Do you agree that the frame is a 26? I have the spring specs from GM. The 26 data says rear springs are 54" eye to eye and are 1.75" wide. Roadster rear springs are 6 leaves. Front springs are 36" eye to eye, 1.75 wide and have 7 leaves. I have a trailer with a 20s oldsmobile or Chevy front end and another trailer with what looks like Chevy rear springs (fella I got it from said they were 27 Chevy) but I need to measure to be sure. I am hoping I can use the shackles as well. I do have a question about engine mounting. The partial chassis I had was a 28? Ton truck cut off and made into a doodle bug. The front engine mount is a cross member that goes across the width of the frame and bolts to the pan rail on each side of the engine. (The pan rail had broken on one side from the stress) Someone commented that the frame I just got had the transmission mount stirrups. The doodlebug did not have those, so I don't have that cross member. Do I need it? Would you all use the truck front mount crossmember (if it fits) or the car three point mounts? I have a front single stud mount, just not sure what kind of hardware it uses (spring? Rubber pad?). So once I clean things up, I will have a 28 engine and 3 speed trans and pedals, a set of 27 axles ( I was told they are 27 but don't know for sure) a '24 radiator, I have both a '24 and a '25/'26 steel radiator shell (I was told the radiator will work with either shell), 26 sedan steering gear, '28 truck steering gear (in weather 50+ years) '25/'26 headlights, (I think I have a headlight bar somewhere) '26 front and rear fenders, front apron, hood, sedan cowl with firewall, 26? Open car windshield. Of course the windshield won't fit the sedan cowl, it will need some reworking. Anyone see any red flags so far? Sorry for the long post.
The chevy 4 three bolt mount was solid. Your front mount bolt went through the cross member with a washer and castellated nut and carter pin. The two rear mounts were also solid with same mounting. Myself, I would use the 26 car frame basically as is for engine, trans., and radiator. Especially if you have a 26 steel shell. If you notice your frame has the hand crank going through the cross member. The 27 and 28 the crank hole is above the cross member. The 26 car frame has the lowest engine placement of the three. I have circled the radiator mounting holes in red. The engine mounting in light blue. The trans. mount in pea grean. Another pic of parts. Upper right is the cast iron rear motor mount / starter mount / front of bell housing. All three years will fit the same (plus 25) If you do not have this, look for a 28 (maybe 27 also) They have a window with pointer in the front right side for seeing timing marks on the fly wheel. This mounts directly to the back of the engine with bolts and lock washers. Yust above the lavender circle you can see the hole for the rear motor mount. The lavender circles show how the lower half mounts to the cast top. (if the bottom was rotated 180 degrees. The cast top and pressed steel bottom end up being flush with the back. Then the pressed steel rear bell housing mounts to that with bolts, locks, and nuts. The pressed steel crossmember circled in yellow is the transmission mount. it bolts to the back of the rear bell housing using shoulder bolts to keep them aligned. The cross member is flipped over (180 degrees) and is mounted. The original trans fits between the flanges and is bolted through the front of the bell housing. Now since the engine in a 26 sets lower than a 28, there are at east 2 different crossmembers. (not sure if 27 is different yet) Here again, in my opinion, I would use this cross member on a speedster with a hopped up engine. The ends of the cross member is bolted to the frame stirrups with bolts, flats, locks, and nuts. Also there is a shim that goes in each end to take up the gap. (gap to help make assembly and dis. easier) I will have to look for some of mine, but I think that they are of a horseshoe shape. (starters fom all three years will work) (25?) Thanks for the info on springs! I really did not want to go outside until it gets below 100 degrees. I have to figure out what you need for info, and do not need. Does this help?
Hood he That info is helpful. Are all of the front motor mounts the same? I think The front mount I have is off of a 28. I don't have a rear transmission crossmember. There is a local guy that has some Chevy stuff, I will see if he has one. Are all of the transmission rear crossmembers the same, or is 26 different? I am thinking about cleaning all the parts, put a coat of paint on them the way they are and see if I can assemble the chassis and work out brake rods etc. That way I will get a better idea of what I need and be looking for it. The guy I got stuff from this week probably had a crossmember but I didn't think or know to ask. As many 26-28 Chevys were made, there has to be some parts here local. Here are some pics of my steering column. Are all the columns the same length?
