Technical How do you "clock" plumbing fittings?

Thank you! Great suggestions that I had not thought about doing. It sure beats buying a bunch of fittings and trying all of them until I find one that has the thread aligned in the direction I want the elbow to go.

 

I have done that for one of the fittings until I decided it was too expensive to do it for all of them. The fittings I am dealing with are all right angle with NPT threads on one side and A/N fittings on the other end, in pairs of three different sizes. That gets expensive pretty quick!

 

Here is a shot of the in-tank fuel pump. The red plugs are where the 90 degree elbows go. They are 1/4" NPT to the pump and -6 A/N to the hard lines on the top of the photo. I want to use braided flex line between the pump and the hard lines (pressure line to the engine & return line to the tank). Currently, (although not shown in this photo) the right angle elbow installed into the fuel pump don't come close to facing the correct direction (toward the hard lines) and actually come out of the fuel pump facing toward the side or even the opposite direction.

 

Good point. The manufacturer of the fuel pump identifies the fittings as NPT.

 

There are a lot of ways to get where you want to go, but some will be trial and error. Find a good hydraulic hose and fitting house and take your problem to them. Buy their JIC fittings for about 60% of what you've got invested in AN fittings, and have a better selection to boot! Look for Parker or Aeroquip. Good luck.

 

Red locktite is your friend on NPT fuel fittings

 

Unless the current clocking is in absolutely the wrong place, I'll say somewhere between 6 and 8 oclock, it would seem to be easy to just fashion short tubes with some bends. Looks like some nice work.

I'd say take the non-conforming NPT fitting along with you and return to the store. Note where the thread ends (clocking) in relation to the output end, and see if there are any that have a thread that ends in a different clockwise location. You should not need or use any type of sealant with copper thread fittings. One thing I would say about trying to retap a hole (in the fuel pump) is that if you get it slightly too big, there is no way to repair it. I'd try doing it on another fitting before I tried it on the finished part. Best is just finding another fitting that will work.

Is there enough room to just completely retap the hole to accept a larger AN fitting and get away from the NPT?
Looks like you do some very nice work there.......... Got any pictures of that rear sway bar set-up?

 

If you front use some sort of pipe dope/ paste on pipe fittings , you will most certainly gall the threads. Then you have more troubles . Theres a reason unions/ swivel fittings were invented , if off the shelf doesn't fit your design , change your design , far simpler way to move along .

 

This is why a solenoid style clicker pumps Turn the key on it will click a few times and stop If it keeps on clicking you need to look for a leak.

 

I use the Aeromotive in tank Stealth 340 pump ,
( Holley & few other r set up that way) fitting are O ring come out the sides @ 10 & 2 o'clock return or vent @ 12 pressure ,
I also would use PTFE hose to connect to yr hard line to pump , even Good ethanol hose will break down in few years sending rubber threw system ,

 

That makes more sense!

Looking at your pic AND post, there are far better lines than Braided. I like a HD Gates hose my local supplier sells. They make an NPT 90 degree swivel fitting that would solve your problem. You could even hardline it, which is better

 

I turn back my fittings in the fall.

Red lock tite, turn em where you want em. I am pretty anal when it comes to his kind of stuff.

 

Those are NPS threads, vs. NPT. The "S" is for straight. A much harder to find fitting, and both the male and female threads are a little different.

Note that English and European taper thread fittings will be BSPT aka ISO taper (British Standard Pipe Taper) which is slightly different from NPT. The thread angle is a little different, and the pitch is different on some sizes. For instance NPT is 1/8-27 while BSPT is 1/8-28.

People jam them together all the time, and it generally works. But it's not right, at least not for my Riddler (or is that Riddled with Rust) cars. Not right sealing threads = possible leaks.

 

Ford's method with the O-ring and nut is one approach, but as you mentioned, it might not be ideal for all situations.
You're absolutely right that using the correct thread type and ensuring a proper seal is crucial to prevent leaks. It's essential to be mindful of the differences between NPT and BSPT threads.
If you're interested in plumbing and want to learn more, there are plenty of helpful resources that share info on how to become a plumber. You can check out this link for more insights: https://www.howtobecomeaplumber.org/

 

Worked in aircraft manufacturing for 40 years, we had multiple fittings that we would try until we had the correct orientation, sometimes it would take over an hour to find the right combinations.
World class.

 

I hope I understand the question. But there is a tendency of most people to way over tighten NPT fittings. When you crank them down until you can’t turn them anymore or you’re on the verge of breaking the fitting that leaves little room for aligning the fitting. Typically NPT fittings only require screwing the fitting in finger tight then 1 1/2 to 3 full turns depending on fitting size. If the hole is tapped properly, the hole and fitting clean that is all that is required. Your mileage may vary!

The following is a good informative article. https://www.surpluscenter.com/images/techhelp/npt.pdf

 

I’ll run a ell in as far as I can hand tight then a proper wrench to tight in the right orientation

 

To address this, try gradually tightening the fitting, starting by hand and increasing torque slowly with a wrench. Using a thread sealant or lubricant on the male threads can reduce friction and make the fitting easier to turn. If you're looking for plumbing job leads, using flexible connectors or hoses to allow for adjustment can be advantageous. Experiment with different fitting types, such as swivel or rotating fittings, and consider the possibility of variations in thread pitch or angle between brands.

Thin, hardened washers can be used if necessary, but be cautious about their impact on sealing. Slightly warming the fitting can make it more pliable, but exercise extreme caution to avoid injury or damage. As a last resort, consider seeking help from a professional plumber, especially if you're seeking additional plumbing job leads.

 

I either use pipe dope, or teflon tape, and I test fit them before applying either so I know how close they'll be. Then once I know I can apply extra sealant to ensure it helps seal the fitting before it gets pointed where I want it to be.

 

Actually, there are NPT hex nuts.
https://www.google.com/search?q=npt...VNM9suq_nNIE5P3m&uact=5&oq=npt+hex+nuts&udm=2
And you are correct on the O-rings.

 

Fixed many a NH3 leak where steel to steel fittings needed to align and seal tightly
teflon tape and anti seize on the male fitting.....a couple wraps of tape and then some anti seize on top

 

Depends on what you're using and what material it's going on. Permatex Thread Sealant has never galled for me on the proper materials.

Exactly, O rings for straight thread. Jic 37 deg and Sae 45 deg