It's getting harder and harder to get conventional 10W40 or any conventional oil in my area. The parts store has shelves and shelves of synthetic oil, but only one brand, Fram, of non synthetic oil. The counter man said he wouldn't be surprised if it was totally phased out in four or five years. I'm thinking of getting a few cases and keep it in stock.
Pure dino oil is getting harder to find, but blends are common and are mostly non synthetic. I do agree it's not worth worrying about, except for break in oil. BTW, most synthetics are just better refined dino oil. Pure made by chemistry synthetic oil is the most expensive, vs the std full synthetic.
I use it in my O.T. 'DDE' cars, my F100 gets Valvoline Racing. (Old habits are hard to break) Haven't ever temp-tested it, so maybe I'll end up changing to Syn. (Thanks, @Jack E/NJ!)
Aren't all oils refined & blended from "natural" base material ? I don't believe its possible to make something from nothing !?
I run synthetic in everything, little diesel tractor, Zturn mower, Tundra, Mopar van, 56Dodge, 97 F150 and others. Different viscosity for different uses. I got started using it in small engines. A lot of newer OHV aircooled engines experience valve sticking. It's been blamed mostly on stem/guide buildup due to oil breakdown at higher temps. I've run Briggs, Kohler and Kawasaki for years with no problems. I attribute that to good quality synthetic and regular changes. So I just adopted it for everything. May not help but it hasn't hurt.
The Mobil 1 in my race car engine is the same price as the Lucas Hod Rod oil in my 292 Y. There are a few that have found the lifters in a Y block may not rotate properly using Synthetic oil so I don’t take the chance.
Seems like anymore most of your conventional to a degree is a blend. Some brands don't even offer conventional anymore or changed their conventional brand to a blend listing. But really what's not to like aside from the price. Generally longer service intervals, more additives/detergents, higher heat resistance, better deposit prevention, etc.
Ran either for a few years, but as of next year it will be 40 years running strictly Mobil 1 . Many miles playing beat the clock
There is a reason motors last twice as long as they did 50 years ago. Professional racers were early adopters of synthetic oil for good reason.
The biggest reason motors last longer today besides better metallurgy &machining tolerances is computer controlled Electronic Fuel Injection . I'd guess oil technology is waaaay down the list !
I used straight 30W in my air compressor and my gas powered 8hp generator as recommended. Many times tried to start the compressor and blew electric breaker. Also tried to start the generator on a cold morning and couldn't pull the recoil start. Changed both to oW30 synthetic and both start fine.
Nope. All production engines specify synthetic oil.... because it is the best lubricant for the job... but its your choce.
If your local parts house doesn't stock what you're after, order whatever oil you want online and have it shipped directly to you. Conventional motor oil isn't going away anytime soon, it's just not as popular as synthetic so some stores don't want to fill valuable shelf space with something that doesn't sell at the same rate as something that does.
Why...would ANYONE...use old fashioned non-synthetic oil in the first place. Other than the cost, there is...no...reason to use a non-synthetic. Engine, transmission or gear oil. Mike
I have found through real personal experience that this statement is true! But for those who want something with high zinc and phosphorus levels, Rotella is available everywhere and cheap. I use the T4 version semi synth.
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