Technical TKX whining noise, hard engagement/grinding in 4th

Ouch, but mystery solved. Praying with you here! Will probably be OK.

I have a tko600 about to be brought into use, ram htob too. Don't recall having to remove that part. Hopefully a different design. I have had mine runing without problem, and have driven a few yards in 1st and reverse too. Will be running properly in a few days. Fingers crossed!

Chris

 

Education is an expensive bitch isn't it. I don't think install and pray is your best, or long run, cheapest option. Plus it will be hard to just enjoy the car because every time you hear a noise you are going to pucker. With the amount of stuff you showed us that came out of the trans when you drained it, there has to be a lot more hiding in in nooks and crannies like gear/bearing/shaft interfaces, synchronizers, bearings, and shift shafts.
Although it would be a major delay, you could pay someone to go through the trans (especially if special tools are required) or do it yourself.
Get the manual and a note pad. Study the manual until you are comfortable with it and understand the process and the how and why each step is done when it is done. Also watch enough U Tube videos until you know who knows what they are talking about and who is blowing smoke.
Best of luck with it.

 

Well, the TKX is a front-loading design and 'they' claim because of that it's easier to work on. You can download the manual... I expect you'll be buying some expensive parts for repair. Good luck!

 

I have no fear but I believe you might be safer to send the trans to someone who specializes in tremecs and have them clean it and replace all that was damaged. If you had exp., I wouldn't be suggesting that. I wonder if every bearing in the trans hasn't been compromised by debris? Good luck with your project but caution would be wise.

 

If I have to rebuild it no matter what, I figure I might as well take the couple hours to put it back in the truck and see what happens.

I've flushed it twice until no more shavings got out (matter of fact, there were none after draining the oil), and stuck a borescope in there to double check. Ran it through the gears on the bench while turning the input shaft a few revolutions.

I agree that it's "risky", but push comes to shove it looks like I can do the job myself (I have the tools, and read the rebuild manual).

Will update with the results of my gamble!

 

I had identical experience, exact same results. Missed swapping that race, chewed up that snout. Had to replace it, much more careful on second reassembly, is working now. I could criticize Ram Clutch right now, but this unit is a replacement for a McCleod hyd throwout bearing that was even WORSE designed.

 

I still take full responsibility, but given that the people those parts are marketed towards tend to do custom builds, there's no way to know everything about every other new part on the market. One line in the RAM instructions would have prevented all that in my case. Sorry, I'm salty because I spent so much money on a brand new transmission.

 

I'm sticking with mechanical linkage on mine.....

 

Yes I agree, the Ram instructions SHOULD have included that race, the fact that we both made the same mistake is bad juju on Ram Clutches, folks should AVOID them in the future

 

I've been building Chevy powered cars with manual transmissions since the early '60s and never have built one without a mechanical clutch linkage. I don't see the need for the hydraulic clutch release system. Mechanical is so simple and easy to setup and adjust. Plus it's traditional, LOL

 

Well folks, after cleaning the transmission the best I could, switching to a Tilton bearing with the original bearing retainer (and race and shims...) I'm happy to report that it now works!

No grinding, all 5 forward gears and reverse are present.

 

Ram and Howe have the best trouble free hydraulic TO bearing. I agree McCleod are the worst. Always leaked

 

Hope everything is good ............

 

Good to know! Congratulations, or should that be phew?

Chris

 

Good on ya Jimbo. I was pullin' for you. I would have done what you did as well. Two relevant stories -
I pulled apart a T-10 last year and it had a lot of metal on the drain plug and all over the floor of the case but nowhere else. It wasn't in the bearings, it wasn't on the gears, the syncros anywhere. So, without a pump, I think almost all of that stuff headed straight to the bottom and stayed there.
My bro had a flexplate incompatibility issue and it roasted his SBF's thrust bearing surface on the crankshaft. Did a bottom end disassembly and had just the thrust surface on the crank welded/ground, journals polished. Even though everyone would guess the "metal through the motor" would toast all the rod and main bearings, it didn't, they looked fine, no fingernail catchers. Replaced them all anyway and it's been thousands of miles since.

 

I have been following this closely, since a TKX is on my bucket list.
I am curious what bearing they wanted you to use, since all of the ones listed seem to be a failure point?

 

I'm at a point where I stay away from internal hydraulic throwout bearings. If I'm gonna do hydraulic I go external.

 

I would say if you're considering a TKX, stay far away from the hydraulic setups requiring you to remove the bearing retainer.

@34 5W Paul good on you buddy, and yes, I figured I didn't have the money to replace a brand new transmission, so might as well try it!

 

I put a tkx and a customer's Model A that I'm building right now but I've got to blow it apart to finish it hopefully I can remember to check the input shaft and collar