i just received the rear window seal for my a100 p/u . came with no window , so im not sure how it instals and i have to make a pattern to have the gl*** cut . i ***ume it goes in from the inside . but im useually wrong . so any help wont hurt . should the window be the same asthe opening . or larger . anyone know . i really dont want to think . just follow directions . thnx bill
Look at the quarter windows...and get some of the same rubber seal material...and then you should be able to figure it out.
The gl*** will have to be small enough to have clearance for the rubber seal. Typically the process goes- put the seal on the gl***, wrap a nylon string around the outside of the seal, set the gl*** ***embly in at the bottom and pull the string to make the rubber lip go into place. You Tube is your friend. Nice Buick BTW
Make a template for the window with 1/4" pressboard or even heavy cardboard using your new seal to test fit in the opening. That way you can make sure it's going to fit perfectly, when you take it to the gl*** shop tell them that's the finished size, and they'll cut it larger and sand the edges to the finished size. That's what I've done and it's easy that way. Does your seal have a lock strip? If not, is one side bigger than the other? How does it compare to the quarter window seals?
Install the rubber gasket, holding it in place with duct tape. Now you can get an accurate measurement. Don't cut the gl*** larger than necessary, the sealer will take up any minor voids. It will install easier if the rubber is preheated before installing the gl***. Lubricate the rubber. I use a product called Isopar, but you can use warm soapy water. Fit the rubber on the gl*** and wind a 1/4" cord ( I prefer cotton) around the perimeter, with both ends meeting at the top. It is helpful to have someone putting pressure on the outside while you pull one end of the cord from the inside, around until removed and the rubber is seated on the flange. Good luck!
And last but not least- make sure the gl*** is the correct thickness. Too thick or thin will cause seal issues. laminated or tempered gl*** would be best.
so it sounds like one of you said install from the outside -in .and one said from the inside out . thats the main thing i need to know . i believe it should go in from inside . as the wind will be pushing out . unless your backing up way to fast . but id like to be certain .i called vitage gl*** . no answer . they said on their site rear gl*** is tempered . i was planning on laminate . any ideas on why tempered would be better . i think i can get laminate cheaper . and local .
Did you look at the quarter windows? They are installed the same way. We can't se them up close, and there are lots of different ways that stationary gl*** is installed in different vehicles. You can see YOUR truck, you can look at how the rubber fits, we can't tell from the low detail picture you posted. Laminate would be ok, it's easier to break it when installing, though. Car makers switched to tempered back gl*** when they started using curved windows around 1940, and switched to tempered side gl*** late 50-mid 60s depending on the make.
Some of us asked questions and you didn't respond. I know you want someone to tell you exactly what to do, but you need to help us help you.
Blowing up your picture, it looks like it will go in from the inside. Is there a garnish molding that goes inside to secure it?
hey squirrel and whom ever else cares . the rear quarter gl*** goes in from the outside . but with the curve i dont see how it could go in reverse .at this point , if i hadnt already purchased the seal, i think i would just go for a flush mount . but im not sure how to do that either .to late to swap hourses now anyway ! there dosnt seem to be a definitive answer so i guess ill install outside in . its a s6 so probably not go fast enough to blow it out anyway !
I would install it like the quarter windows. The suggestion to put the seal in place in the opening, then make a template that fits it, is what I'd do.
i sure heard the merits .clapbord ./cardboard might be ih my budget . should i seal it ? just joking . but if it didnt leak .might re-think it . budget build . and rats in style .
Pictures showing the seal profile and the window opening flange would enable us to direct you better. I just ***umed the rubber gasket fit over the flange in the opening, but Lloyd's question made me realize we haven't seen the rubber gasket. As he asked, is it held in with a garnish molding?
When I need to make a template for getting gl*** cut, I spend the bucks for some masonite...I don't know if you've priced laminated gl*** lately, it's not cheap, you don't want to have to buy it twice
You might need 3/8" dia soft rope, like clothesline rope, to pull the seal lips. Leave a good foot or two as handles. Get at least one other helper to hold the gl*** in place as you work the seal. When installing the gl*** & seal, I prefer to set the gl***/rubber in & pull the cords from the bottom, evenly, at the same time, that way the weight of the gl*** is using gravity & the gl***'s own weight to help it set in place. I've also used a large soft rubber mallet to bump the gl*** to help it settle(yah - be careful, soft touch only). I've also needed nylon flat-sticks to help convince things to go into place(doing w/s in buses). Use a gl*** seal(stuff I've seen comes in caulking tube style) w/a real thin tip when you're done, on both the window & bodyside. Do *NOT* use silicone! Doesn't work, doesn't stick(except to the paint), doesn't seal, does make an F of a mess. Depending on what you choose for rubber-lube, it could get messy, maybe inhibit the gl***-seal. You could make a full size pattern of the opening, measure the thickness of the seal, double it & add ~ 1/8" for clearance, ask the gl*** guys. If you use laminate, you can use a DA w/wet-or-dry sandpaper to smooth the edges or get some clearance if needed. Marcus...
When the gl*** guy put the center rear gl*** in my 49, it went in from inside of the truck. Both rear corner windows went in from outside. On my 49 there were no inside garnish moldings, but there was a headliner board that set in an inside lip on the gl*** gasket. You will want to be sure you put the gl*** into the correct groove in the gasket. They did pull the rubber in with a cord. The center window was easy, the two corner windows were a royal pain. Also, I bought all the gl*** for my truck from Bob's Cl***ic Auto Gl***. They have all the patterns and even with shipping it was less 1/2 of what the local guy wanted just for the cut gl*** (the local guy was not upset at all that he didn't have to cut my gl***). The gl*** from Bob's was well packed, would have had to be a real effort the shipping guys to break it.
Check with https://www.autocitycl***ic.com maybe they can point you in the right direction on gl***. I think you might have to find used gl*** for the corners When you find the gl*** You should buy some of those suction handles, rope tool and some of black caulk sealer if you want to use sealer. Some people put them in dry. You can use soapy water. you put the rubber around the edge of the gl*** Some people tape blue tape around to hold in place while setting up. Add the rope tool roper to the gutter side of the rubber. For the center rear, mark the center on the gl*** on a taped spot. Also mark the center on the body. Then you lay in the gl*** from the center outside. You just pull the rope from the inside as a help pushes agains the gl***. same for the corners. the nylon stick totally help too. Some come with the suction cups but the trim removal sets work great.
I have never seen an old truck with garnish moldings for the back or quarter windows. I really should get out more. We did some corner gl*** (junkyard supplied) on my brother's 1950 Chevy truck. He even used the old gaskets after he cleaned them up. One trick is to lay the gaskets out on the hood in the sun to soften them up. We used a 1/4" nylon rope and some lube from a local gl*** shop, no clue what it was but it smelled great.
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