Projects LA HOT RODS Get's A 37 Pontiac Gasser Build

White Walls = late 50's, early 60's. Black Walls = late 60's, early 70's. Whatever look you're going for, they are both cool

 

I like the way you guys think. Was going to have them mounted today but the garage door spring broke so now I in the garage door business.

 

It's always something

 

and wasn’t the white wall slick period over by the time Cragar SS wheels arrived on the scene?

 

Blackwalls for sure

 

I like the black walls better also.

 

Black walls it is.

 

So trying the figure a cut line for tire clearance so it doesn't look like a total hack job.
See the red line, what's your input?
Thanks James.

 

Just look on here for pictures of Don Nowells Chevy or check out this one.... Nice tire fit.

 

Yes don Nowell’s 37 Chevy was and is and should be the standard every one needs to use for a g***er it is perfect in every way

 

The wheel open redesign looks good. Now be a Man and reroll the lip like factory and redefine the radius end of the lower rear body line!! lol Larry

 

Yeah James just cut it up already I’d have already cut it up and had the thing rolling by now lol

 

I think that you are on the right track. Your lines look good to me.

 

I thought I would cut a pie out and save the rolled lip and work it back out and add what small parts would be needed. Going to work on something to get a more accurate line, thinking of something attached to the old wheel to use as a big comp***.

 

When Dad and I re-cut the wheel arches on my '56(originally was done without much concern for accuracy), we made a sort of comp*** out of some s**** metal we had around to mark a nice smooth, consistent radius.

 

Actually, James that is exactly what I would do too. Cut back about an inch from the factory lip and fit it to the new radius line, but weld and metal finish the seam. And if a little BALLAST WEIGHT is needed that's okay.  lol Larry

 

You think an inch, I was thinking less than that. Still working on a marking fixture.

 

Whatever works for you, I like a little mor meet to use swivel head vice grips to position the seam and to get a dolly behind to adjust the seam. It also allows me to adjust the fit with the shrinker/stretcher or run it through the panishing hammer. or even the English wheel. you can do it, I have faith. your one of the few projects going on here. keep up the good work, Larry

 

So I made a holder for a marker to comp*** out a circle.




I'm a little stumped. Think I need an aspirin.

 

It's looking like I need to lower the ride height so I can have a round wheel opening.

 

I hear what your saying. I was thinking it didn't make any difference how or where my marker was on the axle as long as it didn't move it would still make a circle. I can say I have been trying to make it tight to start, sure would help me ease into it.

 

I am rotating the axle and the fixture moves with it.

 

If this helps, I tack welded a lug not to the tube. I then tighten the lug nut, next I slid my eye bolt with a hose clamp welded to and tightened it up to hold the marker holder, then just turned the brake drum. Never touched the fixture again.

 

Kinda awkward but it's the same. I can see it when I set the wheel and tire up next to it.

 

You had it with the squiggled out line.

 

You may be right.

 

I would drop the rear a bit and put the tire next to the fender and then start drawing a line,otherwise it isnt synettrical? The rear of the car will bounce some when it is loaded,it would look best if it was a "honed" out version of the factory wheel well,if you cut some off each end it would look kind of wonky,at least to me anyway. harvy

 

One aid I have been using is this hoop I rolled out during my comp/ coupe project using the same tires.

Guess the hard part for me is trying to see a round opening.

 

I think your over thinking it James. Just make sure your fixture is at top dead center and set your marker at the point you want to make your cut from the wheel lip. I was talking an inch but sounds like you were thinking just above the point where the lip rolls up. Then rotate the axle, as long as the fixture doesn't move the line will be parallel to the axle center. I would the cut along the line leaving the upper section intact. Then m***age the lip over to the cut line, clamp it in place and mount the tire, then you can adjust the lip accordingly and scribe the area to be remove and trim it to fit and **** weld it together. Rolling the tire up next to the car I think is giving you an optical illusion. Its only metal, you got this. Larry

 

Larry, hold my beer.