1. You have a mid to late 26 frame 2. I can confirm your spring sizes, except that I thought that I came up with 52 in the back. will recheck. front shakles about 2 1/4 eye to eye, rear about 3 1/4 3. the 26 trans cross member is different height than 28 (meaning the trans setts lower in frame) do not know about 27, will have to do some (a lot of black berry cutting to check one)(I will need to find a 26 member that I can get some good measurements on) 4. steering columns will all fit. difference is spark and throttle location 25 just below the steering wheel similar to model T, early 26 just above the dash, late 26/27/28 on top of steering wheel. 27/28 have a lock in the column at dash. 27 has aluminum rap in the center like late 26, 28 the rap is larger with a ridge running around it. You have a VERY nice steering wheel! 5. 26/27/28 front motor mounts all the same. 25 had a separate cast steel cross member for the front mount. (as far as I know was used one year only)
About red flags- The enclosed cowl is going to be some work. The radiator for a 25 has the lower spud/water pump inlet on the left side think 24 is same, 26 and up spud/water pump infeed is on the right side, will take some thinking.
Thanks, More good info. I measured springs last night. The front springs I have match the spec. The rear springs I have measured 52, but I didn't measure along the length, I measured the shortest distance across the arch, which is not the right way to do it according to the specs. I think l they will probably work. The fella I got the trailer from told me they were Chevy springs, the shackles look right. Sounds like my doodlebug was a 25 due to the front crossmember mount. The engine was a 28 so I assumed the doodlebug was based on a 28. I didn't even consider the radiator spouts. The radiator I have has the outlet on the driver's side. I have two water pumps, see pics. Wondering if I can change the clock position of the one with the short pipe and make it work. I have no idea if the radiator I have is any good so I may be hunting another one anyway. I wonder if I could swap the bottom tank for a later one. I was really happy to get such a nice steering column/wheel. I did not get a pitman arm, I need to check the one on the doodlebug and see if it will work. The drag link I have is very rusty, but if the balls are the same size as Model A, I will make one. I would like to use my roadster/touring windshield, so I will probably be making or scrounging another cowl. I know the Chevys had wood sills and superstructure, does anyone know if the windshield mounts on an open car were reinforced with irons? Or was it all wood behind the sheetmetal?. Thanks
Looking at some pics of original cars, my 24-25 radiator is not going to work with a 26 and later generator unless I can change the bottom outlet. Looks like that is why they made the change.
The open car windshield did have a metal bracket each side that attached to the "A" pillar. I will get you some pics of this. Id did get a dim. for the trans cross member this morning, but it was so hard to get to that i did not get a good pic of the other locating hole for clarity. Did not realize this until loaded on computer also have another cross member within 6" that I could not see in the dark. (think it is a 28, will get it out tomorrow and take same dim.)
This is the pic for one advertised on ebay. He lists it for 25-28. Which I don't think is correct. Is there an easy way to tell what year is what on these?
This is what I measured for a 26 (cl of top mount to the frame hole to the cl of the hole just off of the trans ) I believe the one shown is a 28
Here is the 26 bad pic I took. This is my first 26 and it is still mounted to the bell and trans. also right side up.
Got pics of cowl/windshield/ "A" pillar/ dash brackets. These will fit 25 and 26 and possibly 23* and 24* open cowls. (* was 27 28)
Thanks for the pics of the brackets. With regards to the transmission crossmember. As that bolts between the trans and bell housing, does the 26 and later trans have a slightly longer input shaft? Or is it enough to matter (maybe 3/16?). I looked at my windshield assembly yesterday. I didn't think to take a pic, however it was never drilled for a windshield wiper, just found that interesting. Does anyone know what years the roadster windshield assemblies will interchange?
Cross member is closer to 1/8 thick, don't know of change in trans input shaft. I believe that a windshield wiper was a dealer or owner addition. Found in the 28 parts book that the 23/24* used the same top frame as the 25. Did not confirm about uprights. (did not find the brackets for any year- parts book is very hard to find what you looking for plus, if the paint color changed so did the part number and what it was used on) * changed post on bracket fitting years possible.
Look what you started! I found this locally in Utah that came with a 28 headed engine that needs assembly. Everything was rebuilt to the 9s by the former engineer who has passed. It odd because I had 3 Chevy wire wheels and a Franklin front axle in my shop before I saw the add. I am thinking early 30s Speedster or late 30s Roadster Lakester.
Hay! The more the Marier! The picture gets grainy before I can zoom in enough, but I'm guessing that you have a very good start to a 27 speedster! (With rims and tires even!) Be safe Have fun!
