Got a new aftermarket wiring harness for a new project I am wiring. I have a new column without the ignition switch in it. I plan on using a dash mounted ignition switch. The aftermarket wiring has the two GM column plugs prewired. No problem there. Just trying to figure out where the 5 wires go...So far (if I'm wrong let me know) RED to the BAT post on my dash switch....Orange to ACC post on sw......Brown to ground (as I traced it back to the fuse box ground strip)... NOW does the purple wire (that I know ends up going to the S side of the solenoid) go to the ignition post on the dash switch? Then too does the pink wire also go to the ignition post on the switch? (I know this goes thru the resister then goes to the coil) My dash switch only has the 3 posts BAT, IGNITION ,and ACC. and a center post .Last question : Is the center post the ground? Wire plugs picture doesn't show that the black wire going into the black plug is actually spliced into the red so I know that too is a BAT post hookup. So it is only a 5 wire hook-up.
The center post ground doesn't make sense to me. The switch, any part number, paperwork? I would start with an ohm meter. Continuity check the four terminals. That way you'll verify in each key position what terminal(s) get continuity. Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk
brown is usually ACC, other than that it sounds like you have it figured out. Center post is likely the S starter circuit. use an ohm meter to tell. If brown is actually connected to ground in the ground in the harness, I'd be surprised, and also I would not connect it to the ACC terminal in that case.
There's no ground wire on that switch.... Is this a four-position switch? Acc, off, on, start? And checking function with a meter is an excellent idea. 'Off' you should have no continuity between any terminals. 'Acc' position should be only between 'Bat' and 'Acc'. 'On' between 'Bat, 'Ign', and 'Acc'. 'Start' between 'Bat', 'Ign', and 'Start'; 'Acc' should disconnect from the others.
Yep 4 positions..finding out so far Red=BAT.....Orange=ACC....Brown=ACC....pink to coil via resister......Purple to Solenoid "S" terminal...........Looking at the diagram on a simple 55-56 Chevy ignition switch, which this is identical to...Purple runs from the "S" terminal on the solenoid then goes thru a neutral switch and then uses the CENTER post, Pink goes to the IGN Post then to coil via a resister, Red to BAT, Brown and Orange both go to the ACC posts. Make sense?
Orange is normally used for always-on stuff, such as the dome light, cigarette lighter, brake lights, etc. It's not ACC, it's BAT. ACC is stuff that is on when the ignition switch is either in the RUN or ACC positions.
Every GM column switch wiring color code is the same from 69 on is the same except some later models have a couple more wires for added items. That said, I cannot find a wiring diagram to download off the internet to save my old ass.
Never really thought about that - the Acc being off when cranking. To be honest I thought that things going off, like radios, were attributable to current drain, but them being momentarily unpowered makes more sense! That knowledge might help me down the road sometime, thanks! Will be putting my newly acquired crimping knowledge to some use in the meantime. Before that I have to chase down a mysterious hot starting issue, but that's another matter! Chris
Here is what I remember. Red is battery feed to ignition switch Brown is accessory Orange is hot when switch is on Pink is hot when ignition on Purple is solenoid feed Pink is sometimes used to power 'always on' items. I think it depends on how the fuse box is configured.
since the wiring harness has plugs for a GM column mounted ignition switch , i'd pick one up and then compare them. if you look inside the GM switch you can see VERY small markings like BAT , IGN 1, IGN 2, ACC, START etc....then you know for sure
That may work as I have a couple of columns with switches in them.. That would really work if they are labeled. I will give that a try.
Taking the 2 GM factory plugs out and just looking into the male fittings area in the switch I see: I3, G1 ,G2, B1 B2, S ,B3, A and H. That doesn't do much .....Do I have to take the switch apart?
Your current plugs should match this diagram for correct usage, keep in mind this is from the terminal side of plug not the wire side.
Post #5 by Crazy Steve on this 5 year old wiring thread helped me find a wiring mistake I made. The "forum search" sure comes in handy at times. Thanks
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