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Technical Chopping 35/36 Roadster Stanchions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by FalconMan, May 25, 2023.

  1. FalconMan
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,406

    FalconMan
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Anyone have experience chopping 35/36 Roadster Windshield Stanchions?

    I have stock pair which I believe are aftermarket cast iron versus Henry Bronze.

    I would ***ume they would have to be cut and brazed ? Where would you make the cut ? Near the top, or several cuts to make the taper look less severe ? Know anyone who 'does' this well ?

    Any help appreciated !
     
  2. tim troutman
    Joined: Aug 6, 2012
    Posts: 1,332

    tim troutman
    Member

    no experience but interested myself I see CW Moss list a 2" chopped frame and maybe Wescott used to sell chopped post & frames I don't know if they are even in business anymore?
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2023
  3. F-head
    Joined: Oct 20, 2007
    Posts: 1,482

    F-head
    Member

    Original Henry posts are actually steel, the bronze ones are repop
     
    Chainsaw chipper likes this.
  4. Deuce Lover
    Joined: Feb 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,209

    Deuce Lover
    Member

    Contact the Kennedy Brothers in Pomona,CA. They did one many yrs ago and chopped the irons as well.They are on Instagram also.I think the originals are forged .
     
  5. 20230527_194631.jpg
    This is a br*** one I cast up (I think I used "gunmetal", as used in valve bodies"), I cut it around the 15-1/2" mark, then pinned it and brazed it. I did the same with a cast iron one I made, except that one I had arc welded by a mate. I ground the welds down, and ended up painting them. I took 4" out. At the 15-1/2" mark, they are fairly parallel.
    20201218_005802 (2).jpg
     
  6. IMO, do your chop where there is the least amount of taper. This will give you the least amount of blending to do.
     
  7. FalconMan
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,406

    FalconMan
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Thanks for all the comments. I thought the bronze were original.... thanks for correcting me on that.

    Do you know if it is easier/better to weld aftermarket bronze or original iron ?
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  8. FalconMan
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,406

    FalconMan
    Member
    from Minnesota

    If they are really forged, that would make them much easier to weld vs cast ??
     
  9. F-head
    Joined: Oct 20, 2007
    Posts: 1,482

    F-head
    Member

    I’ve chopped original 34’s and 36’s
    I chop em just under the top knuckle, if you take the material out up there you don’t need to worry about the mismatch in the taper
    I tig them together with silicon bronze
    The chromer had no problem with them
     
  10. F-head
    Joined: Oct 20, 2007
    Posts: 1,482

    F-head
    Member

    Here’s a pair I chopped
    One of these was drilled for a spotlight and I repaired that with a steel plug and silicon bronze AE7AB7FF-7053-4690-B04C-E0B2DFE7805B.png 667B73B2-642B-4668-8F23-BDFBAF8DA312.png
     
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  11. X38
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 17,498

    X38
    Member

    Guy on RAC Garage on YouTube shows how he chopped some repro ones.
     
  12. FalconMan
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,406

    FalconMan
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Very nice ! Are those Bronze or steel ?
     
  13. F-head
    Joined: Oct 20, 2007
    Posts: 1,482

    F-head
    Member

    Henry steel ones
     
  14. uncle buck
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 2,100

    uncle buck
    Member


    I have a pair of your old reproductions I bought from you several years ago and they are Bronze, and as said above the originals are steel. This is why you do them like @F-head said to. Also, to add to the reproduction post info, there were also reproduction posts made and sold by Pat Mooney in the 80’s that were some kind of mystery zinc die cast.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 28, 2023
  15. FalconMan
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,406

    FalconMan
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Thanks for the photos guys .... this helps !
     
  16. Karl Wescott
    Joined: Aug 29, 2007
    Posts: 96

    Karl Wescott
    Member

    Originals were either iron or steel. 1935 and 1936 used the same basic shape, but the windwing mount bosses and side curtain snap stud holes and wiper tube clamp holes (1936 only) were different.
    Ford Parts Obsolete, Long Beach made the zinc alloy (kirksite) reproduction posts, stock height. They usually had the bosses for 1935 windwings, but not drilled. The mounting holes were 5/8-NC where originals were 5/8-NF.
    Pat Mooney made bronze posts. Not sure of details.
    We (Wescotts) made (make) bronze repros. Stock height or Chop, mount holes drilled and tapped 5/8-NF, 1935 flavor or 1936 flavor or no windwing flavor. Currently out of chopped ones and 1936 stock ones but am working to make more in the future.
     
  17. uncle buck
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 2,100

    uncle buck
    Member

    Interesting Karl. I had bought 2 sets of Pat Mooney’s posts in the early 80’s. One set was 36 and chrome and the other 35 and bare so I could chop them. Both sets were some kind of zinc alloy that I got. I don’t know what alloy it was but I bailed on chopping the 35’s after testing them with a tig welder and getting all kinds of popping and splatter.
     

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