Technical Advice on Wiring Looms, specifically universal 12v packages

Tools, my friend, tools:

https://www.wirecare.com/interest/a...nfluencers/inn-5pk-or-f6-install-tools-5-pack

 

don't forget you can get heat shrink in 3/4 inch bore
344-01900 LVR-19.1/9.5-PVC-BK | HellermannTyton Heat Shrink Tubing, Black 19mm Sleeve Dia. x 5m Length 2:1 Ratio, LVR Series | RS (rs-online.com)
then step it down to 1/2'' pull two out and slip it inside

i don't know why they dont simply use the wire that that use on the cnc machines that are all black but have a didgit 1 to 100 printed on the sleeve
every 4 inches

so the next one I do I am going to solder and heat shrink every connection

oh and the other one is, if its body on ch***is and not monocoque
and you are grounding the dials etc at the dash, you need a fat jumper from the body to the frame, you can't just rely on a boltthrough the body.

p.s. when you first buty the wireing kit
familiarise yourself to which circuits are permanent live and those which are switched live.
you will have a fat red one coming in and its on a 'buzz-bar'' if you like jumping to other components, of which you need to know if you havn't isolated them and are connecting the battery.

 

All the Rebel wires are labeled. I used an 8 circuit. I'll do my own sound system wiring. I also added interior lights, switch operated, no door switches. I'll **** a hot wire from somewhere, no biggie.

 

If you build it, smoke will come

 

Solder is not recommended for the exact same reason that solid wire is not used. Vibration can crack soldered connections. Heat shrink is excellent

 

I went with Kwik Wire since I could see their instructions up front. They were top notch all the way. I wasn't able to see the Rebel instructions at the time, so I rolled the dice and won.

 

Many may not be able to sleep at night once they learn how much commercial aviation and military air craft are above their heads with crimped and solder-sleeve connections. The only thing we soldered at work was wiring for satellites. This was based on heritage, it it worked in 1964, it will work in 2023.

I have a stash of out-of-date solder sleeves they used to chuck out at work. All good NAS and MS items. Look for NAS 1744 or MS81353 pieces (these are available with a drain wire). TE Connectivity makes dome good ones, Digikey carries them. Avoid the offshore ones.

Crimp connections require a quality crimp tool. I picked up a nice ratchet style at Advance Auto for around $38 a few years back.

 

I also have a "thing" against those yellow, blue and red plastic crimp coverings. Nails on a chalkboard. I slide them off, slide on shrink tube, do a good crimp and shrink it. For those who don't know there's a sealing version shrink as well. I won't bore y'all with details but it's said to never seal electrics with RTV.

 

I will add one thing to add to any wiring job. Make sure it is serviceable!
Can the cluster and accessory gauges be removed and laid over to test?
Can the connector be moved to be backprobed for testing?
Can you get your hand(s) in to disconnect?
Will the connector require depinning to be fit through the hole?
Will you be able to clean the area around it once it's complete without snagging?
Can you check fuses and relays without removing stuff for access, a contortionist and a strong light?

The best wiring job will not need any future work, but what about additions, modifications, paint, upholstery, etc.?
It's also a good idea to consider dirt, water and oil protection, making sure it is not going to be worn by normal operation (underfoot) and do***enting the work for the next guy.

 

I love asphalt coated loom from Brillman. Just like the old days, inexpensive, durable and easy to work with. Looks best with the joints secured with cloth based "tire tape". What the Chevy came with. On earlier cars learning to do a Bell Telephone tie is just too cool.

https://brillman.com/?s=1/2"+asphal...product_category=products-u-wire-loom-conduit

 

Summit makes some that are easy to work with, I bought 2 sizes, 1/4" and 1/2". Half the price of Painless and I have a bunch left over. I found it easy to open and add another wire.

 

I won't claim it's the best...but will say I've now installed, I believe 8 of the EZ wiring kits with success.
Years ago I was at a swap meet and came across a vendor for EZ wiring and bought their kit.
I kind of relate it to the logic of painters...whatever brand you start with, is what typically is what you stay with.
@Crazy Steve has very good insight on why not to use universal wiring kits though, who hopefully chime in with his expertise.

 

I used the Speedway 12 circuit in three of my cars, they worked out well.

