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Hot Rods Identify a T-10???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by $100, Aug 10, 2023.

  1. $100
    Joined: Aug 7, 2023
    Posts: 2

    $100

    Hello!

    I got a T-10 Saginaw for $5 and I plan on selling it as is.

    But can anyone help me identify which make/model this was manufactured for?

    Cast Mar 19, 1964

    Thank you in advance!

    PS can a transmission like this be rebuilt at home? Is that worth looking into? I'd love to learn more about doing something like that, for experience...
     

    Attached Files:

    Deuces likes this.
  2. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 6,548

    Fordors
    Member

    IMG_9351.jpeg

    Clean the area where I marked the photo, you will see a W, followed by another letter. The W stands for Warner Gear and the second letter for the month. The numbers are as follows - day of month, year and the shift it was produced.
    I rebuilt the one in my coupe, but that was literally decades ago, gears if needed could be hard to find today. Mine only needed a small parts kit, synchro rings and gaskets. They are not that hard to work on.
     
    Deuces, VANDENPLAS, alanp561 and 2 others like this.
  3. 427 sleeper
    Joined: Mar 8, 2017
    Posts: 3,372

    427 sleeper
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If it was cast in '64, it was sold over the parts counter. GM was full steam ahead on the Muncie's by then. Looks like a wide ratio Chevy unit.
     
    alanp561 likes this.
  4. Black Panther
    Joined: Jan 6, 2010
    Posts: 2,376

    Black Panther
    Member
    from SoCal

    It's not a T10 Saginaw...those are two entirely different transmissions. It's a Borg Warner T10..if its a 1964 trans, it could be out of a Studebaker or something else...
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2023
  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,039

    squirrel
    Member

    it fits a Chevy, or other GM....so that does narrow it down
     
    The Magic Ratchet likes this.
  6. 427 sleeper
    Joined: Mar 8, 2017
    Posts: 3,372

    427 sleeper
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Definately NOT from a Studebaker
     
    Deuces, Desoto291Hemi and alanp561 like this.
  7. Black Panther
    Joined: Jan 6, 2010
    Posts: 2,376

    Black Panther
    Member
    from SoCal

    Oh? How can you tell? I found this on Ebay...looks close. Same case number on the one I'm showing. The extension housing has a different number..but that varies by year. Other sites say T10s were widely used by Studebaker..
    Screenshot_20230810-174411_eBay.jpg
     
  8. 427 sleeper
    Joined: Mar 8, 2017
    Posts: 3,372

    427 sleeper
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The input shaft is TOTALLY wrong for a Stude.
     
  9. Black Panther
    Joined: Jan 6, 2010
    Posts: 2,376

    Black Panther
    Member
    from SoCal

    They use 10 spline inputs..just like GM...the only thing I can see is that the Stude input shaft tip where it goes into the pilot bearing looks longer. Is that what you're talking about? I'm here to learn...not argue. I also try to give info when I can..
     
    427 sleeper likes this.
  10. 427 sleeper
    Joined: Mar 8, 2017
    Posts: 3,372

    427 sleeper
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That's exactly what the difference is. It might be bigger in diameter, too.(The pilot) How's that for info???
     
  11. Black Panther
    Joined: Jan 6, 2010
    Posts: 2,376

    Black Panther
    Member
    from SoCal

    Nice! You finally spilled the beans...lol
     
  12. 427 sleeper
    Joined: Mar 8, 2017
    Posts: 3,372

    427 sleeper
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I didn't know that I had to give a blow by blow of the difference's. If you look at them side by side, the difference is obvious. Even if they're not side by side, the Stude input stick's out like a sore thumb compared to what we're used to looking at.
     
    lumpy 63 likes this.
  13. $100
    Joined: Aug 7, 2023
    Posts: 2

    $100

    Ah, thanks - it says WD2443...

    Good to know it's not for a studebaker!

    I'll sell it as potentially GM

    If I take it apart, how do I diagnose whether a gear needs to be replaced? Just visual inspection?
    Is there any way to test if it's good without having to put it in a car?



    Thank you everybody!
     
  14. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,039

    squirrel
    Member

    Visual inspection will tell you a lot if you know what to look for. Usually worn synchronizers cause problems, but judging if the wear will or will not cause rough shifting takes some experience. And part of the synchronizers is the small teeth on each gear, that mesh with the synchro sleeve. The main gear teeth usually aren't the problem.
     
  15. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 9,059

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    ...or it could be from a Buick. I had a '65 Skylark 300/4 speed car that came with a T-10.
     
  16. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 9,059

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    Yeah, my cousin once bought a T10 at a swap meet for cheap without paying much attention to the input shaft, only to find out after the fact that it was from a Studebaker; however, it all worked out when he sold it to a Studebaker guy for a decent profit.
     
  17. ssaza25
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 2,245

    ssaza25
    Member
    from arizona

    Same here, bought one thinking it was a chevy, turned out as a Studebaker- Still have it, anyone needing ine?
     
    Boggus Deal likes this.
  18. PackardV8
    Joined: Jun 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,326

    PackardV8
    Member

    The '57-'65 T10s were OEM in Chevy, Pontiac, Ford, Mopar, Studebaker, Shelby Cobra, AMC, et al.

    Big block and small block Fords had different input shafts.
    Studebaker used both the Chevrolet and Ford bolt patterns and close and wide ratio ge****ts.

    There are six different input shafts, three different bolt patterns, four different tailshaft housings and three different gear ratio sets.

    During the mid-'60s, when GM was developing the Saginaw and Muncie, Ford was developing the Top Loader and Mopar was developing the A833, there was not enough of the new design production to go around, so some cars were built with the T10s, some got the new proprietary trannies.

    That's the easy part; when the Super T10 comes in too many variations to list.

    jack vines
     
    Boggus Deal likes this.
  19. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 4,132

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Can you just change the input shaft to GM style ?
     
  20. studebakerjoe
    Joined: Jul 7, 2015
    Posts: 1,187

    studebakerjoe
    Member

    @ssaza25 too bad you're all the way in Arizona.
     
  21. ssaza25
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 2,245

    ssaza25
    Member
    from arizona

    Shipping would be a deal killer.
     
  22. lumpy 63
    Joined: Aug 2, 2010
    Posts: 3,381

    lumpy 63
    Member

    Ok I'm gunna be the old guy who say's " GET OFF MY LAWN!" We have a new guy , no introduction , wanting to know what something is and what its worth ...
     
    Hollywood-East, 19Eddy30, X38 and 2 others like this.
  23. X38
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 17,498

    X38
    Member

    I hope everyone gets their cut on the profit.
     
    lumpy 63 and 19Eddy30 like this.
  24. Russ B
    Joined: Jun 13, 2010
    Posts: 1,613

    Russ B
    Member

    Around 1966, I bought a Studebaker T-10. It fit my ‘57 with small journal 327 just fine with only turning down the diameter of the input shaft holder, that carried the throw out bearing. It is so long ago, that I might have replaced the input shaft for a Chevy piece. Regardless, it was not a difficult job for a twenty year old kid. Hurst had a shifter for use with the T-10 in a 55-57 Chevy.
     
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  25. X-cpe
    Joined: Mar 9, 2018
    Posts: 2,287

    X-cpe

    We had an AMC T-10 in our stock car. Bolted right up to the SBC after we bored out the pilot bearing.
     
    Deuces and Desoto291Hemi like this.
  26. Boggus Deal
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 27

    Boggus Deal
    Member

    Possibly…I believe a lot of the internals of a Stude T-10 are the same as Fords. PM me, please!
     

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