Technical Fresh Rebuild Clacking

This right here from ekimneirbo is a true fact and I quote, " Most of us offering suggestions have struggled thru situations like this but usually had someone to ask about it. So don't get frustrated." I still feel your best avenue considering the investment made is to get the Machine Shop involved that built the Motor. Worst thing that can happen is they point out a novice mistake and you fix it. You will never forget that bit of education.

 

It sounds like metal to metal contact while the engine is running. I would agree that you should not drive it until you find to source of the noise. There is interference somewhere, so it must be found ASAP.

If you're lucky, it's "only" the dipstick contacting one of the crankshaft counterweights, but it sound more like a too-long, protruding bolt having it's head slowly being shaved down by a flexplate counterweight or similar.

The Buick 300/340 series started in '64, so I think the Grandfather Clause would be invoked here. Besides, some of us like these engines.

Having just reassembled the valvetrain parts on my '66 Buick 300, and having installed the rocker arm shaft backwards (which I discovered upon initial oil pump testing with both valve covers off), I can understand how one mistake on an engine like this can lead to a major issue. I'm no Buick 300 expert at all, and won't assume the OP's expertise level, but a full removal and re-install, even if someone else did all of the engine work, is not as simple in practice as it might sound on the internet. That said, open ears and a closed mouth go a long way towards learning and minimizing future mistakes. I believe that's still called wisdom, which usually requires a certain number of years and mistakes to acquire.

 

I'm back! Don't worry y'all haven't scared me off yet haha.

I got the dizzy from TA Performance and installed that.

I installed some braided lines for the trans cooler, replacing the hard lines that could have been rattling around.

I only changed the passenget side exhaust gasket back in the day because I thought the sound was coming from that side..... So I went ahead and put the remflex gasket on the driver side manifold too hahahahaha.

I think I found a crack on the driver side manifold! I will be borrowing my buddies sniffer tool to see if the crack is superficial or leaking...

Also changed the oil and did a little filter dissection.. it looks and feels like sand in the filter. Nothing bigger than a grain of sand. Is this abnormal for break in?

Filled it up with some 10-30 conventional and stp additive and fired it up. Runs amazing with the new distributor. Will take it around the block tomorrow to see if the sound persists.

Check out this filter...

 

Take a magnet to it and see what the magnet picks up off the paper. Hard to tell what I'm seeing there.

 

Here we go, ran the magnet across a few folds.

 

Photo didn't load, just the Red X.

 

That is not good and not normal.

 

Uh oh...

 

That my friend is a motor that needs to come apart judging from the filter and magnet pictures. A tiny bit of "shiny stuff" in a filter isn't the end of the world but that is bad news. I've cut and analyzed filters for years trust me. Now it doesn't really matter what caused it!

 

Did you ever go talk with the shop that built your motor?

 

Yeah he said it sounded like bad timing, pinging..

but I'm about to send him this picture! Maybe he'll give me a good customer discount

 

So when you do round two of this make sure that everything involved in engine timing on this one go in the garbage. This was definitely a timing issue. It would be fun to pull it apart and see the carnage.

 

Looks bad, pull it out. Friend just went thru this, a machine shop did not clean out block after machining, debris was behind cam bearings. Bearings full of metal. Pulled, cleaned, turn crank, back together running good today. Shit happens...402 BBC.

 

Well, filter is working. There’s that.
I think now becomes ambition and time.
Ie flush and run, or pull it and see what’s up.
Odd(not really) the shop said (imo to deflect blame) it’s caused by detonation.
I think the Dane led them to that conclusion and an easy way out trying to be honest.

 

I had only talked to the shop about the sound and showed them the videos of it.

But I'll be talking to them again today.

I did drive it 10 miles to the nearest muffler shop with the timing out of whack. But I wonder what causes damage like that when it's running rough with the timing off, isn't it a non-interference engine?

Too much pressure on the bearings as it missfires? I guess it doesn't really matter as blackdog said. Time to pull it

 

The oil pump gears and most likely the oil pump housing/timing cover, are likely trashed, too. Aluminum doesn't care much for steel bits passing through tight clearances.

I would drop the pan first, then inspect and go from there. Odds are the filter didn't catch everything, but sometimes we get lucky and only some soft bearing wear surface material made it through. I bet the oil pump pickup screen has some debris trapped in it, too.

 

Its always bad to find out a newly built engine has major problems. I would show the filter to the builder and make sure he agrees that there is a problem. Since this all started with a "clacking sound" I have to suspect a lifter may have wiped. The problem with returning an engine is that a low profit margin builder may get it going again but not do all the needed steps. It might be a good time to learn how to assemble the parts yourself and have him clean and repair the block and crank on his dime. He might even let you do the assembly in his shop so he doesn't lose time. My point is that if you yank the engine and start disassembly without his approval, he may not stand behind the engine.

 

I have learned that poor craftmanship seldom gets better the second time around. You put your hands in the mix and you will be the reason for his next failure. New parts do fail but I'd put the total package back in his lap. This will probably just end up being a very expensive lesson.

 

Photo document everything in case it ends up in a disagreement.

 

He is a good dude and I trust his shop.

After talking, he agrees it has to be opened up. Then they'll take it back for cleaning and rebuilding no sweat.

I'll post some pics of the damage.

 

I finally got around to taking apart the engine.

It looks like a few scratched bearings, which seems like material had to be sandwiched in between during assembly..

 

That's always a bummer to find that kind of damage, especially the deep groove in the rearmost crank pin. I would say the engine block did not get properly cleaned before assembly.

Not sure if that crank is worth repairing or not. I have a good used '64 Buick 300 crank you are welcome to have if it comes to that.

On the bright side, the cam lobes looked good.

How do the cam bearings look? I was advised to use the grooved cam bearings from TA Performance, so I will probably follow that advice.

 

The cam bearings are smooth.

I think I’m just going to take it to TA so they can do it right.

Thanks for the offer! I’ll let you know if I need it