Good afternoon to everyone. Okay got all the wiring completed and new starter put in and my T Bucket with the SBC 350 started up once I set initial timing. Now my question is why the coolant wants to come out the overflow tank. The coolant level is just above the top row of tubes. The overflow tank had less than a 1/2 inch in it. I don't know if there is a thermostat in it as I have not taken that apart. If I leave the cap off it seems to be fine. I also looked at the relief valve or so called pop valve and couldn't see any issues with that. Before starting it again after letting it sit for a couple of hours the expansion tube was full again and once started it drained into a pan. I understand about the cooling system but this is stupid or maybe it is me missing something. Now if I am correct I may have to take the cap off again and check the level to make sure it is above the core correct. Looking for help because I must be missing something. Thank you all
Is the radiator top tank above the engine? Could be air trapped in the system, heating up and expanding, pushing coolant out? You may want to jack up the front to get the top tank above the engine, to help get any trapped air out. What pound radiator cap do you have? Worst case a bad head gasket pressurizing the cooling system.
Just curious, but what is a relief/pop off valve? I’m not familiar with that term in a cooling system. Thanks.
This has a speedway radiator that uses the pop valve on the top driver side of the radiator. If it was a bad head gasket it would show in the oil right. Oil is fine. Not really sure if it actually overheats or not because I shut down once it get above 200. This is all happening at idle. Trying not to do any damage. I believe the pop valve is 13 pounds from talking with speedway.
I see. Someone on the FordBarn does something similar with the FHV8’s as well. So I’d guess the radiator cap is sealed then? Thanks.
The radiator cap unscrews. The pop valve or relief valve is located on the driver side which goes into the round tank you see on the radiator.
Do you have one of those hand held temperature guns? you can see what temp things are as the engine is warming up. It's pretty common to have to get the engine a bit warmer for the thermostat to open the first time, something about having air trapped around it? 200 degrees won't hurt anything. but it also depends where you measure, and if the heads are full of coolant.
I don't have one of those but may need to get one. I know when I ran it at idle with the cap off the water was circulating well in my opinion. I am wondering if there is a thermostat in there if it would help to run without one. Am I correct in saying that a bad head gasket would put water in the oil. I keep checking it and it is very clean and no issues. Gues that is why I don't think it is a head gasket.
A head gasket leak may or may not put water in the oil, depending on where it's leaking. It can make the cooling system smell like exhaust. If you have a working thermostat, it will cool just as well as with no thermostat. Engines get warm sitting inside idling, maybe it's time to go for a drive, if the brakes, etc all work.
Fresh engine, recent purchase, ie what’s the history you may have on it? Normal pressure cap radiators can have the system pressure tested, but I’m unsure if there is something that works with a screw on cap - ie like on my Dads Peterbilts.
Can you give us a good clear side shot of the engine and radiator area? There is a chance that air might be getting trapped somewhere although it looks like the radiator is well above the top of the engine. Puking coolant doesn't always mean running hot though, it can mean as quirrel mentioned a head gasket issue. Do the simple things first before you get carried away. Make sure that the upper hose doesn't have a section that is higher than the inlet of the radiator that traps air. Check the lower hose to make sure that it isn't collapsing when the engine is running. Pull the theromostat (if there is one ) and stick it in a pan of water and stick it on the stove and make sure that it opens up. (Empty metal coffee can works great and keeps significant other calm). With no heater just the hull of the thermostat will usully maintain proper temperature on cars you don't have a heater on. That usually works better all around than no thermostat at all. I'm not sure if O'Reilly's or Autozone have leak down tester in their tool loan program but running a leak down test if you have an air supply should show if you have a bad head gasket.
This radiator has a speedway dog bone cap on it. This is a speedway radiator #9100278 on it. Here is a picture hopefully it will come out if not I will try to get a clearer one.
Op , Heads are Gen 1 , is the block Gen 1 or Gen 2 block ? Gen 2 is I piece rear main seal . I ask this because cooling deferent in block p***ages .
unique radiator neck. is electric fan pulling air toward motor? how is it controlled? where is temp gauge sender located? yes, you want to run a thermostat. do you fill coolant to top of radiator? once radiator has warmed up to say 160 or so does the coolant flow across top of core in upper tank, or just push coolant out? if it flows do you see bubbles? attached are some pics of your type of radiator. the decorative T bone cap is not a standard radiator cap. the aluminum "overflow tank" you have looks like one for a recovery system using a standard radiator cap that allows coolant to be pushed out when hot/warm and then when cools pulls coolant back to radiator. I believe that you just need a over flow catch type unit.
Change ***le of your thread to be more specific for a new style T radiator - lots of other threads on overheating problems that have a lot of input already.
Not sure how to change ***le of thread. The temp sender is located in the intake manifold a couple of inches from the thermostat. I cannot fill the radiator up to the top because it will go out the relief valve which is connected to the overflow line. I have some numbers off the engine but not sure of which Gen it is because I just got this a couple of months back. I may have to find out what the correct level should be because maybe just thinking the relief valve may be bad letting the fluid out instead of keeping it in the radiator. Speedway told me they are set for 13 pounds.
Make sure that the engine is actually overheating. Small block at idle will take a while to get to 200. Mentioned above heat gun. And believe it or not make sure you're timing is not off by alot, it will heat up way quicker.
If it’s moving water when it’s just started up/cold, as viewed with the cap off then ya either don’t have a t-stat or its hung open. The hand held thermometers are great when diagnosing **** like this The coolant level will move as it warms up. 200 isn’t hot in my world. My 350 runs 210-215 all day. top that thing off and hammer it up and down the street.
I am really reading the input real hard and really appreciate the input . I have no problem with the temp getting high, the only problem I see is the water coming out the of the relief valve. Would I be right in saying if the relief valve on the radiator was bad that could be the reason it is letting water out thru it?
All I know on new cars the coolant moves back and forth between tank and radiator. I burp em Then cruise em
From reading what Jalopy Joker posted from the Speedway site, the pressure valve is in backwards. It says the radiator side of the valve is the hex or Allen wrench side. We can see yours in the picture you posted and the hex shows.
On mind the hex is at the top of the radiator. Are you saying the hex head should be on the bottom where the line connects to it.
Well this is an update on my cooling issue. I drained the radiator, and it does have a thermostat in it. It is a 160 degree. Now would you leave the 160 or go up to a 180 degree. I also pulled apart the relief valve from the radiator. All that is in there is a spring small pull plate that has a small rubber ring and then the set screw. Went down to the hardware store and bought a new o ring that looks to match up.
I'd leave the 160. If you plan on putting a whole bunch of miles on the car, like 50k, then a 180 will let the engine run warmer and reduce cylinder wear a bit. But with today's fuel tending to percolate easily, running the engine at a lower temp when possible seems like a good idea.
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