Here's a shot of the setup in my '30 Model A...There are 9 springs and it rides HARSH on expansion joints and bumps. I'd LIKE to change that. The particulars: I put in a bump stop on the body above where the rear axle WOULD hit. There's about 1.25" between them. I don't think there's 1/4" of play when I hit bumps. I was thinking of removing a leaf or two but obviously don't want the body to hit the axle. How much would one or two leaves removed infringe on that gap? How much would that soften up the ride?
My understanding. Removing short leaves affects ride less than removing longer leaves. I'd hesitate removing two leaves that are next to each other, in the spring pack. With nine leaves, you might take out third from longest and fifth from longest? The leaves are about 1/4" thick, so each leaf removed lowers the static height of the body to axle by about a quarter inch, unless a spacer(s) are put on the top of the stack. I'd say it will be trial and retrial until you are happy. Very important: do you know how to remove a transverse spring? and: Do you know how to dis***emble and re***emble the spring pack?
That was my next question! Inhabe removed a bunch of parallel leaf spring packs but never a transverse one. I don’t have a spring spreader tool bit O was thinking about supporting the frame on jack stands, then removing the 4 bolts holding the center of the spring pack to the frame, then C-Clamping the pack as I remove the center bolt, then slowly let off the C-Clamps, yanking a spring or two, then reversing that procedure to put it together- never touching the eye bolts. Would that work?
I would use a c clamp on both sides of the bolt and also get a lot longer bolt to take it apart and start ***embling it back together. When you get it pinched down you can switch back to the shorter bolt. Be careful if you have never done it because there is a lot of energy in there.
You are the second member in recent weeks to have a problem with harsh ride...and next to zero travel. 1. The spring needs to be soft enough to gently bounce with the shocks disconnected. 2. This means nothing if there is no travel. You need to do something to allow travel. Room for the spring to actually move and do its springy thing.
I just got a car back that I started, but another shop finished. No travel, and way too many leaves on a very light car. I fixed the travel issue. The pack is now down to 3-leaves, and I may resort to making them shorter, one-at-a-time. I might try just 2 first.
Just noticed...once you get decent enough travel room for your suspension to work, that none-too-clever exhaust routing through the ladder bars may end up banging and clanking. You might get lucky.
Who built that exhaust?! Ha! Exhaust is not supposed to flex with the suspension. If you plan on figuring a way to actually make your suspension move, you might as well cut the exhaust out first. Then you can reroute it better later when you see how far the parts will move.
Will a spring spreader or a porta-power work? Here's a bunch of threads on spring spreader use. The Ford Barn - Search Results Hope those 4 main spring mounting nuts are safety wired or have a cotter pin as they usually are on the bottom. Here's a great thread on transverse spring design and mounting. Hot Rods - Tranverse Springs Tech Info. | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)
That is a novel way to route the exhaust pipes, it might rattle a bit once you get the spring working. Can you get pictures of how much axle to frame clearance you have to work with? I agree with NoSurf, I’d start with removing #2 and #4 long leaves and see what happens.
Damn...more to think about than I thought about! Here are a couple more photos...about 1.75" from the top of the axle tube to the bump stop on the frame... And the ends of the springs, as requested. There are no cotter pins (that I can see) on the spring to frame bolts. Am I right to go about it the way I suggested...by leaving the eyes bolted to the axle? Anyone know (off hand) the size of that spring pack center bolt? Looks like 1/4" maybe? Figured I'd pick up a nice long one for ease/safety in compressing and decompressing.
Before you start pulling springs part, how bouncy is it with the shocks disconnected/removed? I mean, before it bottoms out. You need to test this, because you may find 90% of your problem is lack of travel, not necessarily the spring. At least try it before pulling the spring. I also see the spring already has a thick spacer. Probably was almost bottomed out completely without it.
The center bolt is usually 5/16 or 3/8. Your C clamp method should work fine. You may want to increase the spacer thickness by the two leaf thicknesses (1/2”), removing the leaves will cause the spring to flatten easier and might lower the static height along with the 1/2” from removing the leaves. Everything looks pretty well done under there. I have the same dilemma with my Model A coupe, very little travel before bottoming out but mine has coil-overs in back.
If I was wanting to remove leaves from that spring and noting that the rear crossmember is tubular ( and, I'll ***ume, has clearance to the trunk floor) I'd be looking to remove the spring and dis***emble it on the bench. A strong ratchet strap around the axle and crossmember of to relieve the tension whilst removing the shackles. Reverse for re***embly. Clamps, threaded rods, working off the floor. No thanks! Chris
If you have 9 leaves/leafs, - I would start by removing one or two, maybe even three of the short one’s on top, if needed, - I would never touch the two longest leaves. ( as suggested in post 11, by @NoSurf ). Looking at the reproduction springs, I wonder why they don’t have all of the short leafs ?
Area you sure it a firm spring, and not just hitting bottom? Only a couple inches of space is easy to compress.
Here's some good info on how to remove a reversed eye rear spring. how to remove a reversed eye rear pring - Search (bing.com)
Looking at the pictures above, Clem is right. Removing the #2 leaf leaves the main leaf unsupported at the ends. Even though the back of the car is pretty light, that’s not the best situation. Maybe #s 3 & 5.
Oh- there is almost zero travel- if I try to bounce on the open trunk OR bench press up from the ground there is no compression… It’s already riding higher than I would like in the back but that 1.75” bump stop clearance makes me nervous. Now to find the time… Thanks all.
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