Ok, I need some solid guidance from the knowledge base as I've hit a crossroad in regard to my crossmember setup. I opted to use the F1 setup with F1 pedal set - still not sure if that was the best plan, but I'm determined to see it through now. I set the engine mount location up for adequate fan clearance and worked my way back from there for the crossmember location. Also have a spare cowl I mounted to check firewall clearance. I've noticed my trans mount location is a bit closer to the original crossmember than many others I've seen. I clearanced the torque tube opening and also mounted the bolt-on supports for the split bones. My biggest concern at this point is access to the clamshell assembly and speedo gear. Also think I may run into issues with access to my master cylinder (double reservoir). I'm out of room to move the trans mount up and don't really want to mess with the harmony of everything else. I figure at this point I can: Continue cutting on the original crossmember for access to for clamshell and master Take out the original crossmember and add some of Pinewood's K-Braces Change up the mounts for my bones to under frame/welded to move up trans mount, however the geometry is good where I'm at in regard to caster and tie tie rod over bones setup. Appreciate any input form you guys.
Just my .02 but I would consider spending the money on making it a K-member. It looks less redundant and function built rather than two crossmembers stacked on each other... The clearance issues vary between cars from what I've seen on builds and no one frame and firewall are the same. I don't have pictures but mine is similar to Pinewood's (just not as pretty lol). However, I don't see and real issue with what you have now as long as the pivot has range of movement and you can access what you need on the shell.
I used a 32 crossmember and avoided a lot of problems. Gave me Master cylinder mounting, 32 pedals, and rear transmission mount. All bolt together just like Henry.
I think you’ve got enough room with an open/ closed wrench to get at the clam shell stuff. Even better if you have removable floor boards. You’re not gonna be fucking with it all the time. If you wanted room for a ratchet you could make a little round notch in that flanged edge above it and call it a day I don’t see exactly how the master fits but I’m assuming rear facing? What kind of master it is will also play a factor but I think it’s workable with some imagination
I think you are right about a few minor cuts to the main crossmember. Master is a double reservoir, so access to that top cap/clip will be necessary, but as long as floor is removable, maybe this will work.
I am using a 65 Mustang fruit jar master cylinder. They fit well, and are about $50.00 on Rock Auto. Simple..
The 32 crossmember would be great.....if you can find one. Think I would remove the A bone crossmember ,and box a few inches of the frame where needed,and add a simple K member.You might even incorporate the master cylinder mount as part of it.
If you have removable floor boards and the lid can come off the master with out to much hassle You can fill the level with a funnel. I can’t remember what a stock A uses the big holes on top of that cross member for but one located over the master with a plastic/ rubber plug would make for an easy check and fill access/ sight hole. I think that You’re so far along that a little notch and clearance hole are probably the way to go. If you were starting fresh there’s probably a “better” way to do it but for the work required to change it I don’t know if it’s worth the small amount of ease to service you’d gain
I've done two flathead V8 A's with a tube crossmember I built with no problems, your trans is a little farther back but don't see a problem. I use a couple of wrenches to remove the clam shell and have a removable floor, my master cylinder is mounted on the crossmember.
Agreed Think I'm gonna take your advice and give it a whirl with some access cuts. Can always go another route afterward!
Looks good man, I’ve used it on my 29 roadster. Check out the one I made out of 3/16 plate. Can’t find the f-1 crossmembers right now. I’m building a 1930 coupe with flathead.
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