Technical Embarrassing gasoline smell

94s like 97s been dualing for the checkered flag all through the Hamb period...both are a force...have quirks of their own and of course there are more modern alternatives. I hear you...

 

I haven't seen much discussion here about leaks. What kind of checking have you done regarding that? See the link below for one way to trace leaks to the source.
Next question: Does the gas/fuel/exhaust smell only happen when you are rolling? It seems like that's what you are saying because you mentioned that your grandkids don't like going for rides because of the smell. (You also mentioned exhaust smells because of your too-short tailpipes so maybe that's what the kids are objecting to.) It's possible for a large quan***y of exhaust fumes at the axle area to swirl against the general air flow and make its way in the side windows.
Or...... does the garage/shop have a smell of fuel after having gone for a ride? This is more likely a "leak".

https://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Fuel-Systems-Ounce/dp/B002M4G24U#:~:text=Certified A/C Pro Oil,there might be a leak.
..

 

Put a vacuum gauge on it; you need to be sure that the power valves are not opening at idle...

 

there is a smell when I shut down and turn off. Since my build is not yet complete, I am going to look into this I get it where I'm happy with the project.
it's the odiferous nature of the exhaust while rolling down the road, that somehow I don't remember it being an issue my dad or granddads had to deal with, prior to cats.

again, I've lurked on some threads where folks with flatheads say they're completely happy with the exhaust.
I just want to get out of the cab and my wife doesn't get high smelling my shirt. (that's an exaggeration)
too-short...the only alternative is to have exits under the running boards. there is no extending them past the bed. Form follows function.
Thank you The Shift Wizard!

 

wouldn't that mean the idle circuit is never in play? So help me here...please. what's the response I'm looking for, on the gauge, to tell if the power valve is opening prematurely.

 

on the leak issue, I've checked front to back numerous times and I double check it if I'm under doing other things...like dropping the drive shaft or adjusting the e-brake. so the number of times I've checked the fuel line is in the dozens of times.

 

thank you to everyone who responded with their thoughts. I can't thank you all enough for the quick replies.
it's WAY more information and tips than I had before.
Thanks folks.

 

The vacuum at idle has to be higher than the opening point of the power valves (think you said yours are 6.5's) otherwise the valves will be dumping fuel; nothing to do with the idle circuit. And, you need to be aware that modern Holley power valves have slightly different gasket surfaces than the old ones did and sometimes won't seal well in the old carbs, again causing fuel to dump.

Lots of info. about this issue on the HAMB and Fordbarn... this is the first one I came across.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/holley-94-problems-and-power-valve-gaskets.345227/

 

Where is the fuel fill, tank in the cab? totally out side the cab? Check fuel fill flex connections. Check fuel gauge sender gasket, or the sender it self. Gas tanks stink on their own.

 

^^^ THIS! ^^^

Yardbird1 is pointing you in the right direction.

Buy or borrow a vacuum gauge. You need to know the manifold vacuum at idle to help determine which power valves you need. It will also help you to tune for a low(er) smooth idle speed. And you can even use it to check fuel pump pressure.

Do you have another non-Loadamatic distributor with a working vacuum advance?

 

Thank you.

 

No sir I do not.

 

The rear between the frame rails. Thank you for the reply.

 

Yes i do. It is set to 1.5 psi. Thank you. Yes i smell gas in the oil (my mistake, I checked the oil twice since starting this and it is still opaque and does not have any gas smell) Not real strong but it’s there nonetheless.

 

Wow Stogy that is a great point. Wow im a noob. The truck doesn’t handle well at highway speeds so im saving my Hot Rod Lincoln moment for when she’s better tuned. Let me get my nerve up. Lol. That is a great insight.

 

You say your regulator is set to 1.5 psi...but is there a dial pressure gauge on it or separate from it that shows that?

The Mister Gasket regulator was set to 1.5 on mine and the separate pressure gauge said 5psi...you cant trust those are giving what they're saying...

Even the new Holley one I'm using requires a separate dial pressure gauge to verify it's pressure...





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Ruled Out!

 

Thank you for the double check. I have a fluid filled pressure gauge verifying the output. I replace the gauge about every three years since i rebuilt the motor.
It is time to replace it. Thanks for the head’s up. Adding it to my list.

 

Stogy you were asking about the worthiness of being on HAMB.
Here is the picture from Monday when i got the truck back from the paint shop and the interior.




and the motor


fyi.

 

I don't like those regulators. I would recommend a Holley 12-804. It is what I run on my flathead.

 

Jerry, love those ole trucks...another thing in my pics you can see the fuel line I used it says bio fuel compatible...don't know if that is the best but it seems to work well for me...

 

I finally got mine on...I disguised it a little though...

 

with the pressure gauge, it has been behaving fine for me. I appreciate the input. Patrick, of Patrick's, did the setup and that's from whom I purchased the fuel block kit. I will consider putting this in my list, but I haven't found an issue with this one, and I check it ALL the time. thanks again.

 

So I read the thread (and thank you for the link) and I ran these traps already, I also found in my time rebuilding these things, that the modern Holley PV windows are exposed allowing a leak by.
The difference isn't that the modern Power Valves have different gasket surfaces, it's that they have a fillet in them that won't allow them to fully seat.
I called Charlie, (long before he stopped answering the phone) and I talked with him for a few minutes and he convinced me to use his machined sharp edge PVs. the performance difference was immediate. So yes, I chose to go with Vintage Speed. I uncovered that myself, Charlie didn't need to tell me that.
Like I said I've been through these carbs a number of times, if this situation persists I'm going to go with a 4 barrel and go with what I know. thank you for your input. I am listening.

 

duly noted. thank you for your input.

 

I used NGK plugs, the GM Mechanic I was going to have set things up said at least put in AC plugs as he stands by them 100%...I bought some at a swap NOS for a buck a piece...but the NGKs seem okay to me...The Japanese know their ****...I'll leave it at that. I will change them out for that tune up next year though...This mechanic has went all over Canada and the US in his Rides...He is well accredited with being a real good engine guy...I believe it...

 

Something to add to your list is tail pipes long enough to get the exhaust out from under the truck. Mine used to dump right behind the drivers side tire, up in the fender where you couldn't see it. I extended it out the rear just past the bumper, this helped quite a bit when at traffic lights.

 

My rule for Holley 94's starts with the power valves.

Most of them that folks use left on a Ford engine, as a single, with a 7.5in-Hg. power valve.

For multiples, each needs to have a power valve that is 7.5 divided by the number of carburetors.

For duals, that would need to be 3.75in-Hg. About as close as you can get is 3.5.

$25+shipping to find out: https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Holley-94-Power-Valve-35-HG--70-435_p_3785.html

You are over enriching.

 

So Gimpy, these power valves at the link you shared have the Radius...one would have to have a machinist turn that down...maybe I'm blind and it's not there...

What is the deal there anyway with that rad, did Holley stop making the correct power valves for 94s?

Thanks for that breakdown of determining the in-hg...That helps understand by principle...

 

As it has been suggested, (temporartily, if you want) install a wide band 02 sensor and eleminate all the guess work. If you want to go back strictly traditional, remove it after you get the tuning correct. It will make a world of difference and not just on the fumey exhaust smells. You will thank yourself.