Projects 41 Ford pickup finally got it home and pictures pictures

I'm using band clamps the rest of the way back but I have to make a jog to get through the X member opening. Also I'm using up the pipe that was on the truck; which didn't fit the greatest. I have some Mellow Tones that were on the coupe (2" inlet and outlet) that I'm trying to work in. I thought about 2 in. ss with mandrel bends but I'm not sure that fits the trucks personality

 

My truck has a personality disorder or three. I figure it may need therapy, or a real hard drive.

 

I'm sure most here have a technique for removing rusted/stuck screws. Here's pix of how I finally removed 5 of 6 upper hinge screws on my truck.
The first one I tried like this; I drilled the hole too deep and the head came off. I had to drill out the remaining bolt shank and follow with a tap. I was lucky to pick up the original thread and push out the remaining bolt with the tap.
I used new hardware to minimize weld contamination.
I actually had the head on this one twist off ( the last one) so I had to weld a nut on and it finally broke loose.
4 came out looking like this. They were a little rusty but the real problem was the original "star" washers under the screw head. The cab is at the blasters; I should get it back in plenty of time to get epoxy on it and be ready for winter.

 

Here's a little catch up. I picked up the cab from the blaster and he pointed out some small holes in the top of the windshield opening and the mouse nest that made them. I touched around them with the mig and they just got bigger. So, I went to getting the engine fired. I've been running temporary wiring ; when I get the cab on, I'll re-install the harness.
Here is the "jog" pipe to get around the alternator.
I think I'll just paint it black. I have the original radiator from my coupe; it's been dry and stored since about '66 and I'm having it re-cored. The cost is about the same as a new copper/br*** one.
I'm hoping to fire it in the next couple of days.

 

Creative, going around that altenator rather than over it and creating an air bubble potentially.

On those corners above the windshield, can you take a picture of the spots? You are going to have cut the metal back so you have good, thick steel to play with and create a patch. That won't be easy, tight radius, small space. However, I know a guy that has a cab section off a 40 PU from the windshield back to the reveal below the rear window. I have dibs on the rear window section but if you send me some pictures of what you need I will see what I can do.

 

Thanks Billy. I'll get that tomorrow and PM you.

 

Mice must like that space in above the windshield mine had the same issue. You are doing a great job.

 

The big news is that I started the FH, however there are a couple of setbacks. There was a wiring problem to fix and V8Bob found the the problem for me. I fixed the wiring and it started, but with only a floor fan blowing through the radiator, it warmed up pretty fast and I had to shut down. The temperature on both banks came up together and oil pressure was 50 psig then dropped back to 40-45.
The temp. got to 190 and I shut it down. Total run time < 10 min.
Note the orange tape on the radiator hose.
Temporary run stand.
Throttle rod with vise grips to hold RPM around 2000.

 

The orange tape on the radiator hose is where the fan blades "skinned" the hose . The fan blades were not all rotating in the same plane. I tweaked the offenders into line and checked hose clearance while cranking with the starter . Clearance is 1/4-5/16 in. The new hoses should be here tomorrow.
I'll post a video of it running. [ Pictures after straightening the fan.

 

You could always build a 1/4" spacer and move that fan a bit tighter to the radiator. More hose clearance, better cooling

 

What are the numbers on those lower hoses, please?

 

There are 2 numbers; the red number is 91A 8286 B and on the backside it is 91 A 8286-1. I'm sure they are Ford part numbers. I got them from Midwest Early Ford in Ohio.

 

Great that you have fired it. look carefully at the hoses. They might clear better if fitted the other way up. One bend is tighter than the other (from my experience).

 

I got the hoses on and clear; I used the long end on the pump and trimmed the radiator end about 3/8 inch because of the non- stock sway bar. I ran it a total of about 25 minutes and set the timing at 4 deg. advance. Here is the video . I have a video , but I can't post it.

 

You have to upload the video on youtube and post the link on here

 

Thanks. I'll give that a shot.

 

I've been setting up for winter; I moved the engine/ch***is to the front side of the garage and put the cab on a borrowed rotisserie where the ch***is was. I pulled the 8ba carb .I used for startup and am replacing it with a 59 that I'm waiting for parts for. I'm also doing 2 Holley 94's for the 2x2 manifold.
front cab mounts ( the firewall mount and A pillar mount are tied together and the rear cab mount is a single post n each side
One of the head studs on the p***engers side showed a small leak; so I pulled the stud and put #2 Permatex on the bottom threads and installed it. I pulled the plugs on either side of the leaker and they looked good and clean and no sign of water in either cylinder.

 

Finally the video of my truck engine running. This is not the first run; I rebuilt the carb and swapped out some parts to get working idle mixture screws. This was the 3rd heat cycle. I can hear a little lifter noise on #4 with a stethoscope. I think it’s ok.

 

Sounds great Joel!!

 

Thanks, Sam. Now I want to drive it, but that's more than a year away.....probably.

 

Nice lope! Which cam is that Joel?

 

It's a re-grind. 1007B is the number, but I don't know who developed it. My block was factory relieved and I was wanting to keep as much compression as possible. I messaged @Pete for a recommendation on a cam and this was it. I think I mentioned that I didn't care about going above 4000 rpm. He also recommended a shop in Washinton state IIRC.

 

I've been moving stuff around for winter work/storage, however I did get to a small project. I started machining a new gauge insert for the truck. This will fit in the stock hole in the dash.
I am going to put a radius on the corners and maybe a 1/16 " one along the outside edge. I don't think I want a polished face; maybe engine turning would be ok. I know the 160 speedometer is out of place, but it matches the rest.

 

I like the cluster, but I think the gauges are too close to the outside to bevel the edge, you don't want them hanging off the side. It would look cool engine turned but consider polishing it first for a more dramatic effect. When I was a youngun, we would look at the speedo to see how fast the car was, I would be impressed by that one!

Another idea is to router a "panel stripe" between the gauges. And then you can add your indicator lights in those areas. Sorry for the crude example, AI is not my strong suit. Caution: I often come up with ideas that I cannot pull off. This may be one of them but if you know a guy with a CNC or water jet, easy peasy!

 

Thanks BB. I'm debating the small corner radius all around, but I think I need the 4 corners with a radius. The back side needs to be milled because the hole is 4 x 10 1/2 and the plate is 4 1/4 x 10 3/4.

 

I totally agree that the corners need to be radiused even if just a tad.

 

Here it is and mostly finished. I'm still thinking about texture or lack of on the face.
backside one end
backside other end trial fit...snug top left is fuel; bottom left oil pressure. Top right is volts; bottom right is water temp. I think it "tucks" in pretty well. Now I have to figure out how to attach the gauges . There is no room for any of the included u brackets. Merry Christmas everyone!

 

Looking good and Merry Christmas to you and your family!

 

You do nice work! If you made those holes snug enough just use silicon to glue them in. Just a dab L do ya. I attached my tach on the dune buggy with it in a speed boat styed mount, it takes a lot of abuse and is still rock solid.