Technical Can you coach a complete novice through wiring a shoebox?

I like Tesa tape. I buy it on Amazon. It doesn't have a sticky residue and holds up well.

 

My electrics were a mess in my car. I realized early on that the car had no fuse box and may have been a police car at some point. It had a map light under the dash, tons of auxillary wiring and barrier strips all over. Out it all came. The only thing I kept was some heater control wiring and I tidied up the instrument cluster quite a bit. I used a Kwik Wire 14-circuit kit that was great. I took my time with it, July of 2015 was a scorcher and I only worked on it early or late at night.

 

I wrapped exactly no wires on my car. At work, we trashed out-of-date military spec shrink sleeve in big rolls, so that was what I used. Under the hood, I routed most of the wiring the same way or in Summit wire protection. Similar to what Painless sold, but way less expensive.

 

I saw the tesa tapw, but some says high temp some says interior, I wasn’t sure if it would be ok in the engine compartment.
I got the main branches run, leaving slack in the run for the trunk, so I can wrap it then pull through. I didn’t start connections because of the questions I have. Ie I have that voltage regulator that is like in the instructions, but where four connections are shown what I have now has 3 and 4 (mine shows F,2,3,4j jumped. I don’t know if that even frickin matters, or just pull it all and connect anew. But then I have 4 wires on my alternator, that isn’t in the diagrams..

I want to hookup my voltage drops for the gauges, but one has a post missing it seems. I have more pics to put up with questions. I may just start crimping ends on to start this morning.

I have a couple questions that don’t need pics: the new lights that are going to convert the Parking lights into turn signals have ends on already that will plug into something, do I just cut those off and connect to my wires? 2. My original taillights, should I just connect to the old wires there, or buy new sockets? My original plan was everything new. 3. Instructions say wire x to low filament and y to bright filament. How can I tell which is which? Just swap the bulb if it doesn’t show right?

thanks guys

red

 

Oh! Before I forget, this kit has no done wire, do I have to use one of my extra circuits for that? Does it matter what color? If I am reading the diagram from ford right (thanks for the link guys! I have the green book as well and it’s probably in there but I was able to print this one out so I feel comfortable drawing on it) then it runs off clock light as well and is black w a blue tracer originally. And they do connect through a circuit breaker. I found a small fuse panel on the back of the dash that I am not sure the use of.
I have one of those magic air down there too, another circuit? And I am guessing the popper for the trunk needs a circuit?
Is the 9+3 not enough? Now would be the time to buy a bigger kit, I’m only down a couple hours. And I answered my question about the plugs on the light sockets, there’s a connector that shoebox central sells.
Here is a pic of the missing bolt, this is the temp gauge. I have a pic I printed from shoebox showing how it’s supposed to look.

 

I finally started doing things!!! Got the back end all done, just pending wire order from Wirebarn so I can run additional power for the popper. Slowly going through, made a couple calls to rebel and shoebox and got some great info there. (Rebel customer support was Awesome guys! Really spent time explaining things to me. I had called them because I didn’t know what some things in my kit were for. Explained to me so much. shoebox as well, these two vendors are top notch).

here is the latest and a couple questions:
I had to replace the temp gauge (thanks shoebox!) and the wiring looks good to me. However, where I crimped I broke through the plastic, I’ve just been crimping w my Kline strippers. Do I need to redo this? I just bought some better crimp tool where it ratchets and won’t open till you get tight enough. And I got some more ring connectors. I’m not worried about the connection I’m only thinking about possible corrosion.

anyone know for sure which posts on the headlight are high, low and ground?

I’m only paused right now waiting on some wire

I’m excited seeing things come together. Thanks everyone

red

 

A little help:

 

Sorry, it’s actually the high low kick down switch I need. Although this helps a lot too

Wire just got here. Back at it today

 

There a dimmer switch picture about half way down this page:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/850690-headlights.html

Does that dimmer switch look like yours?

 

Yes! That’s it, the 48 headlight dimmer switch. Thanks brother!!!

 

Sorry guys, some medical stuff had to stop for a bit. I have a few more questions to move on from where I got. To before stopping. I’ll post them reply with my questions since the pics are on my phone and small

 

Ok. Once I finish under the dash I can move to the engine compartment. Not going to worry about the magic air or the wipers right now I don’t think. And we don’t have a radio yet.

