I like the tubular shock links and run them on my Cabby and Vicky with Houdaille shocks....I dropped the front end and cut the tubular links down (shorten) so the travel geometry on the arm stays the same. It also means to cut the inner sleeve down the same length as the amount you take out of the tube. Bert's in Denver has repop Houdialle shocks that I have mostly been satisfied with....but they are pricy....but what isn't. Snyders and probably Berts has the rubber repop that goes over the ball and into the metal boots for the shock links too....Make sure you preload the spring enough that you don't loose a link after reinstallation... The intake you commented on is a air horn adapter off of a MJ Willys intake....modified to fit the 97 intake and a K&N air filter....it gives enough filter area so the carb doesn't run rich and keeps the filter out of the hood.... You are doing stellar...looking good....carry on
When you drop off your parts at the powder coater be sure to look at how his completed parts have come out. I checked out one near you, if I remember correctly, at a small airport. I wouldn't have that guy do my patio furniture. His completed parts looked terrible (dust?). If I can remember the one I finally used (about 25 years ago) and was happy with I will post it. Charlie Stephens
What an awesome car to start a build with man looking real good! here’s a idea what 7.50/5.50 looks like with a little kick in the frame and a 32 axle for what it’s worth
Just found your thread, I really like what you're doing. Reminds me of my pre-war banger build although mine was a Sedan. Keep it up and have fun. Mine...
Thanks winduptoy - appreciate the feedback on the links and shocks. Charlie Stephens - I was able to find a shop relatively nearby who did a good job and pricing was somewhat reasonable. Happy to share info via PM if anyone is looking for a powder coater in Los Angeles area. Thanks ModelAMitch. Thanks 4Barrel - appreciate the pic. 1stGrumpy - I love the look of your sedan - a lot of my inspiration and plan came from reviewing your build thread and posts. Finally got a little bit of work in this weekend - steering box back in the car - leak free so far....meshing the two tooth gear properly was a bit more finicky than I anticipated.
Regarding steering box leaks, do you have one of these? https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=977901&cat=41748
Thanks Ducbsa - I did have one of those in the steering box - the leak seemed to be due to improper gasket(s) being used between the two housings and at the top of the needle bearings where the two tooth shaft exits the housing.
Got a little bit done today. Pedals off (a bit more pulling and twisting required than I expected) and the steering column / wheel back on.
Front end tear down complete - plan is to go w 32 axle and reverse eye spring with a couple leaves removed
Finally got some time to get the front end mocked up and test fit. Everything went together nicely so now it is off to powder coat later this week.
Picked everything up from powder coater and finally got some time to start putting the front end back together
Nice work, looking great! P.S. You may have your king pins swapped backwards (LR/RL), I think they are supposed to have more of the top pointing towards the front than the rear so that the brake levers run in line with the axle and not at an angle.
Thanks Lahti - I was originally planning to run 32 kingpins and 32 brake actuators, but as I went to install the actuators, I realized that was not going to work as the brake rod / lever would interfere with the drag link and shock mount. Switched over today to Model A kingpins and Model A actuators today and with a bit of filing on the perch mount and the king pin side of the actuator I was able to make everything fit together. Will post a few pix over next couple of days.
Glad it didn't cause you much heartburn! I too am enjoying finding out what parts work and don't work on my 31 roadster... I went with a 1934 axle, 32 perches, Model A wishbone, and eventually settled on Model A kingpins and actuators since my original pins were all wore out. Your build is looking great, I'm enjoying your thread. You started with a good one!
So I got some time to put the front end back together and on the ground w the refurbed wheels and tires to see what sort of front end stance I was looking at. It looks pretty good in my view but the shackles are bottoming out against the axle (see pic). I had removed three leaves from the spring and moved them to the bottom but am now thinking those need to go back in to provide better rigidity and lift the shackles. Can anyone give me some advice on whether that should fix the problem before I start tearing everything back apart? Thanks!
I don't know very much about your setup, but do I see a 1/4" spacer between the bottom of the spring perch and the lower fork of the wishbone? If I see it right, moving the spacer to above the axle should get you spring/axle clearance. The only other possible problem would be shackles too long, and I doubt that's the case. Lynn BTW....does someone do surgery in your shop when you're not working on your car? Man, that's clean!
Thanks lake_harley - moving the spacer to the top would definitely get me the clearance I would need at the axle / shackle but I am concerned that I might then create an issue with the alignment of the brake actuator to the kingpin / perch. I think I will try adding the leaves back to the spring first and if that doesn't solve it I will move to the spacer location. Regarding my shop, it isn't always that clean but I am a bit anal about keeping my workspace clean and organized - the mess just throws me off my game....
Tore the spring back down yesterday, put all the leaves back to original and got everything back together - unfortunately, I still have a clearance issue - am using the spring that came with the car and a reverse eye bottom leaf and shackles from Old Yankee Speed Co. The car had sat for a very long time before it came to me - I guess it is possible that the leaves have relaxed too much and need to be replaced? I am running a 32 axle w 32 perches, 32 spindles, Model A kingpins, Model A brake actuators, and a Model A wishbone. Can't really see how it could be anything other than the spring that is the issue... After deciding I needed a break from the front end issues, I threw the rear wheels and rubber on to see how everything was looking - am pretty happy with it but will eventually need to get the back down a little more. Also tackled removing the manifolds and studs - thankfully managed to get them all out without breaking any off in the block....
Interesting that you are having the clearance issue... I'm running a nearly identical setup as you and when I checked my mock up this afternoon I've got ok clearance: My axle, perches, and wishbone are all original parts. My main spring leaf is a 34-36 new old stock unit that I reversed myself, the rest of my spring pack minus the second leaf from the NORS spring is going to be the original Model A stuff. I recall reading a while back that there are two different length model a main leafs? Maybe a shorter one would bring the shackles in and up some?
Ordered up a new reverse eye spring pack from Roadster Supply and installed it today - needed to use a couple of leaves from the old spring pack as a spacer since the Roadster Supply spring is shorter than the original. Tie rod and drag link back in place with adequate clearance all around. Also got the exhaust and intake manifold installed. Couldn't resist putting the Stromberg 81 in place although I forgot to order intake manifold studs so permanent installation will have to wait a little while....
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