I'm in a debate with myself about a transmission change. I'd like to put a 200-4R in place of my current Muncie 4 speed my avatar car. SBC 327 nearly stock. Idles easily at 650 rpm. Questions: Will a TH350 flexplate work with the 200? I have both a 153 tooth and a 168 tooth on hand. Does the 200 require a special torque converter, or is it interchangeable with a TH350 or a powerglide? What kind of fluid does the 200 use? I'm sure more questions will arise if I proceed with this. I'm aware of the difference in trans mount location; I can handle that. THanks in advance. .bjb
The 200 will need its own Torque converter. And it uses regular transmission fluid like dextron mercon. Either flex plate will work as long as the holes match The torque Converter bolt pattern.
If you're putting this in a 34 Ford, be prepared to do significant firewall, cross member and floor modifications. It won't fit in the stock space.
It's a 34 Chevy. Right now it has an Ansen ****tershield so the bellhousing area should be ok. I think my floor is high enough to clear, fingers crossed. That's why I'm thinking about the 200-4R instead of the 700R4. .bjb
Hi, I have a 2004r in my 34 Chevy 2 dr sedan. It had a th350 in it before the swap.It does take a lock up torque convertor. Good luck.
You DO NOT...need a lockup converter IF...you use a proper, quality radiator (cooler). The flat tube type is the best at cooling trans. fluid. Call Art Carr, he'll verify, and set you up if you don't already have a trans. He's been building these for many...years. He's got three levels of build to choose from. All are dyno tested before shipping. https://www.cpttransmission.com/ Mike
TP cable working correctly is top priority , 100 miles without or improper adjustment , spells burnt smell that usually means trash trans
I’m trying a 200-4r in my 32 Tudor build and it’s the first ***** stick in a pre 40 hot rod for me. Always thought a hot rod should have three pedals, but my knees ain’t what they used to be so I thought I’d give it a try. Must admit my knees love it. Used all the upgrade hardened/billet parts to handle the +400 hp so it wasn’t cheap. And it’s been a dang interesting learning experience. My recommendation would be to use a lock up converter and for sure supplemental cooling (over the usual lower rad tank). I understand the non-lock up argument, just didn’t fit my build/use. Read up on all the tips and tricks, as there are numerous ones to save you pain.
Thanks for all the great information. Does anyone know if any original 200-4R equipped cars came with a floor shift. I'd rather have an OE GM looking one than any B&M or Lokar styles. thx, .bjb
If you don’t find an oem, try here. https://shiftworks.com/collections/nova-products/products/1962-64-nova-chevy-2-smoothie-shifter I just picked an on topic car as an example. Some cases it’s a whole shifter, some cases you can buy parts to up grade an existing one to the 4 gear pattern. Not cheap, depending on how you go about it. I’ve also been able to modify powerglide and 350 shifters to work. Might not get 1st gear, and might have to make some mods for the neutral start and/or backup lights. 2004 R’s are great transmissions properly built. Great ratios.
There should be an abundance of bucket seat floor shift shifter donors that came with that transmission. 86-87 Monte Carlo is one of them. I'm pretty well in the same boat. I've got an AX-15 plus Novak adapter to go behind my 292 in my 48 but my left knee goes on strike every time I drive the Ford F250 or Chevy 1 ton with 4 speeds. A heavy clutch is no longer going to cut it for lengthy driving and being able to get out and walk when I get there.
They make a manual-valve body for the 200R ? Problem solved !! My parts chaser P'up came with a 4L-60 non-computer (91-4.3...there...I said it !) Great ****** except.....the governor needs to be modified so it won't shift into 2nd gear at 10 mph ! Maybe stretch the RPM range in the other gears too. I realize GM did it because of "gas mileage" **** but it really shifts too soon into 2nd &3rd gear. Has the 4th gear OD and lock-up converter ****** is bullet proof for mild HP builds. 6sally6
But why? The reason that there are lock-up-less versions is that the input shaft and clutch are too weak for high torque applications. The OP has no need to throw away the benefits of a lock-up converter.
I put one in a 64 Chevy pick-up. Great transmission. Lonnie Deers at Performance Automatics out of Ohio builds them from mild to wild. https://extremeautomatics.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=89_79 The detent cable setup isnt as hard to set up as you hear - https://www.1952chevytruck.com/street_demon_200r4_setting_the_TV_dent_cable.htm
We adjusted shift points to a better (higher) range on our 200R4 in our '59 El Camino. Need to trim governor weight to do it. Luckily these governors are (used to be?) dirt cheap. We got a couple on the internet 10 yrs ago for less than $15 each. Here is the mods we made. Made to mimic the ones on Grand National Buicks. black pen shows the t******* we did on the weights on the right. Modified one on the left/ Another t******* view. Remove this bias spring, equivalent to more weight removal. They recommend brazing a nail stub into this hole to capture the remaining spring. I guess the tend to jump out on hard shifts.
Someone mentioned that a "lockup" converter IS needed. I just countered with it is "not" a requirement, that's all. Mike