I haven’t put up any pics for awhile, so winter is starting and my outdoor projects are on hold and I’m working on the 40. I got the dash metal work done for the gauges and ready for high build primer. Switch over to door gaps and door body work. This is after the first round of adding to the doors.
I’m back on it. Been cleaning and priming a bunch on small parts. Remade the lower panel on the cab and doing some metal work on the lower cab corner I replaced a while back. I’ve been getting use to the new shrinking disk I purchased. Tomorrow I start on replacing the belt line with new metal from TS coach works.
had a few delays. But got the belt line cut out and the New metal tacked in. Also made new rails that go from the floor to the back cab stiffener. But made them bolt in.
I finally finished welding in all three of the TS coach works panels. This was my first Tig welding project. I’m pretty happy. Now I need to do another round of planishing of the finish welds.
Took a break from hammer and dolly work today. My dash chrome trim is trashed, so I made new ones. Still need some fine tuning and finishing.
1/2” half round Aluminum from McMaster Carr. My old ones fit great but rusted. So used them as a guide as I bent the Aluminum ones. I did so tests with some s****s for the rounding of the ends and for drilling the back sides for mounting 6-32 1/4” long. I think I’m going to round the ends in the center of the dash also.
I've got a similar situation coming up. The Autocar cab has a couple style lines that appear to be mounted in the pinch-weld on the nose. The originals are stamped sheetmetal, but making new ones out of sheet looks like a can of worms. Maybe your method would be easier.
It might work, but with the bends or curves that you’ll need to make. You will need to anneal the aluminum first. It’s not hard to do as long as you have a torch.
After my other post, I looked at MMC and they sell a "half oval" in mild steel that is closer to the shape I need, 3/4" wide and 3/16" thick. If I use that, I can heat and bend it quite easily. You got me to thinking and I thank you for that!
Got the lead out so to speak. Removed the cracked old lead, welded the seam and filled with metal to metal. Letting it set for a few days then finish .
back to work on the 40, scored a efi fuel tank at the Summit Racing scratch and dent. Mounts made up tomorrow paint and install.
Here’s some progress pics. Put the cab back on for the winter, and started test fitting the new to me fenders. Had to extend the front of the bottom step to match the fender opening. Also made some new step to frame brackets .
Looks awesome... Are those stock fenders for your model year or will you have to put your creative talents to work fitting the grille and hood?
Yes as far as I can tell, they’re 39/40 fenders. The wheel opening is a little smaller than the 40 fenders that came on the truck. It was a pretty easy fix. As you can see in my avatar pic the ones that came with the truck were pretty trashed.
I haven’t posted in a while. Got the under bed box’s mounted, the driver side is for what ever and the p*** side has the compressors, tank, manifold, battery and hydraulic pump. Today cut out the treads for the upper step.
In the last couple of days, mixed some Raptor liner up with a tint the local paint supplier made ( AL Pavey ) super nice to work with. I really like this stuff! The color looks closer in person. !
Anything worth having is worth the time it takes " Gramma said.... actually she was talkin' bout my girlfriend, " said: "Anything worth having is worth waiting for. """
More things figured out ( like steering linkage with the new column) putting all the brake system back on to finish brake and power steering and booster line. Then radiator and mounts. Oh and access in floor for fuel tank pump .
The Jalopy Journal
