Going for a period correct 1940's hot rod look under the hood and want get my fuel lines and carb linkage looking like it would have back in the day. Have lots of questions: 0. To preserve originality, trying to avoid drilling new holes, maybe I'll have to give that up? 1. The carb-to-carb linkage looks correct to me but I don't know. 2. The genuine Stromberg dual carb fuel line is pretty but is it period-correct? 3. Was rubber fuel hose used back in the day? 4. Were custom hard-lines used back in the day? If so would anyone have used stainless? 5. I know the cheese grater hose clamps aren't correct and am looking for something better. 6. Pretty sure the Holley fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge aren't correct but not sure what to do about it. Given all the challenges with getting fuel pressure right, I'd like to have a regulator and gauge between the fuel pump and the carb. 7. The Summit Racing fuel filter between the pump and the regulator probably isn't period-correct, what is? 8. Going to install a longer throttle shaft on the rear carb so I can install a hand throttle fitting. 9. Wiper motor vacuum source is capped because I have a leak somewhere in the wiper vacuum circuit 10 In the second picture, I think the choke linkage is correct. 11. Also in the second picture, the throttle rod from the firewall works great but doesn't look quite right. Challenge is that the original rod for a single carb is too long.
Why do you need a fuel pressure regulator for a mechinical pump? If you feel you need it, move it to a unseen location. I've seen transparent fuel lines vs hard lines.
Looks like too many gas lines,clean that up,hide the reg> if it was me. The gas link from firewall to carb=Angle is bad,,too low at firewall making it come very close to crossing center at carb end!! That as is,will make carp open too fast at very little gas peddal. So fix that. So you can control a smooth take off. Yes,keeping under 3 PSI on fuel is a very good thing
I agree with Dana. Did you raise the engine higher than the stock position? Your pedal linkage is setting way too low compared to the carbs. With my high Thickstun intake the linkage doesn’t take that steep angle.
While you did a nice job of fuel line building...none...of those parts were available...back in the day ! And I seriously doubt that VERY few guys had the money for tube benders, not even counting the Scotchbrite you used as a final cleanup. As far as the regulator, again...NOT back as far as you seem to desire. Nice work, but far from..."back in the day" work. Mike
Great eye! The pedal linkage position has always bothered me. The pedal linkage is stock and the engine height is stock. It's the hi-rise manifold and the Strombergs that aren't stock. The Stromberg ball is about 1-1/2" higher than the Holley. If I connected to the forward carb instead of the rear carb, that would decrease the angle. The rest is the manifold height. How did you end up with yours so level? I can't tell exactly what's going on with your linkage. Looks like your carbs are connected on the same side as the pedal linkage and that the rod isn't connected directly to the carb but to something that hangs lower than the ball on the carb.
Here’s how I do it regarding fuel line and fittings. These are the banjo fittings from Stromberg. Clamps are “cheese grater”. I’ve never had to use a pressure regulator on a Flathead with a mechanical pump and Strombergs.
Here’s a better angle. I’m running the holleys with the original ball connection. Both carbs are connected with one linkage and the ball connection is midway between. That changed the angle some. The only drawback on this setup is it needs an extra spring to return it to idle effectively. But it works. You may consider extending your original accelerator linkage arm to level it? Although that may change the throw distance and create another problem.
That fuel line setup is neat and simple, really like it. It would also be easy enough to add a fuel filter in the middle. I've heard that there's quite a bit of variability of mechanical fuel pump pressure because of diaphragm spring variations and push rod lengths but I could get over that. The main reason for the regulator and gauge is my electric priming pump. Don't use the electric pump for driving except for the one time the mechanical pump failed. Could move it to the ch***is out of sight but don't know if the mechanical pump could pull through the regulator. Don't know if an over-pressure from the priming pump would damage the float valves either. Great picture, double end carb linkage. I suppose that would work on Strombergs too. Probably fix the angle even better though if I just connected to the front carb. Have a spare rod I could cut to length.
