Chev 292 Engine water in the oil

I am a caretaker/restorer of a 1928 Elco flat top 50 motoryacht, which was repowered with 292's over 20 years ago. Perfect engine for this boat, not a speedster, and drop dead reliable. They have Hurth transmissions.

There is some indication of water in the oil. No oil from around the head, some leakage from the bottom of the bell housing. Are there any common issues I should look for, like a cracked head or the like? This is a raw water cooled engine, so there is less pressure on the cooling side than a car. Any insight? I thought if a head crack was more common, I could take that off without having to take the engine out of the boat, which is quite a process, given they are under the main salon floor. Thanks in advance

 

Those engines because of the long stroke (and cylinder sleeve length) were prone to core shift during the casting process. Since it is raw water cooled, there is no rust inhibitor present like antifreeze. A sleeve has probably cracked at the bottom from being thinned out. The later blocks (1980 or so up) were cast in Mexico and much thicker with less core shift. They are good engines regardless of year and I plan to put one in my second coupe.

 

Thanks much.

 

Any chance it is condensation due to running cold and/or poor crankcase ventilation?

 

Does the engine have a road draft tube or a PCV system?, if it has a road draft tube remember the combustion process creates carbon monoxide and water vapor which can condense in a cold engine, if it has a PCV system if the PCV valve is stuck open it will suck humid air into the crankcase with the same result.

 

Peter, does your engine have the "integral" head with intake and ex manifolds cast as part of the head? If so, those heads are prone to cracking under the valve cover near the center...right below the rocker arms.

 

Not likely, these engines have been in there 20 years, no issue. This is water.

 

I am going down there in the morning, I will take a look.

 

It isn't a car, but here is what those 292's are in. Thanks for the replies, very helpful.

 

They were good for cracking in the lifter gallery. Pull the flat cover and pressure test it.

 

Fresh or salt water cooled? Salt water is murder on SWC engines in general.

 

Seeing as he’s from Ontario, I would bet on the boat being in fresh water. Probably the Great Lakes.

 

I’m leaning with the condensation crowd. Don’t dismiss these suggestions. I live in California and purchased a 1963 Suburban that had traces of water in the oil. Pop the oil cap open on the old six...WATER. No cracks -no head gasket issues. Change the oil, week later...WATER. The simple fix I came up with was to makeshift a simple OIL VAPER TUBE...Right to the air cleaner. Same crap all the 70’s engines have. Give it a whirl. Give the water a place to go...

 

In going back to your original wording, I assume you have two engines? Did this start with both at the same time? If so, how is the raw water being directed to the engines? A raw water pump? Does that pump have oil fed bearings?

 

Gee, while I wish the guy some good luck with his problem, having just discussed the fact that my Street Rod Nationals posts/pictures were just deleted because 2 of them were deemed inappropriate content for the site I have to wonder how a boat is appropriate.

 

It's a traditional boat...

 

Boat is traditional and passes the age test and doesn't have oversize ugly ass billet wheels. It'ds also an engine question for an engine that fits within HAMB guidelines the first couple of years being fully Hamb legit.
As far as water in the oil goes, did you or who ever prepped it for winter drain the block by pulling the plug or if it has a petcock opening the petcock for the water jacket? All of the water doesn't drain out when you shut the engine off.

 

Not knowing about boat engines, but along the lines of a possible condensation problem, I’d assume a restrictor would be used in place of a thermostat?
Also, is the water temperature monitored some way?

 

Water from the bell housing..... Freeze plug at the back of the block inside the bell housing has corroded.

If the water in oil is a condensation problem the inside of the valve cover will be covered in a thick creamy oil coating.

 

Yeah, the old steel freeze plug trick strikes again. I always go with brass ones in any that I replace... in anything.

 

Guess you are seeing something in the Hamb rules that I'm not seeing.

Customs says,"The Traditional Custom forum is reserved for threads and posts pertaining to period correct customs only."

Traditional says,"The Traditional Hot Rod forum is reserved for threads and posts pertaining to period correct hot rods only."

There are even pictures of what is considered acceptable, and I did not see one traditional boat pictured.....

Also, when Ryan did agree to "give it a try" allowing tools to become part of the discussion, it was with the caveat that the tools must be something that are applicable to working on old cars.

As you said, there is nothing wrong with someone asking engine questions, and I hope you guys can help him find an answer............but I disagree that the Hamb is for pictures of boats no matter how old they are.

The "traditional boat" argument opens the Hamb to all kinds of boats. By that definition I could post pictures of a local historic steamboat known as the Belle of Louisville. Traditional cars have been powered by steam engines and its a traditional boat. Maybe the big paddle wheel out back might not be acceptable though.

So, just havin a little fun here by pointing out that while discussion of an engine might be acceptable, I think you are wrong about posting pictures of boats.

@Moriarity said "the key to the whole thing is we need to keep the off topic stuff off the site, once the floodgates are opened this place would turn into a street rod site and nobody wants that..."