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Projects Fiberglass Door Advice

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Douglas R, Oct 16, 2023.

  1. Douglas R
    Joined: May 12, 2023
    Posts: 46

    Douglas R

    I've inherited a Fibergl*** Project and currently working on the doors as seen below. What material would be used to fill the "Gap" between the door frame and window gl*** channel? At first blush, I'm tempted to use "Expanding Foam" then shape with knife and cover with Fibergl***. Thoughts?
    Any and all advice from the pros are welcome.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. WZ JUNK
    Joined: Apr 20, 2001
    Posts: 1,913

    WZ JUNK
    Member
    from Neosho, MO

    It looks to me that you are missing the inner window trim that would surround the window opening on the inside of the door. I hope someone who knows more about this particular door can help you.
     
    Douglas R likes this.
  3. NJ Don
    Joined: Dec 25, 2019
    Posts: 261

    NJ Don
    Member

    Expanding foam could be pretty powerful and distort the existing fibergl***. Also, fibergl*** resin melts most foams. You must use urethane foam. If you decide to do some gl*** work over a base I'd recommend doing a test piece to see if it's compatible with the resin. Wood and cardboard work.
     
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  4. Splitbudaba
    Joined: Dec 30, 2014
    Posts: 940

    Splitbudaba
    Member

    PXL_20231016_145813126.jpg I have the same issue with my doors! I purchased a kit for the gl*** to ride in, aka fuzzies. I plan to make a fibergl*** channel to mount the fuzzies in. What ever thickness I need will determine what size plywood I will use to make a buck to lay up the fibergl***. A light coat of Bondo on the edge of the buck and several coats of gloss paint, Krylon works great. Apply a few coats of wax or wax paper and fibergl*** around the edges to form a channel. Make the sides larger than needed. Let it set up, pop it off and final shape as required. You can gl*** it in the door or make metal mounts and screw it in. Install the fuzzies and go.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2023
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  5. 34Phil
    Joined: Sep 12, 2016
    Posts: 716

    34Phil
    Member

    Are you planning a hinge in the window post?
     
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  6. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,693

    flynbrian48
    Member

    That looks to me like the door needs an inner panel to complete the channel and window frame area. All you have there is the outer skin, which needs to be completed. You could, with some effort, make a wood or MDF form and make the panels to complete the door. Or, if you don't want to do that, make a cardboard or MDF inner panel small enough to allow it to be skinned and just 'gl*** in place. It the top of the door needs additional structure to keep it's shape and withstand the gl*** going up and down against the stops, and stress from being slammed.
     
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  7. swade41
    Joined: Apr 6, 2004
    Posts: 14,474

    swade41
    Member
    from Buffalo,NY

    We had a local boat building supply store that sold all kinds of fibergl*** cloth, epoxies and resin, they also sold a fine powdered sawdust.
    You take the sawdust and mix it into your mixed resin to a peanut ****er consistency, spread it wherever you need it like spreading bondo to fill crevices.
    I used it on the t-bucket floor where the wood floor meets gl*** body almost 20 yrs ago and again on my truck about 5-6 yrs ago when making my own one piece tilt front filling a gap from fender to hood.
    Both pieces are still holding up great.

    20231016_145228.jpg
    20160817_181047_zpsnj3ttvzb.jpg 20160818_141205_zpsi1swdesc.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2023
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  8. Boatmark
    Joined: Jan 15, 2012
    Posts: 410

    Boatmark
    Member

    The product in question from the boat world is Cabosil, or you can also get micro balloons under several brands. You do not want to use foam. It both shrinks, and breaks down over time. Not an issue for most places we use it in boats, but bad for your application.

    Remember, resin has no inherent strength. It encapsulates the fibergl*** filaments. Resin and Cabosil is a good filler paste, and in some cases adhesive, but don’t be tempted to fill and use as the surface.
     
    Douglas R likes this.
  9. Douglas R
    Joined: May 12, 2023
    Posts: 46

    Douglas R

    Thanks Junk,
    Appreciate the info.
    I had no real baseline to go from. But, it does seem as if a inner window trim is missing.
    Again, thanks.
     
  10. Douglas R
    Joined: May 12, 2023
    Posts: 46

    Douglas R

    Great Advise Don.
    Test a little, learn a lot.
     
  11. Douglas R
    Joined: May 12, 2023
    Posts: 46

    Douglas R

    Splitbudaba,
    I like it.
    Looks like I need to make a buck for the interior window frame
     
    Splitbudaba likes this.
  12. Douglas R
    Joined: May 12, 2023
    Posts: 46

    Douglas R

    34Phil,
    Great Question,
    Yes. but, hinge already made and installed on outside door.
    Again, great question
     
  13. Douglas R
    Joined: May 12, 2023
    Posts: 46

    Douglas R

    flynbrian48,
    I believe you are absolutely correct.
    Seems I'm missing the inner panel to complete the window frame area.
    thus, will require a board/form to complete the frame.
    Appreciate the insight!
     
  14. Douglas R
    Joined: May 12, 2023
    Posts: 46

    Douglas R

    Swade41,
    Awwesome
     
  15. Douglas R
    Joined: May 12, 2023
    Posts: 46

    Douglas R

    Boatmark,
    thanks for product info and recommendation
     
  16. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 22,404

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    I needed to install some fairly wide filler panels on my FG deuce roadster.
    I'm not sure where it was suggested but went to a local shop that does custom fibergl*** shower enclosures, they had some cutoffs from a job that worked great for me.
    I thought I had a better photo, anyway, they are shown in white gelcoat next to my ABS door panels, yes, the door panels are finished because it's a no frills hot rod.



    DSCN1618.JPG
     
    A Boner and mad mikey like this.
  17. Splitbudaba
    Joined: Dec 30, 2014
    Posts: 940

    Splitbudaba
    Member

    Here's the trim that came with the kit. Doesn't look like the factory trim piece at all. But I think I can make it work and look like the other garnish moldings I already have trimmed to fit. I must lengthen the whole thing, and cut it to fit. This is nothing new for me. I bought a $3500 kit, what was I thinking? At least one buck will do both doors!!! PXL_20231019_223159084.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2023
    Douglas R likes this.
  18. Douglas R
    Joined: May 12, 2023
    Posts: 46

    Douglas R

    Nicely Done. Great Idea. Thanks
     
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  19. Douglas R
    Joined: May 12, 2023
    Posts: 46

    Douglas R

    LOL we share similar luck. Still, at least you have a baseline from which to start. Looks Nice
     
    Splitbudaba likes this.
  20. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 8,766

    RodStRace
    Member

    Splitbudaba likes this.
  21. Splitbudaba
    Joined: Dec 30, 2014
    Posts: 940

    Splitbudaba
    Member

    Thanks!!!
     
    RodStRace likes this.

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