I’m getting ready to install a 4- link in my 36 Plymouth, and remove the Dana 44 jag setup. I’m a lot more clear on how to set it up, after reading this forum. Thanks for the links. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Asking about pinion angle on the HAMB is like asking 100 people which ice cream flavor they like. Not to mention the people who want to explain their opinion, yet they don't even know how to spell, or write a complete sentence.
Go to You Tube. Go to IMCA modified rear suspension movement camera. You’ll never worry about a degree or to on your car again.
True, the angle changes a bunch, but these IMCA guys are more concerned with "planting" the rear end for traction than they are about a little drivetrain vibration.
I think the confusion comes from what the basis of the angle is. It's never "true zero" or dead level as a baseline. The angle is always determined as the difference of the parts. 1 high, 1 low, front down, back up, never from ZERO. Most engines are in at 4° so if the center is 'X' hgt, and the pinion center is 'Y' hgt, you get some pinion angle. IT'S ALWAYS THE DIFFERENCE, NEVER FROM ZERO. Sorry for the yelling, fk'n noisy in here...
Some threads just will not die a natural death, surely this one should, but I cannot resist. One simple rule, bend both u-joints the same number of degrees. Now, I did not read every word, but, other than proper needle bearing lub / wear consistency, I did not see any mention of the 2nd reason why you want the 2 joints bent the same number of degrees. The first being the lub/wear issue. Anyone ? The off road guys know this 2nd reason well as they often deal with joints bent to extreme angles. This second reason has to do with why you also want the 2 joints to be phased together. Still got you stumped ? Constant velocity. At rpm, with the front joint bent some degrees, the drive shaft will speed up / slow down every 1/4 revolution. With the rear joint bent the same degrees AND with the 2 joints phased together, the rear joint cancels out the 1/4 revolution velocity changes introduced by the front joint. If this is not done, the driveline will "rumble" at some speed, more noticeable at interstate+ speeds. To see this velocity change in the garage, take 2 socket driver extensions and a matching u-joint from the tool box, connect them with the joint in the middle, bend them to 30 degrees or so and rotate the assembly in your hands and notice the "swing" that happens every 1/4 revolution. There you have it, now this thread must die.
would someone show proper phasing please. An engine that the carb is level the output shaft of the transmission will be 3* down and the pinion will be 3* up. Terry aka dirt t
"Driving yokes'' at each end must be phased 90 degrees apart. JW PS; i agree this thread is well past it's use by date.... but there will be another to come some to start it all over again.
It doesn't need to die, it just needs to be found by the new kid who's trying to learn. So what, us old tired fucks have fun with it, but the info being archived? Oh the horrors...
So.....I'm rebuilding my car in my avatar after a wreck a couple years back and stuck a deuce frame under it this time. 30" rear tires. Driveshaft will be running uphill from the trans output shaft to the 9" Ford 3rd member yoke with an inch & a half difference in height from center of output shaft on tranny to center of rear pinion over the span of the driveshaft length of 37 inches. Measurements taken with chassis at ride height and on roller plates on the floor, minus weight of the body and radiator. Engine down angle is 4 degrees, measured at the top horizontal plane of the cylinder heads and at crank pulley face. Pinion angle is tilted up 2 degrees measured at the face of the rear yoke in its vertical position. Coil over rear suspension with 4 bar parallel links and panhard bar. My questions are; with this type of rear suspension will there be much or any rotation movement under load to the rear end? And...given this scenario and set of angles, do I need to worry about or change anything? I'm hoping that this isnt anything to be concerned with, but just wanna make sure before road miles are started again. It is a purpose built road car for long distance runs. Thanks for any advice.
If the rear four bars are of equal length there will be no axle rotation to speak of but the pinion angle must be set at 4 degrees up. JW
4° does not equal 2° Stand back and look at it,,, Chassis is probably 3-4 up to the rear Engine 4* down to the rear Engine to firewall has something close to 8° included. (Do you like that?) Set the engine to zero, set pinion to zero and drive shaft up towards the rear.
Thanks 31Vicky...my floor substructure is pretty tight above the tranny so very little to no spare room to move on the 4 * down tranny angle...so are ya saying I need to bring the pinion up to 4* to match 4* tranny down angle? In other words, make them on the same plane horizontally?
They need to be parallel or you will have vibration issues. A giant pet peeve of mine is a no hood car with a chassis rake and an engine down to rear. It’s obvious some people don’t care that it looks like the engine is falling out. At least like it’s diving into the fire wall. I actually hate it so bad it’s worth cutting the floor out or redoing the motor Mounts
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