1. the gauge has a couple holes with lenses it looks like and R and L for turn signal indicator. There’s holes, but no sockets for lights. How can I add them?

2. there’s a couple pics of the light switch with the wires I think go to those posts. I’m fairly certain, but just want to double check.

3. last and most complicated and maybe needs more specific questions , the diagrams for the steering column matching where I think they go on the wiring harness. Can anyone look at that and tell me if it looks good? Should I just junk the original column column and clamp on signal unit and go with an aftermarket?

thanks a lot guys. The end is nearish!

 

I don’t know if anyone is checking this. Question jd you are. I had bought a relay from shoebox central to brighten the original headlight we like the incandescent. I just want to know, with a whole new harness do I need that wired in now, or will the new setup eliminate that? I bench tested the headlight to verify which pins are which, using the cars 12v battery, and it isn’t very bright. But of course that’s going off just the battery power.

gracias

 

All the makers of wiring kits seem to sell optional headlight relay kits! Takes the load off the switch for sure, but necessary otherwise, or just a cynical upsell by the manufacturers? I'd suggest if you've got it already, use it.

Chris

 

A little info about dash indicator for turn signals:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/shoebox-turnsignals.11464/

Some info and headlight wiring diagram here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1119453-51-f1-headlight-switch-diagram.html

Photo of headlight switch wiring:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/shoebox-ford-hl-switch-jpg.4081611/

I can't find good info on shoebox factory column turn signal switch wiring. Hopefully someone else will share.

 

What is the advantage to the bullet connector setup for front and rear lights? I mean, the only reason I could see is if you have to replace the socket, because you can get the bulbs out regardless, so why not just use a **** connector and be done with it?

 

I don't like bullet connectors, I've heard the connection can become bad.
I have used male/female insulated blade connectors.
A **** connector will certainly work.

 

I spoke to rebel who the guy has been AMAZING and patient AF. He said most of their clients don’t use a relay. It was via text though and late afternoon so I didn’t pick his brain to much in it. The relay came w instructions that I don’t know how to combine w the new kit though so the easiest is for me to leave it out (I need a 30amp relay for the trunk popper so it won’t go unused)

sorry about multi posts, on my phone without gl***es editing old ones seems harder

thanks PPrather!!! Good that makes sense tk me and I have a hundred of those now thanks to Amazon, nice ones w good heat shrink)

progress so far: wiring done to the rear and, wrapped. Waiting to install the taillights and new gaskets. Light switch installed and wired, aftermarket strap on the column turn signal wired up (gonna post some better instructions than that soon, they were damn terrible, thanks rebel for the save) gauge wired and mostly ready for install need bulbs. Here’s a couple pics (I should have taken more) I haven’t heat shrink the connectors showing yet I just did these. The bullet connector is the push ****on starter

 

Unfortunately, these are generally needed because the harness manufacturers skimp on wire size to the fuse panels and beyond and the aggregate voltage drops cause dim lights. Add in a one-wire alternator without voltage sensing and it gets worse.

Relays have their uses, but they use them more often than not to correct deficiencies in their basic design.

 

Hey gents,

ok, ignition switch. Before I try to figure out where to put all the wires on a 3 post switch; should I order a new one? This one I got from shoebox and it fires the dash and trim ring but I noticed a crack. Anyone know one that will fit and has whatever posts I should have? We will have a radio.


Also, just need to get the bulbs and the marker/turn signals are ready. We want turn signals on this(the entire reason for rewire is brighter head and brake lights with turn signals) I bought these sockets also from shoebox. But the springs are weak AF and I cannot get them to lock in tight in the socket. I would love to get some that have the heavy duty spring like the OEM have. Or is there a trick to make these tight? They are weird, the spring is so weak

 

If you want to listen to the radio with the ignition off and without having the radio permanently live (so you have to switch it off each time you park up) you'll need a switch that will has 4 terminals, one of which will be an accessory circuit. Battery, ignition, crank, accessory, yep 4.

Chris

 

On the light socket springs, can you move those little ****on out of the socket by pushing the wires in from the back?
Then you might be able to stretch the springs a little.
Or, go to NAPA and order better sockets.

 

Ok, so hit Napa for better sockets. Hopefully they know what I’m looking for half the time it seems nobody knows how to order it and they don’t stock it. I’ll look for ignitions online. Should pretty much all of them take that trim ring?