I will send some better shots. I'm parting with the non "Go-Job" parts if anyone needs them. I do not need the spare tire mount, running board mounts, and wheel, rims and tires, if anyone needs the for their restoration projects, I have them on eBay. I'm looking to Hop Up the motor up a bit, especially the oiling system.
Man that is a clean chassis you found! From the eBay pictures I think I would seriously think about running those wheels & maybe tires. In the other hand you may make enough to pay for a lot of the project.
I aways loved early 30s chevy wires with cycle tires. I will probably use 32 Ford wheel in back. I like the look of 19" and 18" wheels together. Paul the previous owner of the project put a lot of work putting together than set of disk wheels. I am sure they will find a nice home and help another guy's project to be finished. up.
@tractorguy. How is your problem with parts coming? I am too far away to help except by pictures and descriptions and such. PM me if I can help. And we're still praying for the other problem! (I wonder if spraying a few items around Farmall Red would help!)
I like them too. Here is my set of 19". I will probably just run the wires on the front with 15" or 16" six lug solids on the back.
Thanks a bunch Grumpy for your concern and request for update. All the drugs are kicking my butt.....all three list "fatigue" as the number one symptom !! My 77yr. old body cannot take much more fatigue ! Had major scan last week and there is some shrinkage in tumors. I have radiation oncologist update tomorrow and medical oncologist next week. We will be hopefully coming up with a plan to hit things from two fronts. Heat here in Wisconsin and Iowa has also limited my task of getting chassis, motors and parts out for some good pictures. Hope to make more progress in next 30 days, then start some ads. As to tractors.......only four left......two Case 530's that are Desert Sunset and bright orange......one Empire (Willys drivetrain) painted dark blue as wrong color.....should be red like Farmall......lastly a 1950's era dk green German Holder articulated 4wd diesel small orchard tractor.......with the remains of a 8in. diameter tree that was growing up thru the steering wheel and chained sawed off for the farmer's estate sale ! I guess you could say I have a diverse range of colors. Oh.....almost forgot.....four nice green and yellow John Deere 318 lawn and garden tractors that I mow with. Really great traditional machines from late 1980-early 1990. Lastly......my trusty 1953 Willys CJ3B Jeep.
Thanks for the update @tractorguy! Glad to hear about the progress on the tumors, hopefully you can get them in a crossfire. I understand about the no energy drugs. I'm taking some that wiped me out climbing up and down twice on the tractor, (broke and pierced body parts ) had to give up farming. (Also affected brain power-like none!) Sounds like a very good variety of rolling stock. The paint something Farmall Red was for/if you were a total JD guy, to get your ire up so to speak! Keep us informed!
I would run those beautiful wires all the way around. And if you change your mind on wires, I'm in the nest state over! I have three perfect 19s but now I need to decide on hunting down a fourth 19 or two 17s.
I drove all day yesterday and came home with a very rusty roadster cowl 25?, dashboard, and internal brackets for the windshield posts. I don't think the cowl is useable as it is so rusty it is like tissue paper but there is enough there for a pattern. I am not a pro with sheet metal but I might try to make one if I can't find a useable one. I was surprised how simple the cowl and firewall are. However in the mean time a person I had talked to before got back with me and has a partial 26 touring body and some other parts that I will go look at. One good score from yesterday's excursion was a restorable drag link and pitman arm that I needed. I am getting close to having enough parts to build a running chassis. Not sure what I am gonna do about hardware as I hate to see modern bolts on an antique car. I guess I could buy new bolts and grind off the head markings, but they still won't look right. To revisit the 25 radiator with the 28 engine, I believe one of my water pumps is a 25. Why can't I just mount the belt driven 28 style generator ( I don't have a generator yet anyway) on the passenger side? I appreciate all you all's comments and advice, it helps fuel the enthusiasm. In the next day or so, I will try to pile up my recent acquisitions and share some more pictures.
Craig, I was within a couple hundred miles of you two weeks ago on my way to Texas. There may be more wheels in this area. Dan, There is a cowl or two around here too. Don't know if they are for sale. I could check. Tractorguy, Hang in there. These docs are way better than just a couple of years ago!
I appreciate the offer to check on cowls. I am afraid the shipping would be pretty steep. Does anyone know if the 25, 26, and 27 bodies are the same? The cowl I picked up is supposed to be a '25. The firewall is a little different than the one I have from a 26 sedan, there is a big hole where a horn mounted on the one that is supposed to be a '25. I haven't checked to see if they have the same hood profile.
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