I have a 283 (rebuilt) and a T-10 That I want to put into a 34 Ford pickup. Problem the clutch fork is hitting the center cross member. I am not about to cut the cross member so do any of the Chevy T-10 guys/gals know of a short clutch arm. I do not want to reinvent the wheel and do not want a power glide. This is to get it on the road other engines are being built besides it is traditional.
Not sure what the clutch fork has to do with a T-10. There are different GM clutch forks...maybe a picture of what you are dealing with would help.
The picture of my s**** coupe is the only one I have ever been able to post! If you have the answer on different clutch forks that would be shorter it help a lot.
Yep, it's a clutch/bellhousing/fork related issue, not any particular transmission. And please people, don't suggest a hydraulic clutch! To help us help you, photos please. Well, there's the first hydraulic suggestion!
There is a fork with a forward bend at the end that attaches to the pushrod, maybe it will help? If you just google "chevy clutch fork" you'll find several varieties. Note that if you make the fork shorter, then whatever is pushing against it, will be too close to the block/bellhousing to work.
here is the tutorial on how to post pictures. it is super easy https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-post-images-on-a-thread.922350/
pretty tough for us to tell you about a shorter one when we can't see what you have, there is a Chevy 2 bell housing that has the fork coming out at the 7 O'clock position if you think that would help.
Mark The 64-67 Chevy II belhousings are the most expensive of the lot, crazy $$$. And if you think those are pricy, check out a Lakewood ****tershield for Chevy II.
Folks are getting to where the usual quick HAMB response just isn't fast enough. Maybe we need to hire some crystal ball diviners so we can proactively answer questions that folks ain't even asked yet.
For your review because Kojak loves you baby. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/clutch-forks/make/chevrolet/engine-size/5-7l-350
It was a question about if there is a shorter clutch fork? Is it so hard to answer yes or no? What is a picture going to show? It is either yes or no. The T-10 is 1962 the clutch is for a 1962 they came in Impala and Corvette so I will specify 1962 Corvette! I have been on here for a while bought and sold some stuff reasonable and only got burned one time. When I ask a simple question that all the experts know the answer just post it and stop spending band width.
How can we possibly know if one is shorter if we do not know what you have? Is it the one where the rod from the z bar pushes into a rounded pocket? Is it the one that takes a pin and cotter pin thru a hole on the fork? How much too long is the one you have? How much interference is there? How much shorter does it need to be?
If you have a means to cut steel, then you can make a fork shorter. Is that the simple answer you want?
Anyways, this is what a fork for a 62 Corvette looks like when the clutch pedal is not pressed. There's a little bit of room for it to be shorter, but not much, as the pushrod will run into the bellhousing. This is what it looks like when the pedal is pressed. The fork moves back and out a ways... Since we can't see where your crossmember is in relation to the bellhousing, we can't tell you whether or not you can shorten the fork enough to make it clear. That's why you need to post a picture, or tell us what fork you have now, or something. It would be nice if we could magically see what you can see, but we can't.
I was thinking about the Monza bellhousing.... https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/cable-pull-monza-bellhousing.228655/
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