I got my body back from the sandblaster today. The floor is definitely worse than I thought (but I expected that). Looks like I’m going to replace the full floor including the trunk. A few questions for those that have done this. 1. Dennis carpenter floors any good? Looks like they have both (saves shipping). 2. can I do the front first, then move to the back (or vice versa) for less bracing? 3. how much bracing do I need to do? How do I brace it so that my braces aren’t in the way of dropping the new floor in? 4. how do I ensure the holes like up with the frame when I’m done? Just a bunch of test fitting with the frame before I final weld it? I’ve done plenty of metal replacement on other cars so I get the gist. Just looking for tips on this specific car as it’s my first ford and full floor. Thanks! I’m also probably going to have to do the rear tail pan which I assume I would do last (to keep the structure good while doing floors).
Great start. I would err on the safe side and brace the shit out of it. I have a buddy with a 67 Camaro that was patched up without bracing and it doesn't sit level to this day. Cheap insurance and you get to re-use all that 1x1 for years to come. Win, win!
As BB said, but I will ad, also measure a million times to verify things are square etc. then brace. No point welding a floor into a crooked body.
You can do the front first and then the trunk area. Check out my sedan build below and it shows how I did my full passenger compartment floor and rocker change on my 39 using a bitchin floor kit. Brace the hell out of it. It will move I. Ways you don’t expect. Also, the way the floor assembly goes in is floors under rocker/subrail so keep that in mind. Also look carefully at your subrails. I replaced the subrails all the way back to the rear wheel well on mine at the same time as the floor so I was able to get the floor under the subrail/rocker and mark, drill and line all the mounting holes up before welding it all together
I bought a complete set of Dennis Carpenter floors and rockers when they had a good sale plus free shipping a few years ago. They looked like quality pieces. They are currently stored in the garage attic waiting to be installed. in hindsight there after market floors for less money. I have seen then used on here and someone could tell you about those. I agree that the car should be braced every which way to Sunday before you cut the floor. Some even tack strips between the door and body. I am just wrapping up the wife's new kitchen. As soon as that is done I am going to get busy putting new doors on the garage and insulate the second half so I bring the car home so I can work on it in winter and year round. It currently is stored at my sons place. I saved this page from a Bob Drake online catalogue years ago that may be of some benefit to you. Bob Drake produced a new coupe body and sold all the panels for a coupe. Dennis Carpenter took over the coupe body and sold panels along with Drake. Drake slowly got out of selling floor panels.
First make sure the doors and trunk fit properly now. Personally I’d brace it crossways, then X’s both vertically and horizontally in the door area. Also same thing across the trunk opening. Then you can remove either the front half or rear half and drop the new panel on the frame, then set the body over to verify fit. You can weld through the spotweld holes that you drilled to remove the old floor.
Uggg,! Thanks for bringing back some Ugley Memories. I have done more of that kind of work than I will admit to. There is no one way or step 1-2-3- done system. Add to that I'm a Hunt-n-Pecker on the key board and I really can't tell you everything you need to know. Most guys have good basic Body Shop skills that end up with a good fitting end result. If all you have is some Mig welding info and a general idea where things go you will probably be in over your head trying to get good results. My best advice is Don't start anything until you have all your Body panels fit and gapped the way you want them to be in the end. Things are going to move no matter what and you have to be able to see it when it happens and change them at that time. There is no going back latter and getting things to fit without more cutting of one part or the other. Ask me how I know. My work; Work previously done in a Body Shop where close is good enough. This takes twice as much work to correct than it does to do it right the first time.
I would much rather buy a rusted out hulk needing every patch panel, than a previously “repaired” hulk with fit issues.
you guys ever see east cost rust.that floor is mint compared to what you deal with. i noticed your spare is on the left side so is mine most 40,s on on the right paule bradley makes the best floor he is hard to get but if you are lucky you might luck out. ps i would repair that floor it aint that bad & remember it gets covered when done
Your floors are a LOT better than mine were. I used United Pacific panels and was very impressed with the quality, fit and finish. Here's a link to the full story on the floor repair. There's another on the same page covering the replacement of the under decklid panel, in case you need to do that as well. Good luck!
@IronTrap has a great video on YouTube replacing the floors in the forgotten 39’ hotrod project I would assume it would be mostly the same procedure wise
There’s a whole playlist of each car on their channel on you tube. I tried to link the playlist but it would t work. This is what you’re hunting for. Around episode 7 they brace the body and around episode 20-21 they replace the floors
All really good info. Thanks everyone. I think I’m going to buy the floors now and either do them now or phase two of my project (next year). I’ve never driven one of these cars so I may just run with what I have for now so I can keep on track of driving this thing by fall. I’m anxious to get to building my engine but I don’t want to do any engine work until my “dirty work” is done so I keep my garage clean. I’m kind of already planning to take the whole thing apart again after I drive it for a few months to fine tune the stance (and maybe even go to air ride) so I may just do the floors then. I dont know…maybe I’ll do trunk now and the rest later. Maybe I’ll do the trunk and patch the front floor. The front floor is really only bad by the drivers side foot area. Do they make partial patch panels for these?
I think you're on to something that really makes sense. What you have laid out in this post is a major time and cost adventure. Worse if you're not a skilled craftsman without a well outfitted shop. Add to that, if most of your prior automotive exposure is VW centered you may not take well to the shock of the total Old Car adventure. Much easier to sell off a running driving project car no matter what condition it's in as long as it hasn't had a bunch of poor skilled work done all over it.
Not worried about the skill or the shop and tools (I always am open to buying tools) so if I come across something that will make the job more efficient and done more correctly I usually just buy what I need. It’s really just the time and wanting to drive this car at some point this year! I already have it in my mind I’ll be taking it all apart again a year or two after I finish it so I may just wait till then. Not worried about selling or resale value but I AM worried about it being done right. If I do it now, chances are I’m more likely to rush it more than if I sit on it for a year or two and drive it for a bit and then tackle it once I’m mentally ready. I was not really expecting as much rust as I found in the main floor (I knew the trunk was trashed). and my posts come off like I’m a newb. I ask questions moreso to hear other experiences and Learn what mistakes others before me have made or tips they may have. I am a newb to fords but not to metal work and other restorations. I’ve done partial floors, rockers, complete rear corners etc. always learning and pushing my own skills further and further than the last.
As you have prior experience in what you are describing, you likely know this already. As alchemy posted above, door fitment and bracing are critical. At a shop I once worked for, they replaced the floor in a '37 sedan. Because it was easier to climb in and out of the car the doors were removed during the floor work. When it came to my stall to reassemble the painted car, Gadzooks! the right side aperture was too small and the door wouldn't close.
when you look inside my '40 coupe, all you see is frame rails & shop floor. I WISH mine was that good.
Wow! I've had many surprises when looking at a car that was supposed to be done right. I'm with you. A car that is rusty, but unmolested, is much more desirable.
As above. Panels and bodies at swap meets that are in primer are always a red flag for me. In the raw please, at least that way you know what you are really getting.
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