Thank you again for allowing me to play a part in the build My friend. Really happy with how it turned out.
Neal... Those castings are superb. (Is it a type of 'Investment casting'? Can't be sand cast) Very interested in obtaining one for my '27 T tub on Deuce rails... Phenonomen work on the chop! Rudy is a metal genius...
The castings are indeed sand castings, Class 30 Gray Iron. Part of what we have been working on with the foundry was surface finish, and they finally got that dialed in. The metal work on the car is the work of Josh Carrillo, Carrillo Customs in Los Osos, CA
Wow great work all round! Coupe is looking grouse! The steering boxes? What are they? A copy or a hybrid? Tell us more!
I started modifying and converting 37-39 Hudson and Nash steering boxes for 32-34 Fords about 15 years ago. As the supply of original boxes got tighter, I started looking into manufacturing my own version about 10 years ago. We cast the first batch about 5 years ago and have been doing small batches since. They are based off of the 37-39 Nash, but with either a 32 Ford or 33-34 Ford style flange cast in place. These boxes are a Gemmer rolling sector design, with an 18:1 ratio. They are built to order in small batches, usually filling orders from the back log.
Haven't been able to afford one of the new boxes but I did have Neal rebuild and convert an original Hudson box to fit a 32 pickup I built. Worked great.
I wasn't ignoring your question, was just waiting to be able to show the answer. I picked up this funky old chrome steering box from a friend It was a 37-39 Ford cross steer box thot someone had neatly pruned the mounting bracket off and converted it to side steer. They had kept the Ford internals, which points the pitman arm up, but I had a plan for that. I machined off their frame flange and fit a 3-bolt 32 style flange in it's place I also drilled the top of the case for a fill plug, and welded up the original fill plug in the side cover
I was making up steering shafts for a few other steering boxes today, so added one in for myself With the shaft done, i was able to assemble the box. I had saved out a nice set of 16:1 internals from a 39 Nash box, so used that, along with new bearings, bushings, gaskets, seals, etc. So that knocks one more project off the list
But I did get a few more parts for the 5w. I lightened a 35-40 flywheel (from 38lbs to 27lbs) and had it surfaced and balanced. Also got the pan and water pumps back from the chrome shop. Getting closer to being able to button up the engine.
Here are some before and during pics of the flywheel lightening. I will say,10-11 lbs of chips makes a mess of a lathe and the area around it!
The flywheel and pressure plate should be back from the chrome shop in a few weeks...haha...not really. But I did get all my rear axle parts gathered, cleaned and ready. I really do not enjoy cleaning up the insides of parts after plating. I probably had 4 hours in the banjo and bells, cleaning threads and rust and flakey chrome from the insides. The end game with chrome is great, but getting there isn't for the faint of heart. I dropped them off with a friend yesterday so he can assemble and adjust. Hope to have that back in a few weeks.
I wouldn't be excited about assembling the chrome diff either, for fear of damaging it! It will look amazing afterwards & worth the effort!
Messed with rear fender and bumper placement yesterday. I took some inspiration from the Lloyd Bakan coupe on the rear fender treatment, then tweaked my worst pair of original rear bumper brackets to mock up the rear bumper. I ended up moving the bumper up about 2-1/4" and closer by about 2-1/2".
Thank you. I think so...getting rid of the tall roof and long fenders cleaned up the look. More the subtle vibe I am going after.
As was done on the Bakan coupe, fenders are rotated forward, and about 2" sectioned off at the running board.
Been following this project from start and I must say you're doing a great job, everything is just spot on in my opinion.
The Jalopy Journal
