Technical Ply-Do inline6 - somebody out there ?

As a Ford FE guy, I may be expecting too much, but searching all over the internet for stores and forums about the early Plymouth-Dodge Inline 6 takes us to nirvana.
I found a P15 forum, that's all. No FB group…

I've gotten some very good advice here, but searching for parts or exchanging information between sellers and stores leads me to a dead end.

I know it's not the most mainstream car, but I'm starting to understand why everyone throws an SB Chevy into an early car.

Correct me if I'm wrong, maybe I'm hanging out with some blues...

 

Are you looking for L6 parts?
I think powerwagon.com ? Is who I’ve used before, as well as Roberts in MA? I think they are. I’m sure there’s others as well.

 

After having many Mopars from that era to play with in the late '60's, early 70's, the pool seemed to dry up when nature destroyed the floors ( rot ) and no one felt them worth the cost of doing a 'body off'.
Going back thirty years from today I brought one home, it was sketchy but still usable.
While fixing it up ( in th' 90's ) I found very few available. They went to the great carlot in the sky.
The nice ones left had major value attached. ( Sold mine for reasonable cash in 2003 )
In sum I cite the phenominum of the '57 Fords that out sold Chevy, but weren't invested in.

 

Just for clarification, what year/engine are you looking for information on?

 

https://www.moparmontana.com/
Might help.

 

a 1941 23‘ L6

 

Well, it’s a quite simple engine, newly and NOS parts are available, what questions about it do you have? I’ve gone through a few, I’m no expert, but there are several on the HAMB that can ***ist as well.

 

i am just looking for a higher compression head for sale and the best choice of carburators (1 barrel) for a 2x1 intake

 

There used to be inlinersinternational and stovebolt .com sites, that may yield some good info. The sites revolves around straight 6 engines.

 

I had a 53 Chrysler about 20 years ago

I bought a set of cheap “ tube style headers “ split exhaust manifold .

and found a factory duel carb intake from a dodge dump truck . I used a matched set of ball and ball carburetor a of a Chrysler / dodge , inline 6

the car had the fluid drive trans and drove great on the highways and good pick up from light to light in traffic as well .


I know this is clear as mud to your question but it worked great for me and was reliable.

 

Uh… what’s a “hood puck up”??

 

Canadian ***ual thing

 

Ducking automatic carrot strikes again

Duck !
Duck !
Duck !

Ducking dumb mother ducking duckless ducker !!!!


Sheesh , I’m outta here

 

A Canadian hockey term of course!

 

No idea what your impression of the p-15 - D-24 group is ..... It is actually pretty active, I have replied there 5 times today about my build and others build ..... while messing around in the garage with my brakes.

Here is a photo from another member talking about ***embly of his truck about 2 hours ago.






While this engine appears to have a stock head installed .... all the go fast parts you speak of and the best suppliers are available ..... There was a recent builder that just ran off another batch of finned aluminum heads and were available for sale.

All I'm suggesting is many p-15 members also visit this site .... they are both good sites for information.
The engine in the photo is very mild compared to some of the other members .... You found the right place for your search .... up to you to follow through.

Me personally do not care for the speed equipment on my old shop truck .... My build really does not fit on the hamb, so it is not here. I can not offer advice of where to buy the goodies ..... I can tell you where you can find the correct advice

 

I have lurked there many times and found a great deal of info. Same here. This place is so active older stuff gets hidden quick, but the search function is pretty good.
Here's one from just last month
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...flathead-6-any-improvement-available.1299659/

I will mention that as with ANY specialty stuff, always do a search on the seller before spending a dime.
This place is pretty good about calling out bad actors, and the web can find dirt going back years.
I will mention a couple things about this engine to keep you from issues unknown. First, the WATER DISTRIBUTION TUBE. Read about it and be prepared to do this while the head is off. Second, gaskets and other parts you plan on replacing should be researched and have on hand before you start. The past couple years have made all of us a bit more careful about expectations, but any older limited market stuff was bad before then.