 

Go with what you know, which is rarely bad advice. I have yet to do a Rebel, but would consider it. I've heard mainly good things about Speedway wiring kits. The Kwik Wire was a good choice in my Ford.

I took my time with it. I have their instruction book in a 3-ring binder along with my notes and cave sketches.

 

I used a Painless kit because I heard it was idiot proof and I am an idiot. It went well with little frustration.

 

As for disguising it, simple ebay black cloth wiring tape looks reasonably unobtrusive.

 

I bought an EZ Wiring kit years ago when I first started a project. Here it is, almost 8 years later and I am just now digging it out to familiarize myself with it again. I hope it goes in pretty EZ!

 

Thankyou all!!!!

I will almost certainly opt for a Rebel harness, does anyone know if they have a UK distributor?

 

Check with @REBEL43 here on the HAMB

 

as far as making wiring look like it belongs in an old car i use hockey stick tape to wrap the harness under hood

 

I've installed about 6 of the universal wiring harness kits sold on Ebay now. All were 20-21 circuit kits, and most cars ended up with numerous spares for future use. The kits were made for Ford, GM, and Mopar, with instructions on how to change certain areas to customize them to different columns, or dashes.
All of them were simple to install, and took about 10 hrs. total to finish. They work great, and no failures, or issues on my cars, or cars I did for others. The first kit I bought was $85, and today they run around $100-$110 for the same kit.
All of the smaller 8-12 ckt. kits are very basic, and will require the installer to know automotive wiring pretty well, and also require a number of extra parts to be purchased to make the kits complete. In the end you can easily end up back at the $100 price buying headlight switches, high beam switch, connectors, headlight plugs, etc. I think it's better to buy a larger, more complete kit, and not use all the circuits, but have everything you need. Of course you'll still need a turn signal switch regardless if you want to replace yours.
I wrap all my wires that are in the trunk area, or under the hood with black cloth tape. I but it in packs of 6 rolls that are 1" wide, and it's easy to use, and looks good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125360488142?hash=item1d30113ece:g:nHwAAOSwHYlioRvz&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA0OkrwktBNW3ipOxORBhVBgGV1if+2t8vJ04rC+bhmVclJs3/ZfrKDgHRAug6PdN33Onpe7iSnluXBTqlznVtZD7fXDQqtkiJzn9wcD+RzwcILH6wbTLFWYOHZ+82MeNaBh3r7ZNQMYY3rTi+fEnXd1G4R7E2sYNcIkJwebv/aH7Xtw0COztWNQ2GmPGj53y6lTF4w62IsUh3uCKeIG5ang4eFWEsSt+vstAihy6LKKP4eT8eazIfUJ0kJiR6+LQOFhdByP7WkIJFxmlgfu+Bx94=|tkp:Bk9SR-y0lZW4Yg

 

I used KwikWire on my 49 Buick. All wires labeled every foot, hooked it up and everything worked. Still working 7 years later.

 

It's not bad at all even without tools. Thumb into the fold, wires in the other hand and push.

I used the same stuff but from Amazon and Mcmaster Carr (high temp). There's all different materials, plastic, cloth, lined.... it's best to use something that can be opened back up easily for additions, changes or repairs (unlike tape). If you really don't like the seam seen, then get a bigger I.D then you need, so it loops around a little more and face the seam backwards.

 

The ones Speedway Motors sells work well, all wires are marked and instructions are good.

 

Soldered joints also increase resistance, and if someone wants a better connection they should use crimp connectors, not soldered.

 

That's not actually true. The resistance difference between soldered connections and a properly done crimp is too small to measure with anything other than super-sensitive lab equipment. But the caution about poor vibration resistance with soldered connections is all too true. And in the event you do have a problem, solder connections are much more likely to fail as they don't withstand high heat well.

Technical - Crimping Tutorial | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)

More than most want to know about selecting and installing a new harness...
Wiring 101 | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)
Keep in mind that in most cases, if the vendor 'recommends' extra-cost relay kits for things like headlights and whatnot, that's to correct inadequacies in the basic harness.

 

Mr. Bandit. Hear your pain. Use a plastic rod bent an ground to make a flat hook. Save hugging hands