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Projects '61 Falcon Street/Strip Gasser Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by brianf31, Nov 14, 2019.

  1. loveoftiki
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 9,178

    loveoftiki
    Member
    from Livonia,Mi

    Hell go get a 3M painters pad, an interface pad, some 1500 DA disc, and some 3000 and have that thing color sanded in no time
     
    41 coupe and brianf31 like this.
  2. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    Yeah that's how the pros do it.
     
  3. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    Her: "Does this thing even have A/C or cupholders?"

    Me: vent.jpg
     
  4. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,756

    bobss396
    Member

    Those were great, but a 16-ounce can was visible from the outside. The hack was to cut the tab off the holder and screw it to the door.
     
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  5. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    Awesome mod to hide a tall boy:D Those were prone to break on the top flange anyway so I just might have to try that.
     
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  6. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    Well it's color sanding time. I used 1000, 1500, 2000 and then 3000 grit. I read on here that you should use 3M 5000 grit Trizact on the last cutting stage so I tried it. Holy smokes! This won't take much effort with the buffer.

    5000 trizact 1.jpg
     
  7. lumpy 63
    Joined: Aug 2, 2010
    Posts: 3,381

    lumpy 63
    Member

    I know you had a mock up engine, what is finally going in?
     
  8. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    .040 over 460 with Kaase P-51 heads. It should come in around 625-650 hp on pump gas.
     
  9. lumpy 63
    Joined: Aug 2, 2010
    Posts: 3,381

    lumpy 63
    Member

    *****in
     
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  10. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    I like the look of headlining over a roll cage. I needed to install a dome light anyway so it made sense. I'm not planning on full interior, though.
    Headlining.jpg
     
  11. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    Windshield is in. I went with the clear gl*** instead of the green tinted stuff with the top shape band. It's less practical but has the vintage look.
    Windshield.jpg

    I'm having trouble with the back gl***, though. I pre-installed the trim but for the life of me, I'm not sure how to get the screws in the hidden flange holes. Tape marks show the screw hole location. Any tips? I'll make a separate post in hopes of more traffic.

    rear glass.jpg
     
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  12. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    Oh how I hate color sanding and buffing. It's done for now.
    Buffed.jpg

    Lexan windows are cut. I'll do the old seatbelt pull strap trick. Getting rid of the gl*** and scissor mechanism should save a total of 25 pounds or so.
    Lexan.jpg
     
  13. loveoftiki
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 9,178

    loveoftiki
    Member
    from Livonia,Mi

    Looks great….and yeah when you take the clear to 5000 ya can pretty much polish it with a t shirt and some compound
     
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  14. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    All buffed and washed. I'll bolt on the exterior stuff and then it's on to the header build.

    Buff2.jpg

    tubing.jpg
     
  15. Chief 64
    Joined: Dec 10, 2010
    Posts: 306

    Chief 64
    Member

    That turned out beautiful!!! Great job Brian!!!
     
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  16. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    Thanks!
     
  17. AmishMike
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 1,449

    AmishMike
    Member

    Who did u get the header kit from? What size & gauge tube? Looks like a good start
     
  18. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    Hedman stub flanges and Scheonfeld 18 gauge J-bends and U-bends, all from Summit. It was pretty expensive.
     
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  19. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,867

    -Brent-
    Member

    That color is awesome!
     
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  20. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    Thanks. It was the last color under 5 coats of Earl Scheib lacquer:D 1960 Ford Laurel Green.

    It's a metallic that looks very different depending on the lighting. I'm partial to the "inside the shop" color.
    Outside vs Inside.png
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2024
  21. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,867

    -Brent-
    Member

    I had Googled both 1960 and 1961 Ford mint green and it looks WAY different. Your car, though, looks great in both pics. I like the shop pic color better, too.
     
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  22. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    My Bumper To Bumper paint guys struggled on color matching by code or sample:D I'll shoot a photo of the paint can label when I get home.
     
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  23. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    Door paint code is S, which comes up as Mint Green. I see what you mean on the colors, though. Mint green looks way different.

    R-M paint chart.jpg

    The final color is very, very close to original paint I found under window trim and in the glove box. It looks closer to Laurel Green Iridium (paint code E) per this chart. Maybe the guy stamping the door plate messed up that day:D
     
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  24. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    Nice. I wished someone hadn't claimed Canned Monster before. That's an awesome throwback name.
     
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  25. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    I tried the old oven cleaner trick to remove the anodizing from the tail light trim but it didn't work that well. Instead, I started with a cleaning (buffing) compound meant for hard metals. The buffing wheel stripped the anodizing pretty well with that. I then progressed to finishing polishes meant for soft metals. It turned out OK.

    tail light trim.jpg
     
    bchctybob, mad mikey, brEad and 10 others like this.
  26. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    I jumped on the headers this weekend. Calculations say I need 34" primaries and 17" collectors. I'm using 2 1/8 primary tubes and 3 1/2" collectors.
    I used welding rod to model the tubing path.
    rod.jpg
    After much cutting and tack-welding, I got the left side roughed out. The headers look long but I kinda like 'em. Now to mirror for the RH side

    LH Header front.jpg

    Thru fender.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2023
  27. lumpy 63
    Joined: Aug 2, 2010
    Posts: 3,381

    lumpy 63
    Member

  28. loveoftiki
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 9,178

    loveoftiki
    Member
    from Livonia,Mi

    Very nice…wish I would’ve bought a bunch of those FL1-A’s…the new one are white with a little sticker on them..
     
  29. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    Yep, that's my last one. I keep it around for mock-ups.
    I have used the nostalgic Autolite decal on new filters: They are pricey, though.
     
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  30. brianf31
    Joined: Aug 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,048

    brianf31
    Member

    Well that was a lot of work. Now to TIG weld with some .040 rod.

    front.jpg

    RH.jpg
     

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