Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical spot weld removal tool

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1930artdeco, Aug 12, 2023.

  1. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 696

    1930artdeco
    Member
    from Lynden, Wa

    OK, I am moving onto the next phase of getting my 57 ford wagon back on the road-floor pans! I have a plan and road map of what to do and how to get there. But I have spot welds to remove, so I am looking at some tools: I have watched a few videos and some use just a few drill bits to punch through the welds, other use a spot weld cutting bit to just through just the one panel and then use a chisel to separate the panels. What are the opinions of the those who have done it?

    Thanks,

    Mike
     
  2. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 16,150

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  3. vtx1800
    Joined: Oct 4, 2009
    Posts: 1,911

    vtx1800
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I've used the spot weld cutting tools from harbor freight on my Studebaker, lots of spot welds, they worked OK, not a job I want to do again:(
     
  4. Drilling welds isn’t fun,
    Separating panels without damaging is easier when the weld is all gone.
    About the most I can get out of the best cutters with a good cutting lube is 50 welds.
    you’re going to poke thru and have holes to patch somewhere.
    Now I’ve been hearing the hot ticket is a mini beltsander. Maybe so but I’ve definitely got the wrong belts and the wrong sander because something is wearing out, breaking or flying off.
     
  5. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 696

    1930artdeco
    Member
    from Lynden, Wa

    I found some tools made by BLAIR that are made in the USA, so will look into those. Since I am welding up floor boards I am thinking that I do not want to punch through the rocker just the pan correct?
     
    54reno and Cali4niaCruiser like this.
  6. Wanderlust
    Joined: Oct 27, 2019
    Posts: 1,091

    Wanderlust

    Mostly used a small ball bur in air driven tool, have also drilled them as well. Seems to me, no matter what you use it’s a miserable job and nothing works “good” for every application. Chisel or panel buster takes care of the stubborn ones but also creates distortion that needs to be taken into account and repaired
     
    vtx1800 likes this.
  7. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 3,637

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Plasma cutter, blow thru the Weld on both pieces and viola I have an instant hole in the old panel in the exact same place as the original welds and just weld thru to the new panels.

    Other than that I prefer sharp drill bits, hate those spot weld cutters. Used several different makes and have several still laying in the drawers at work, all they do is collect dust....


    ...
     
    fastcar1953 likes this.
  8. K13
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,741

    K13
    Member

    The Blair cutters work well. Usually when using them if you get them centered on the weld the top panel will pop up slightly once you have cut through.
     
  9. TCTND
    Joined: Dec 27, 2019
    Posts: 764

    TCTND
    Member

    I like the Blair cutters. If you plan to use one of the panels you're separating, cut through that piece. Then you can plug weld through the hole to the new metal and duplicate the original spot weld pretty well.
     
  10. Cali4niaCruiser
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 670

    Cali4niaCruiser
    Member

    The Blair cutters work well, but its pretty easy to break a tooth off. If I'm not trying to save the top panel, I just use a 3" grinding wheel on a die grinder like these https://www.amazon.com/3M-1991-Reinforced-Grinding-Wheels/dp/B0002SRLF2. Grind until you see the outline of the spot weld appear. Usually when you're about to go through the first panel, it will flash blue from heat and being so thin
     
    RodStRace and warhorseracing like this.
  11. HOTRODNORSKIE
    Joined: Nov 29, 2011
    Posts: 657

    HOTRODNORSKIE
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    We use small air belt sanders at work to remove panels just sand the spot weld the use a spot weld chizel to break loose. You can pick up a cheaper model and belts at harbor freight.
     
    Tman, anthony myrick and Algoma56 like this.
  12. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,328

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj

    I've used the regular drill bits, the Blair cutter, and even the solid carbide spot weld drill. But I tried the RotaBroach tool a couple years ago, and it is now the go to tool!
     
  13. dirt car
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,623

    dirt car
    Member
    from nebraska

    Just watched the Japhands/Bennet Kustoms video removing a 29 model 'A' roadster door skin, while I must admit I haven't seen the 2nd. video where the skin is fabbed & installed, I felt it a different approach as most generally the edge is simply ground away then address each spot weld as the remaining surrounding metal is peeled away. In the end the same results but seemed a difficult approach requiring a couple of handmade tools. I can only surmise he wanted the original skin completely intact for dimension reasons.
     
  14. Rand Man
    Joined: Aug 23, 2004
    Posts: 5,409

    Rand Man
    Member

    I don’t know the name-brand, but the one I used years ago looked like a mini hole-saw. Pretty easy to use, sounds like what has already been mentioned.
     
  15. I hear this from a lot of guys,,,
    I just can’t get it to work.
    I’m blaming my equipment so far because I hear so many different people say the same thing that this is the way to go.
    The HF belts don’t last very long doing anything that I’m doing.
     
