Technical Model A or 32 chassis

I haven’t posted on here in for ever. However, I just bought a 30 Model A 5 window coupe. What are the advantages and disadvantages of running a Model A or 32 chassis? Was looking at Blackboard or Boiling brothers. 283 with a 4 spd. Is what I’m planning on running.

 

Extra wheelbase of the 32 gives more room in the engine compartment but mounting the body is considerably more work. The Model A offers simplicity and the option to run fenders, the body will just plop on and go.

 

Full fendered or hiboy?

 

As Flatout51 said. The A frame is flat, as is the bottom of the A body, so they marry. The 32 frame is not flat.

General FYI: all A coupes are 5 window, so saying that is redundant.
(Yes, yes, there is the sports coupe, but that is a different beast)

 

My 31 roadster is on an A frame and if I had it to do again I would do it on the 32 frame just for the extra 3 inches you get over the A frame. That room helps out a lot when you do your clutch linkage and exhaust if you run a V8.

 

I have a 32 Brookville chassis pinched for Model A. Not a bad choice although if I was to do it again I’d use a Pete & Jakes 32 frame. But as @DDenny asked full fendered or hi boy is the first choice. A stock A frame without fenders is more of a nostalgia hop up. With the 32 frame it’s more of a hot rod. IMHO

 

If going to a 32 frame get one purpose built for the A body and your final engine/transmission/diff. RJays makes some really nice well priced chassis. If I needed one thats where I would be going.

 

A frame = older/earlier more mechanical look…way easier to build. Can accommodate fenders.
32 frame = slicker looking…way more work to build…if laws tighten up and fenders become required equipment, you’re sort of screwed.
If done right, either look great.

 

Nothing wrong with a full fendered model A. A few years ago I did a chassis for a customer that used a flat front cross member, deep c notch, 5 inch axle, low reversed eye spring, hairpins. 2 inch kicked up frame in the rear with 13.5 long coil overs mounted to P&J's triangulated 4 bar assembly & upper shock mounts. With the right tire combination it sat in the weeds, was drive able and looked bitchin.

 

Local car, not even chopped (but it does have a blown small block) What's not to like?

 

I went with a model a frame for mine. Was always planning on running the fenders. It is cramped for room. But with some tinkering and sometimes trial and error, I have been making it work.

If you decide to go without fenders, take a look at Walden Speed. Last time I was there Bobby was showing us a 32’ frame but for a model A body to drop on.

 

Blackboard had 32 frames that were pinched and Model A ready. That was may biggest thing was I wasn’t sure what you had to do to make a 32 frame fit. But if all you gotta do is drop it on that helps a lot.

 

Thanks I will check them out. What was the hardest problem you had with the Model A frame?

 

You know I never paid attention about Model A’s only being 5 window. Thanks

 

I’m using a SoCal frame with their “K” member. Working around that has been a little frustrating. Getting the clutch linkage and clutch master to work with where the placement of the brake master was a challenge. But we got it figured out.

Trying to get steering linkage to go around 1 3/4” headers was a bit tricky. I think I will end up going with a double u-joint and a support bearing will do the trick.

Right now, we have been working on the exhaust. Getting a 3” exhaust with a pair of Borla mufflers under there has been a challenge. We have it up to the mufflers at the moment. Working on trying to get the pipe up and over the rear end and dealing with the rear panard bar. We have a coil over rear on it, so no buggy spring in the way. Which helps. I have an idea I will probably try this weekend.

If you decide to go with the A frame. Shoot me a PM and I’ll send you photos of how I did stuff. Can’t post the photos here due to parts used.

 

Thanks really appreciate it.

 

If it was mine I would use the A frame. You can find the data for the '32 frame here: http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/Tech/FrameDiagram1932.pdf . You could have probably guessed I was going to say that looking at my AVATAR. It is powered by a 181 cubic inch Mercruiser marine engine. To me the only time the '32 frame looks good is on a fenderless car where the frame shows.

Charlie Stephens

 

My roadster headers are 13/4", one approach is to use a short steering column to get the steering shaft headed downhill before it enters the engine bay by having a u-joint inside the firewall to start the direction change, and yes, an intermediate shaft is required.
I know it kills some people to buy an extra u-joint, 3/4" shaft and rod end but it sure frees up space.


I did something similar in my 66 Suburban.

 

That’s a real smart way to setup the steering. The problem I have is the steering column I have has is long. It’s one of the tilt columns that Limeworks makes. I think it’s 30”. That is the shorter of the two they offer. So just the splines are sticking out of the firewall now.

I was able to get it with using just 2 joints. But I am thinking it will put it in a bind. I am thinking of coming out with a ujoint down a bit into a double then straight down to the box. So one ujoint and a double.

 

Riley Automotive swept front Zed rear A frame with 32 wheel base for firewall clearance.

 

I've always preferred the look of a model a frame fenderless or fendered.... channelled or not since before I even knew the difference. 32 frames just always looked too bulky in my eyes

 

Tight radius fabrication donuts & oval,
Pick your brand wisely ,not all are made equal ( as tight radius)
(Aviation tighter )


I know that Lime works column $$
Cut it to length needed ,

On a A frame , had problem with master cylinder in typical location so I just placed it roughly 20 inches further back underneath the car, drilled ,
(Side & divider wall )& tapped master cylinder to add a remote reservoir ,