Back in '68 I owned a '40 Chev coupe, all stock. My buddy's dad rolled his '59 Imperial, and I bought the car for $150. My buddy and I swapped the 413, torqueflite, and rear axle into my '40 Chev coupe. Of course the front springs went flat quickly, and we ended up adding some leafs to increase the front spring pack. It was a great car, and we had a lot of fun street racing it when we were young guys. I got my current '39 Chev coupe in 2019, and finished it in 2021. A real mess of rotted metal when I got it, so spent 6 months just replacing bad metal before I could move on to the rest of the build. My rear springs were too much arc, and had the rear end sitting way too high. I removed all but the main leaf, and then drilled a new centering hole back 1.5" to center the axle in the fenders. Then built up a new spring pack using leafs from the front of a '58 Chev truck axle I bought to put under the front of my '39. Brought the rear down to where I wanted it.
I set the body on the frame. The back fenders will need some trimming and the inner wheel well will need some work as well. I test fit a 350 with a 350 turbo. I knew it would fit. I just wanted to make sure I trimmed the cross member to fit an automatic. Never know.
I was not aware of the axle on a master 85. I have had two coupes, one when I was in high school and the one I own now. Neither had a live axle. Thus my confusion. Its funny the car I had in high school remained original while I had a six in it. When I went to the 283 I ran a 3 gear and captured the 10 bolt out of a wrecked 67 Chevelle. The guy I got my current coupe from had put a 10 bolt out of 67 Chevelle. Some things never change I guess. I am running 235s. The wife found a pair of 8x15s and I like a 235 on an 8" rim.
My '40 Chev coupe was a Master Deluxe that I had in high school in the 60's, and also had the independent front suspension. My current '39 is a Master Deluxe Sport Coupe, and had the same independent suspension, but being a Sport Coupe it had rear jump seats that faced each other, and sliding 1/4 windows. Jump seats were missing when I bought it, but still has working sliders. I changed my '40 coupe to a transverse axle/spring setup I got from a friend's '47 Ford car. I changed my current '39 to a '58 Chev truck axle I narrowed 5" to fit under the coupe. I have always liked solid axle cars for the last 60 years or so.
Had a soft spot for ours since 1974. X gasser built by Blair’s in Pasadena. Dropped axle above the parallel leafs, Corvair steering, Pontiac rear, stock MC, 62 Covette drums in front. Aluminum firewall, and interior. 311” GMC 6 for power, Richmond 4 speed. Can’t show a side photo because it has Centerlines on the front.
On all the late 30s through mid 40s Gms that I built early on, I would use Camaro/Nova 10 bolts and relocate the spring pin locating holes on the new spring pads and ubolt/shock mounts ahead an inch which would move the axle back centering them in the fender openings. Stock rear ends always look like there to far forward. You will still have to trim them I think for that size tire. Chassis Engineering had a nice kit that did all that. They were bought up by Heidt's who were bought up by some other group, so I am not sure what they still offer. Just a suggestion and good luck with the project. Larry
Crazy an Iconic car from Blairs that made its own history on the Salt later could get you censored and or banned here
What a cool car!! The front axle looks like its the same amount of drop as mine but the front axle is on top of the springs. I might change it yet.
I have the Chassis engineering springs with a nova under my other sedan. I plan on using coil springs and home made ladder bars on this one.
My great Uncle read a couple of (more like a few!) threads on our HAMB, remarked how "It's remarkable how you young fellers use exotic machinery to make parts for your Hop Ups..."
I made some progress on the trans cross member. I plan on using it for the front ladder bar mount as well. The plate on the floor is going to tie the 2 cross members together.
Just a suggestion on trans or motor mount crossmembers for these old hat frames. I would make up plates of 1/8" thick material to weld to sides and top of the frame where any new mounts are welded on. A plate bent 90 degrees, or two welded together to form a 90 will spread the load on the attachment point. These old frames are great, but after all these decades the metal can become brittle, and will likely crack near any mounts welded to the frames. At least that's what happened to my frame at the motor mounts, and plating them after the car was 100% done wasn't fun to do! I'd also setup the trans crossmember as a bolt in piece, so should you ever need to pull the trans it can be unbolted and removed to make it easy. I made mine to bolt to the bottom lip on the inside of the frame like other original crossmembers did in various places on these cars.
I made mine to bolt to the lip on the inside of the frame, so I can take the whole crossmember out if it needs to get out of the way.
That's how I normally do it. This time I plan on mounting the front of the ladder bars to cross member too. I think I have a plan.
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