  16. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 6,062

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Maybe slow your drill speed down ,nothing kills cutting tools like heat .
     
  17. KenC
    Joined: Sep 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,149

    KenC
    Member

    The HF spot weld cutter worked for me. Really slow drill speed and oil to keep it cool did the trick. A really sharp center punch in the spot weld helps locate the little guide pin too.
     
    62rebel, 2OLD2FAST and warbird1 like this.
  18. In_The_Pink
    Joined: Jan 9, 2010
    Posts: 981

    In_The_Pink
    Member

    There is no golden solution IMHO. Try the option suggested above, and use whichever, in whichever combination works best for you.

    In the real world, spotwelds are almost never a perfect circle, and more often oblong, incomplete, and offset, making a circular cutter less than ideal at times. IMHO, the Harbor Freight el cheapo spot weld cutter works fine if you go slowly and use lubrication. A Rotobroach would be ideal if you feel the extra cost is worthwhile. HF has the advantage of easily found replacement blades if you leave near a store, so factor that in too, if you MUST get that floorpan section out TODAY.
     
  19. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,987

    Paul
    Editor

    like most have said there will be a different tool for different situations
    sometimes even a sharp wood chisel works best
     
  20. I use one of these belt sanders almost every day at work. IMO, easier/faster/better than spot weld drills or grinding wheels. I will say that the best belts I've found are the orange Norton belts. Retain abrasive longer, and don't throw chunks of it off like the 3M Cubitron belts do.
     
  21. finn
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,515

    finn
    Member

    I tried the HF spot weld cutter again on my current OT project. It’s still a no go, despite slow drill speeds, lube, etc. I can only get a couple of welds out of each cutter, then teeth break off or round off, rendering the cutter useless.

    Best success is with the Rotabroach, although I have been using a regular drill bit on some. The Rotabroach gives cleaner cuts, though.

    I bought a belt sander and had good luck on the last project, although the cut isn’t round like the Rotabroach. This last batch of belts is garbage, though. I don’t hnow if it’s cheap belts from a bad supplier, or I am using too co**** of a grit. I am throwing more grit than steel, and can only get a couple of welds per belt.
     
  22. warbird1
    Joined: Jan 3, 2015
    Posts: 1,361

    warbird1
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I used the cheepo HF cutter when removing the firewall from my A roadster. It lasted through all the welds on the firewall; but was done for after that. I always center punched the weld, then started a small pilot hole just part way through the weld before using the cutter which helped keep it centered on the weld. As others have said; slow speed and a lot of Rapid Tap did the trick... I got the old firewall out without putting any extra holes in it. However, the replacement had been removed by use of a drill bit cutting completely through. PITA welding up all those holes.
     
    2OLD2FAST likes this.
  23. I’ve cut a bazillion spot welds. Super easy on sheet metal.
    Regular drill bits work. Mini belt sander, cut off wheels…. I like these better than the Blair bits
    IMG_3504.jpeg
    Ive got one of these IMG_3508.jpeg
    But for me, this thin chisel is the best companion tool with whatever you use.
    IMG_3509.jpeg
    I don’t like drilling all the way through cause the easiest welding position is generally from the direction you can remove them.
    The process is simple. Just look at it like you’re “unbolting” the welds.
    The process will use more than just one method. If I’m saving a panel then I use the least destructive method. If the part I’m removing is trash, then the grinders usually are used.
     
    Paul, finn and Ribbedroof like this.
  24. finn
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,515

    finn
    Member

    I forgot to mention that chisel. It’s great, and seems indestructible.

    Easier to control than an air chisel, and I never seem to miss with the hammer and hit my hand. I think mine came from Autobodytoolmart in Illinois.
     
    anthony myrick likes this.
  25. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,639

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    These are what I use. The one on the right was my first one and worked well.
    20230813_180033.jpg
     
  26. Most spot weld cutters make too big of a hole. I prefer bullet point drill bits
     
  27. Most old car spot welds are smaller than new cars.
    8mm and 10mm are the common bit sizes.
    (5/16-3/8ish) for the “end mill”style.
    We were not allowed to use the style that needs a 1/8th hole in the center at work.
    Created more work. We used resistance spot welders and the small center hole would have to be welded. Kinda defeats the purpose of the fancy welder.
    So I just never got used to needing them.
     
    saltflats likes this.
  28. Correct, I should have specified old vs. new
     
    anthony myrick likes this.
  29. HOTRODNORSKIE
    Joined: Nov 29, 2011
    Posts: 657

    HOTRODNORSKIE
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Norton orange belts work the best just dont bear down on it let the sander do the work. The higher grit will give you the best results the 36 grit seams to fly apart then you have nothing I can grind off a panel with about 5 belts,
     
    Tman likes this.
  30. Some panels have 15, some 50, some have 250 spot welds.
     
    deuceman32 likes this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.