Technical ***November 2023 Banger Meet Thread - Shopping Season***

I’m installing new motor mount rubbers in my 31. I’m looking at 1/4 inch I need to spread the frame to do the install. After everything is in place the frame width is 1/8 inch wider than when the mounts are out. Is there a “normal” amount of spread needed to install the mounts? Would excessive side force change felt vibration of the engine?

 

I hate to disagree with John, but -- as I remember about 65 years ago -- when I'd installed twice cabonizers (complete with a pull wire for the copilot in the passenger seat) and a Cyclone head, too -- after about 30 seconds running, the No. 4 piston decided to stay up top for some reason.

(Where was this so-called babbit, anyway?)

 

Most problems with babbitt is how it was poured and machined. Properly done, its pretty durable, even with increased compression ratios. Just like a crappy insert job..........

 

So, if I've translated your cute slang correctly, you're saying that you put on two carbs without linkage and 30 seconds later you had a rod or piston failure.

Sorry, I'm not multi-lingual, is that close?

 

Yep. I got better after turning 17.
(Don't forget the Cyclone head might have figured in.)

 

Dan
you are correct a poor job done does not discern between technologies

I just don’t have the resources to repair Babbitt
J

 

Babbit was used on diesel engines at 19 to 1 compression ratio. The hydrodynamic principle applies to inserts or babbit, failing to keep them maintained leads to failure. putting performance parts on the top of an engine without checking the bottom gives babbit a bad name.

 

Winfield carbs flow tested !

Anyone who’s been around me knows I’ve been a big fan of Winfield carbs and equipment for years. I’ve always wondered what the actual CFM of the Winfield carburetor were . Of course we all shared old tech articles, comparison tests and seat of the pants data. Well , I met this fellow Joe Abbin at the LA Roadsters show and come to find out he is wicked knowledgeable about blown flatheads and flow testing. He owns Road Runner engineering in Albuquerque NM. He agreed to Flow test a couple of Winfield Carburetors for me so we could get a base line on CFMs. Based on the data , the SRCCs on my coupe are big for the 21stud flathead but I’ve tuned them in and they’ve been working great for over 10yrs , so all is not lost. I’ll never change them because I cannot get over on how good they look with those D size choke horns. That’s hot rodding . Enjoy .

 

How would I keep mine maintained, apart from oil changes and occasionaly taking the odd shim out?

 

It’s interesting that he flowed the carbs at 1.5”… but glad y’all went thru this effort. Here is the flow estimations that I calculated after flowing my S-B. The S-B is actual flow data at 3”, all others are assuming the efficiency of the venturi is constant

 

You are maintaining the babbit by doing just that. Engine oil loses its ability to support the crankshaft when the clearance is beyond tolerance.. on a 1.5” crankshaft journal the clearance to maintain the cushion is .0015.. modern engine oils allow some leeway but that figure is the ruling parameter.Exceed that clearance and the babbit itself is threatened,although the cushion effect might still occur it will not be as robust. The picture explains what occurs way better than I can, you can see if the clearance is exceeded the bearing is subject to wear.. it’s why you see a worn bearing instead of a catastrophic failure.

 

One thing to keep in mind with Babbitt is the quality of the material itself
Yes diesels have/do run Babbitt but this is a very specific type material
The original Ford Babbitt is very good do every thing you can to keep it if possible
Some/most of the poor jobs done I have encountered are material related and the pouring process done poorly
I had the opportunity to look at a turbo OHV bottom end on Babbitt and c crank after many Bonneville runs
It is a testament to proper job and full pressure oiling

J

 

Finally, after a long slumber and years of neglect, I decided to try and get something done on my Alexander head!


I talked to the owner of Center Street Machine in Kingsport and 1) he was amazed that such a thing existed and 2) that I had found all the modern pieces to restore it. Since I was installing a new engine that he had built (and I had won) in my 40., I decided to trust him to do the needed machine work.
He was so impressed with it, he sent pictures to his buddies! His shop assistant was also impressed, as both he and the Alexander were born the same year, 1938 !

He cut out the old valve seats installed new seats and ground them to fit the new 1.88” BBC exhaust valves. ALL the old seats were different widths and heights, as were the old valves. Then he trimmed the valve guides to the same height, (all were different) and machined new spring seats to fit the new Ford valve springs’ diameter. The stock 1.88” Chevy valves are the correct stem length and use stock spring retainers and keepers.




Next is rebush the early Chevy rockers, and install them, the Ford 2.3 valve springs and the new rocker shaft and stands that I made years ago.
Then new studs and the intake and side cover.
More to come as time and money allow.
.

