Technical new 28' roadster owners

good end result, the smiles are the important part !
You can always go back to the tri power in the future…….

welcome to the HAMB.
When it comes to hot rod information, this forum probably has the most expertise and experience worldwide.
Most on here know their stuff, - you will learn a lot, if you choose too…….

 

^^^wise words right there^^^
Doesn't hurt to have a thick skin & an open mind

 

as said, those carbs don’t like more than 3lbs fuel pressure, - I find that 2&1/2 is okay
Blown power valves from a back fire or incorrect power valves, - or incorrect washer under power valve, - or float levels too high could all contribute to the ‘puking’ that you mention.

 

The body measures as such. Firewall to door is 14", doors are 26 1/4" and from back of door to rear tire is 9 1/2".

 

Just take your car to a car show and there has to be another '32 roadster in attendance and compare the two. Your car is shortened in the quarter panel no doubt about it.

 

The way it sits now we like it! There are only a few things I previously mentioned I will do over the winter and that's about it other than enjoy it. Thanks for the input and clarification.

 

Absolutely love the shortened and narrowed body, hope you enjoy it as much as I would. To make sure it's steel, see if a magnet sticks to the body.

 

Ok now my next main issue to take care of is the brake lights. The tail lights work but no brake lights. There is a plastic switch at the pedal base. The wires are all good. Problem is I can't tell if the push ****on is touching the pedal bracket. Very cramped and small area under there. What should I be looking for?

 

a picture is worth a thousand words……….
Generally they are set up so that as the brake pedal moves down, the switch comes ‘on’, ie the power goes to the lights.
You may also have a hydraulic/pressure switch on the master cylinder and that is different again.
Do a search on this forum for both.
Handy tip : when doing a search use google and the word hamb in your search……….

 

verify this first, or it maybe just a faulty switch ,
or,
90% of electrical problems are caused by a bad earth……..

 

So the switch is held "pushed in" with pedal in relaxed or the "non-depressed" position & is let off the switch, turning on the brake lights when the pedal pushed.??

 

Look at a side picture of a 32 roadster, particularly the distance between the back of the door and the front of the wheel well. Then look at the OP's photos. His is MUCH shorter.

 

First of all, start with the basics. Make sure the bulb is not faulty. Test if there is power to the brake light socket. Test to make sure it is grounded. Fix a ground issue if there is one.
If no power at the light, work your way forward until you find power.

It may be a faulty switch. It may be a bad mechanical contact between the pedal and the switch. Or, as mentioned, it may be a hydraulic switch (which are always faulty.)

You have to go through all these steps.

And yes, all questions should include pictures.

 

yes, that’s how mine work.

 

I noticed that the rear quarter’s appear to not have the swage by the deck lid.
Was this perhaps a cabriolet ?

 

Decklid was filled over the top of the bead.

 

So last night I simply threaded the switch in a lil more and after byp***ing the ballast resistor I now have brake lights. All is good.

 

Beat me to it. Kind of a pet peeve of mine.

 

If that’s a steel body, and you paid Model A price, you won the lottery. Cool car either way.

 

Interesting, the ballast resistor is for the ignition system and has nothing to do with the brake light. What is it that you byp***ed? Possibly a resistor for using 6 volt accessories on 12 volt?

 

I like it!! You will have a great time with your roadster!