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Technical 29 Ford Chevy 327 no radiator room headlight bar question

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Rogueman, Oct 24, 2023.

  1. Rogueman
    Joined: Jan 18, 2011
    Posts: 301

    Rogueman
    Member

    My friend put her 29 Ford open pickup through 5 strands of barb wire Sunday. Lucky she still has her head. Anyway we ordered a 4 core radiator with electic fan to replace the old one and guess what. the fan hit's the fan. Even if I pull the fan off the motor it will hit the water pump. I was thinking of just moving the radiator out, but it hits the headlight bar. I know longer hoses , relocate the bottom bolts, longer top rods, different headlight bar. Does anyone make a headlight bar that moves light forward? I'm trying to figure this out. probably easier to send back the radiator, but her souped up 327 has been running a little warm and really needs the help.
     
  2. lothiandon1940
    Joined: May 24, 2007
    Posts: 32,505

    lothiandon1940
    Member

    Sounds like you opened Pandora's Box. Was the old radiator the problem? Maybe not.
     
  3. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,397

    sunbeam
    Member

     
  4. Rogueman
    Joined: Jan 18, 2011
    Posts: 301

    Rogueman
    Member

    I have the old radiator, but wire pulled the shell into it and it's leaking at the top. I could have it rebuilt, but it's at two core. Probably seen the new one back and get a 3 core without a fan. I got to thinking it's to much trouble to move it and if she ever wants to run a hood , it wouldn't fit.
     
  5. Kevin Ardinger
    Joined: Aug 31, 2019
    Posts: 1,049

    Kevin Ardinger
    Member

    Does it have a short water pump on it? If not, maybe that would help. They also make an electric water pump. That’s pretty low profile.
     
  6. Rogueman
    Joined: Jan 18, 2011
    Posts: 301

    Rogueman
    Member

    yes brand new short pump.
     
  7. SS327
    Joined: Sep 11, 2017
    Posts: 3,955

    SS327

    What about if you ditched the electric fan? They usually don’t pull near enough cfm anyway. I’d rather keep the 4 core and do whatever it takes to make it work.
     
  8. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,730

    flynbrian48
    Member

    Wait, what? "...the fan hits the fan..." It's got an electric puller fan? It doesn't need two fans, just get a shroud for the engine driven fan.
     
  9. What kind of fan is on the engine? Clutch fan or stock four blade? If it's a flex fan throw that flex fan in the trash and get a stock four blade. Bolt on no spacer. And ditch the electric fan.
     
  10. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,397

    sunbeam
    Member

    I have a Moroso SBC electric water pump on my 270 dodge hemi it only 4.5 inches long which is shorter than a short chevy pump
     
  11. 05snopro440
    Joined: Mar 15, 2011
    Posts: 3,045

    05snopro440
    Member

    Ultimately, I'm sure you realize the problem is you're trying to upgrade to a thicker radiator and fan combo without sufficient prior research and with the engine already placed. The right answer rather than mucking with the headlight bar, rad placement, and all that other stuff is to either go to a thinner rad or move the engine back (big can of worms).

    If you wanted a headlight bar that moves the lights forward, you'll be building it yourself.
     
    X38 likes this.
  12. Rogueman
    Joined: Jan 18, 2011
    Posts: 301

    Rogueman
    Member

    Yes I know the problem. Motor is not getting moved. I kinda think we will pull the electic fan and see how the 4 core fits without it. There is just so much room in a 29
     
    SS327 likes this.
  13. 05snopro440
    Joined: Mar 15, 2011
    Posts: 3,045

    05snopro440
    Member

    Yep, which is why you need to be cautious when making changes like going to a thicker rad.
     

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