 

Does the head have to be off? I think I changed the tube without much fanfare.

 

No,that is not necessary.

 

The places above are about it.
One thing I seen help these is having an overdrive added. or get a different gear ratio by changing the rearend.
After that even with the go fast parts your engine will be screaming for a lower gear.
But really all these cars were designed to go about 65 tops.

 

Seems like @VANDENPLAS is having typing problems..... I'll bet he just washed his hands and can't do a ducking thing with them!

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1034781930241668

 

The distribution tube goes behind the water pump. Getting it out through that opening is fairly simple if it's whole and not stuck. Otherwise, it's like building a ship in a bottle.
https://p15-d24.com/topic/42772-water-distribution-tube/
Having the ability to blow compressed air into the various coolant ports with the head off to get muck out is helpful, but doesn't allow more access.
This engine was used through the 50s in cars and trucks, and forklifts and other 'industrial' applications through the 70s. Doing searches for lots of different keywords can track down some esoteric info, but here and P15D24 have the most useful info in my experience.
Fluid drive is not as great on the road as a good manual setup, but is a conversation starter and will work. I haven't looked for modern trans options, but the 'floating power' mounting for the stock drivetrain will require changes to support upgrades, typical hot rod stuff.
...and just like that, the first result for "P15 5 speed" is
https://p15-d24.com/topic/40156-whos-really-happy-with-their-t5-conversion/
Get it running and reliable, make it pretty and drive it to see what you want to make better, just like any project.

 

Give George Ashe a call, he sells dual carb kits and linkage parts, as well as rebuilds overdrive transmissions. Him and his son are great sources of ***istance.

814.354.2621

 

https://www.facebook.com/1129289037...rton-of-santa-rosa-californ/1141729115930747/

MoPar stuff and info has never as available as more mainstream like Ford and Chevrolet not just hop up parts but any parts.

 

Unless you are looking for "eye candy" rather than performance; replacing the Chrysler designed "Ball & Ball" carburetor with one from a 1946~1948 Chevrolet will perform better than the dual singles, and MUCH better than the Ball & Ball.

Carter and Plymouth proved the latter part of that statement in 1947 when the plant building the Ball & Ball carbs went on strike, and Carter ran out of the Ball & Ball carbs and subs***uted the Chevrolet units.

https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_574_Plymouth.pdf

Jon

 

The heads from the late 50's increase the compression ratio. Offy sells the dual intake, I've got one, but I'm not going to hot rod the original motor after all. I bought two Carter WA-1's and the kits to rebuilt them on epay.

 

Try oldmoparts.com It's probably best to call them as they probably have the largest stock of NOS parts in the country that are not listed on their web site. Andy can probably answer many of your questions.

 

'58-'59 head is the highest compression. Or just mill a bunch off your head. every little bit helps.

Dave

 

Chrysler made 2 versions of the flathead 6 motor.
The motor used in the Plymouth division had a 23" long head and was the smaller inline 6 motor. The Plymouth's started out with a 4 cylinder in the car that had a shorter hood, so that was the reasoning behind the shorter head when the inline 6 was added to the Plymouth car line.

Dodge and Chrysler both shared a 25" long head inline 6 motor. Most exported cars, and most produced in other countries were the 25" long head motors. Most trucks used the 25" motor, especially after WW2. (Chrysler also offered an inline 8 cylinder, but that is a different story).

The two different versions of the inline 6 had different bores, different pistons, different crankshaft, different camshafts, different intake and exhaust manifolds, in addition to the different blocks and heads. Not many parts interchanged.

Over the years, both versions of the inline 6 increased the cubic inches (by bore, or by stroke, or by both bore and stroke) but the motors always listed to cubic inch displacements for each year, the small CI was the 23" long head. Many of the performance parts available were for the 25" long head motor, so if you find parts, make sure they fit your motor (it may also be smart to measure the head length of the motor you have. Many long head motors were swapped into the Plymouths).

 

From my 1946 Motor manual