 

Interesting head, how many of these were made?
Given the birth date & parts used were these made in the 60's/70's? The inlet ports are peculiar. What carbs are they designed for?

 

In the book Flat Out by Albert Drake there's a 1935 photo of that head on a T modified called the Alexander Special. Also a program list shows that head being used 1939 on the dry lakes. Was made by Colonel Alexander. It's a very rare head, only one I ever saw was owned by the person I got my Riley from.

 

Well not to be surprised
I cannot remember this gentleman’s name but he was making the Alexander heads some time ago
This pic from Bville in 2018

 

Well, I don’t have any doubt that this is an original one.
I bought it probably 40 (!) years ago from a guy in Ocala FL who had it on a Model A and grenaded the block.

@Outback. The late model parts were chosen by me as replacements for the original pieces that were on it, after hours of measuring and cross referencing dimensions and specs in the back of parts books.

It has the original intake manifold, designed for a single Winfield downdraft. Alexander also made a double similar to this for V-8’s.
I’m making a two carb intake to run 81’s.


It originally had a mismatched set of valves and springs, which have been replaced with the 2.3 Ford and BBC pieces
It has the original spark plug hole plugs to block off four of the eight. Dual plugs per cylinder.
It has the original 34 Chevy 6 cylinder exhaust rocker arms for both intake and exhaust. I had to make a new shaft and stands. Originals were beyond use.
It has the original smooth rocker cover and spark plug side cover. Early covers were smooth top and later were finned like Cragar.
Holes for the three bolt water pump are brazed closed.
It very closely matches the dressed out one in the Speedway Museum.

I have copies of the original sales brochures.

Here’s a pic from somewhere that shows one from England, I believe

And here’s an original from the late 30’s

 

Thanks, when I had the pan off for cleaning (very little sludge and no sparkles in there) I had a good look and gave them all the push pull and wiggle test, and all felt good and tight so I went no further.

For peace of mind I'll take the caps off to do a proper check at the next oil change.

 

I second that, it doesn’t hurt to be sure. I run a Murray Horn harmonic balancer and a lube line to the center main prior to the full flow filter ( gain a little pressure from filter restriction) with my stock A crank to help support the center main. The balancer helps dampen the ‘tuning fork’ effect the crank has at higher rpm that leads to center bearing failure.. I have a pair of diamond B long blocks and was going to build one till Terry Burtz pointed out the Ford counter balanced crank is actually only 40% counterbalanced, so I bought one of his engines..

 

When I found out mine is a diamond B block with pressure fed mains, it made me happy.

 

These two cars turned up in my search for Alexander info.
They were featured in a Hemmings Muscle Machines article back in 2018, and are owned by Ken Gypson of New York.
The #2 car has an Alexander B, and its stablemate #65 has a HAL DOHC.
Unfortunately the article neglected to have any engine pictures!!
If anyone has engine pics, please post them. Or contact info for Ken Gypson, Poestenkill, NY.
Apparently he is a well known car guy.
Thanks!

 

I have a basically bone-stock A drivetrain with the Tillotson, which I have now finally gotten dialed. Drives great now, but I would like to bump up the "comfortable cruising speed" a bit...

What are the most cost effective ways to bump up the cruising speed? When I bump up the performance of the motor, that will keep the RPM's at speed the same, wouldn't it? Do the '39 trannies have a gearing more suited to higher speeds?

Sadly, a Mitchell OD is out of the question....

 

You can’t increase speed without increasing RPMs unless you change the rear gear, or add OD. Or maybe just get larger diameter tires.

 

That is my line of thought. Do people re-gear banjos ever?

 

What gear is in your rear end now? Nothing is free- lower gear, higher speed but reduced pulling ability without more HP................its a balancing act for sure. Any hills where you plan to drive??

 

I'm sure it would be the 3.78, it will cruise down city streets at 50mph no problem and still has more juice in the tank.

I'm from Nevada, so I would like to have the ability to take it on a serious road trip at some point, but the West is big country as you know and I don't want it sitting at 2,600rpm on the highway for 8 hours... for 5 days in a row.

I will absolutely hop up the motor once the parts hunting phase is over. If I could ultimately get her to where she can cruise at 60-65mph without me feeling like I'm going to blow the engine up, I'll be pretty happy.

 

Good luck…..

Personally I’d recommend tires and engine mods before changing from 3.78 gears. Maybe 3.54’s would be ok, but I think you’d be sorry around town.

 

Get one of the overdrive boxes to install behind your trans (the names of which elude me at the present)...used in Ts and As....

Mitchell is one such trans, others are available used....

 

Laycock or Borg Warner OD's were popular over the years
Best money is a Mitchell or convert to T5

J

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...eed-transmission.1281128/page-2#post-14769445