For a traditional looking fuel regulator/fuel filter you can get a malp***i unit off of eBay. I like to use doubled up spring clip style hose clamps on fuel lines, very clean looking and doubling them up adds a little peace of mind.
I like the "Corbin" clamps. They have an inner and outer band that puts more even clamping force on the hose and use a fine thread machine screw and nut. You should be able to get at most parts stores, I just picked up some from Advance. The Corbins are stock on a lot of fuel injected cars because of higher fuel pressure. They have much better holding power and don't cut into the hose like the slots in those worm gear clamps do. I had an upper rad hose failure because of damage from a worm gear clamp and haven't used one since.
The odd angle of throttle linkage can be easy to repair. You will need a mild steel rod of the same diameter as you are currently using but much longer. Thread one end and attach your pivot ball. Bend the rod up at a 45° angle ND reverse the 45° angle to come back level with the throttle lever on the carb, cut and thread the other pivot allow some extra thread on both ends to allow fine adjustment. Back in the early years, clear plastic fuel hose was popular. I DO NOT recommend that since the gasoline tends to dry put the plastic and promote cracks and possible fires. Run a two outlet fuel block, and run modern rubber fuel hose attached by barb fittings and the aforementioned clamps. By doing this, the engine can rock slightly and not jerk the fuel Ines and still look somewhat period correct. I really don't think a fuel pressure regulator or gauge is necessary with stock Ford pump. At full flow, the put out 3 to 3 1/2 pounds of pressure max. If you were running a high volume pump, than yes you would need a regulator and gauge to keep from blowing fuel past the early needle and seats.
As others have said, you don’t need a regulator, so you can put a hard line from pump to carbs, brazing the joints may be traditional, (I don’t know). Summit fuel filter could be placed in ch***is rails or replaced with a gl*** type one. The Malp***i is a great unit, but expensive if just using it as a filter only, there are tractor type gl*** ones that are cheaper and possibly easier to source or speedway motors has one. You can also run a hard line to fuel pump and have a short rubber connection out of sight. If you really want to keep electric fuel pump, you could decommission the manual one, (and hide the regulator), but that’s not traditional…… gl*** fuel filter here: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Gl***-Bowl-Fuel-Filter,273099.html .
I ran an electric pump that pushed through a gutted stocker with the regulator mounted under the floor. It worked well. and was invisible.
The Malp***i Filter King is, like, a hundred bucks or so. Not really expensive in the flathead world, seems to me. Love mine, really a great unit--looks right and works right. I'm often asked what it is and where I got it.
I started to post. My post and critique was way too hard. Let me say this, some things look wrong and others could be made cleaner. Keep at it you'll get there.
I agree, but my comment was referring to when he doesn’t need a regulator. Though definitely one of the best regulators out there and when considering it has a filter also and looks good, yes - reasonably priced. I actually bought one, just under $200 NZ here, but it is ‘clocked’ wrong for my situation and I can’t get the top off, so ironically it may just end up later as filter only on the flathead.
OP needs to see more pictures of the rod from the accelerator to the carbs......not the other side with the fuel lines me tinks. That steep angle is just all worng. I don't know....maybe a bell crank arrangement ?! I do know what I did on my "M-word" carb linkage that really dressed it up......I got some pieces of chrome plated copper water line from Home Depot. The kind that supplies water under the sink.....and cut it just shorter than the carb linkage. Slip the chrome tubing onto the linkage and screw the ends back on ! It gives the linkage a little beefier (Is dat a word?!) look and its shiney !! 6sally6
Gentlemen, thanks for you comments so far. You've provided lots of great actionable information and ideas for me to work on. What I have actually works pretty good but it does look like c**p. Definitely not "back in the day" engineering. I'll keep working and post pics. Most seem to think the pressure regulator needs to go. It's really only needed for the priming pump. Maybe I won't damage the float valves without it. Nobody, including me, likes the throttle linkage. I'll work on that. Other things too. Too many to list. A guy in my EFV8 club has a similar car with a hi-rise manifold. I'll look closer to see what he did. Really appreciate all the comments; the pics of alternatives are especially useful.
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