if you need anything keep up the good work

 

Thanks for the info. I’ll keep that in mind. thanks for the compliments
About to finish one. Now two more to go. Lol

 

The level of knowledge and skill on this site still blows me away after being a member a long time. Awesome build and thanks for sharing your wins and losses.

 

Ok. RESET
The SKF ( USA made seal) 3060 does work. And as a matter of fact they are metal case and they are thin. You can double stack them and use an anaerobic sealer.
The bearing is also pretty common.
So yes you can service these pumps. I have done a fair amount of research and yep most are indeed made from the same place. ( XXXXX).
But they can be serviced.
That Being said. NO seal and No bearing will fix a crack/or porosity in the housing. Considered trying to weld it. And press in a new bushing. It’s past that point. So what did I gain.
1. I know it can and will run totally under /in water.
2. Yes. It can be serviced with common /kinda seals /bearings.
3. I have a lot of spare parts that will indeed fit the other than will have to get to replace it.
Now. What I didn’t tell you is I have two of these. I am robbing the one off of the Prefect.
And will put another in inventory and have a lot more knowledge and don’t think it’s an expendable none serviceable part. Again I don’t like being cornered into having to do anything or being dependent on anyone more than I have to be. It is the one principle that was instilled in me as a child that I value above all.
Build all you can while you can with what ever have. I think it’s the base underlining principle.

 

Panhead Pete. Thanks for the props. It’s a journey.

 

Everything swapped over to replacement. Also Micky ordered a correct temp sender fitting for the back of the manifold. The adapter bushing wasn’t letting the sender tip get as deep into the coolant as much as I think it should. He ordered 2. Lol

 

Oh and one other small detail. The nut that holds the impeller on is a left hand threaded nut. Just a reminder. Lol

 

Replacement back on and all adjustments made. This pump was a little newer design so I had to come up with a1/4 more clearance. No problem.
Now I get to replace one in inventory for the Prefect.
Waiting on fittings and since the Reunion is going on I suspect it will be Monday or Tuesday.
It’s all good.

 

Temp sender bushing/adapter set up was still tall enough to keep temp sender from being deep enough into water to work proper. Gonna tap back right manifold boss to 1/2 NPT -14. Use one fitting. Should set sender end into water deep enough to actually work.
Micks been in the Eastwood catalog again. Wonder if he’s telling me he thinks it’s to heavy.

 

Temp sender back in. Tapped well. Gauge etc all back in the dash.
Always grease tap. Collect the chips.
And vaccum.
Mick ordered a set of the front crimp pliers /already had the side version.