Dash bulbs I looked online thought I had the right thing. They fit fine, but are slightly smaller and thank heavens I bench tested because I was just going to swap them all to match and they aren’t as bright. Does anyone know what is direct replacement for ‘49

update. Went to Napa. No luck on ignition unless I wanna swap for one with a ring to hold it in too ugly. No bulbs other than what I have. No turn signal socket rebuild kit won’t work in original.

I will use these bulbs for now likely. Better to get done and figure out later. Ignition switch as well, just figure out the wiring. Stupid turn signal will work. But will rattle but hopefully since the whole car is noisy I won’t notice it

 

Hey guys, few issues I’m getting.
Taillights, first they came in, hit the brakes and drivers comes on p***engers goes off. Buddy suggest bad ground. I had painted the hoisting so I scuff the p***enger side plug it back in. Now that side only bright filament stays lit. Whether brake is alllied or not. Double checked wiring they’re connected correct.

I have the aftermarket mount to column turn signal switch if that helps. Front turn working both sides. When we got the car I had to jumper taillight off the drivers side but since this is all new wiring (original sockets though so about 8” of old wire there) I don’t want to try that. I mean, it’s got a dedicated tail wire for that side. The sockets gets real hot too but I don’t know if that’s because the bright filament is on too long.

front turns work both sides that’s great. Does anyone know if the little light on the turn switch housing is supposed to come on whenever the lights are on? It indicates correctly but is in whenever ignition is on whether lights are on or not.

I won’t know until I can take it further away than the driveway if I successfully got the headlights brighter. High beams work great and now I have working high beam and turn signal indicators in the gauge cluster.

No gauge lights though, not sure wtf is happening there, wiring looks right under dash. I even test w a voltage tester I get 12v at the blade plug (I wired the 6 bulb wires to a single female then use a spade on the dash lead from the harness. Not sure there is a better way? But connect all of them? )

ideas?

it starts and runs though!!! Glad for that

 

When I wired my '54 I had the same issues you're having with taillights/turn signals/backup lights, etc. Took awhile but I went through each one individually, turns out every issue was ground related. Triple check everything for good solid grounds. Also, you'll get brighter headlights if you wire them through relays. Normally, 12v leaves the battery and travels through the entire wiring harness, through the headlight switch then all the way to the front of the car to the headlights. Voltage drop could be as much as 2v by the time it reaches the headlights. With relays you'll get the full 12v at the headlights. Run 2 relays. One for low and one for high beams.

 

Mwahahaha!! I got it! I’ll explain in a sec.

ok, first I’d like to ask a question about the relays, I do have one, and that was what shoebox recommended. Rebel said with a good lot new wire I shouldn’t need it so decided to start without and add as needed. But the main reason is I actually don’t understand how it works and exactly how to wire so figured I understand better after I’m done then can add it.
Can you explain then how it works? My new friend at Rebel did but I’m still shaky. It takes the power straight from battery and sends it right to the lights? And how do I wire it, the diagram that came w the relay wasn’t too explanatory for an idiot. For instance for my front lights? And with a working high low switch?

now, the only thing I fixed, but it was the most depressing, is the tail lights and brake light. I was laying here after getting up to piss at 1am and thought,”what I’d the wires on the Socket are wrong?” See I thought I bench tested every single socket on the car, but then I wondered if maybe o only tested one rear. The car wiring schematic matches the drivers side I tested, and I had written on the trunk floor what I got when I tested it. Black tail/green turn and brake. So I cut the wires, pull the light socket and test it. Sure enough, REVERSED! Wham bam thank you mam. “But red, why when you applie brakes didn’t you get a dim light if the wires were reversed?” Stupid bulb was burnt out on the dim side! I think what happened when I first turned them on and got dim then nothing was due to a poor ground. I solved that and had the full closed circuit power to the bright filament. When the brakes were applied it cut off and since the other filament was dead I got nothing.
New bulb, reversed the wires, tested and it’s working perfect.

My other issues stand though, at least it’s drivable again though. the lights looked bright but I had nobody to help me so can’t really say. Tomorrow in the light if the brakes are bright enough I’m driving it to my brothers.

If not, relay time.

thanks a lot evintho!

 

See if you can get your arms around headlight relay diagram:
https://i.pinimg.com/736x/f4/17/8a/f4178a833acce0ef670c33ccebf218e7.jpg