Technical Upgrade from Rochester 2G to Edelbrock 1406 worth it?

makes sense to clean/rebuild now I’m seeing it shouldn’t take a lot of time and is an additional data point if I ever do upgrade to a 4 barrel and intake. It would be interesting to see how it runs with a cleaned up 2g carb in conjunction with seeing how much slop is in the timing chain and checking compression.

 

There was a recent thread about how some shouldn't be allowed to work on things / have tools .....

 

We all had to learn at some point. As least he is doing some research, which is smart. Hopefully the kid quits typing about it and gets to work.

 

Let's put this to rest for now.
Report back after carb is cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled.

 

The only reason I would fit in that category is time... I have a lot of responsibilities with a demanding government career 60+ hour work weeks, a 3 bedroom house (just me) and yard to maintain, and 2 other cars (shoebox ford and my daily driver) always needing work, plus I like to surf (a lot!!!) and sometimes I have to drop everything if there's a potential date with a woman..

I've done intricate things on this truck successfully, as an example installed a power steering setup and replaced every single seal on the TH350 and not a single drop of fluid leaking as we speak (watch me jinx this). In my career I've designed/built everything from intricate custom PCBs (printed circuit boards), to mechanical systems for underwater robotic systems.

I am capable and extremely particular about workmanship (though impatient and easily distracted by so many things). I will rebuild the carb and start from there.

 

Yes agreed, I will buy the rebuild kit and report back when its rebuilt and reinstalled. This might happen mid/late December but won't pursue any intake or edelbrock components right now.

 

Get a different ,less time consuming job , live in an apartment. Lease a current model year ,hire a female as needed , now you should have loads of free time ! Simple ! !Problems solved !

 

Haha I would but I'm an alpha type personality living in the land of competition

 

Just for reference those 2g's are good carbs. I would not switch it out for unknown used parts when time is a factor. Those 2g's were terrible for the bodies coming loose and running different every time you start it. That is just something to check as a diagnostic tool. They had 3 or 4 screws came in from the bottom and you had to remove it to get to them. You can just grab the fuel line and wiggle it and see the carb move or if it is running it will change rpm.

 

I was going to mention the "getting loose" thing, I forgot to...glad you brought it up.

 

He doesn't even need to change any of that, in the time he's spent typing all the posts about this problem he could've put rings and bearings in the thing and driven it enough to break it in.

 

Just buy a new Amazon carb, cheap and quick, you are not maintaining an F1 car., and obviously have other things more important to spend time on.
https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-R...FCezqD6ZvoU7b4iQV2yvsF2L6YBPJQLBoCjWsQAvD_BwE

 

Heck no!

 

The 1-1/2 turns out myth, is just a starting point
Get yourself a cheap assed vacuum gauge [nobody uses these anymore] and learn to set the mixture with the vacuum gauge.
I would set the float levels and mixture before rebuilding the carb, to see if there is an improvement [this is free! and can be repeated as many times as possible]

I'll let "Uncle Tony" teach you this old timer black art

Buy some timing tape ASAP and use a conventional timing light.
Once you've added the timing tape it is easier to check at any time.

Careful here! Don't let the wrong head do the thinking

Q: What's the difference between a Woman and a Supercharger?
A: The Supercharger makes you smile when it starts whining

 

All the " setting" with all the gauges in the world won't do a damn bit of good if there's crap in the carb/ fuel system , the throttle shaft is just plain worn out , the needle & seat are damaged ,the accelerator pump check valve is leaking or the float is absorbing fuel & sinking

 

Nah - use a 500 cfm Holley 2 barrel...

 

True mate!

But I've got a lot of engines to run sweat by adjusting the carb correctly [prior to throwing parts at it]
Sometimes the problem is somebody previously dicking with it [with out the knowhow]

I'm the same with computerized cars , where I've seen some kid make adjustments using his phone and a bluetooth OBD2 adaptor.

If it doesn't pan out all @SDrocker needs to do is rebuild it later [it will still need adjustments] and he will be more experienced at making these final adjustments

 

If you can sucessfully apply for and get two patents and do high tech computer stuff.....you can do a rebuild of one of the simplest carbs ever built.......stop overthinking it....put your big boy pants on and do it !! And have fun

 

Thanks so the 1 1/2 turns is a starting point indeed. I have a vacuum gauge connected to manifold that I left there and haven't taken it out until I feel this thing is reliable again. I set the idle mixture screws using the gauge and to the highest vacuum (about 18 in hg) according to instructions I found online from a rochester 2G parts source. The problem is this thing was finicky and stuttering in front of my neighbors house and it shut off and I was so embarrassed (this is a guy who owns a harley and busts my balls all the time about my truck and shoebox and luckily he wasn't home)... to get myself back up and going as fast as possible I just set it to 1 1/2 turns and got the fuck out of the street and back in my driveway and into my garage

I have timing tape on it.. I'll need to get a helper.. last time I tried to get it to 3000 rpm with my tiny tach and trying to hold one hand on the throttle and check timing with poor eyesight (my eyesight has gone downhill lately) I ended up melting part of the timing light (sears craftman) wire clamp on the exhaust manifold though caught it fast enough it was just the corner....

When I look at the gaskets externally on the carb they look dark, gooey, caked! I don't know I'd be able to take anything apart to check the float level/etc without making a mess and needing new gaskets at which point I should just rebuild no?

 

I thought about this a while ago but these might be overseas made parts that might be worse off in the end? I can't tell... I would gladly spend just a mere $100 if that was the case but something tells me its too good to be true and should just rebuild like everyone else suggests.

 

Unless I found a brand new or remanufactured with warranty I'm back where I am now... and I'm just going to rebuild what I have like others have suggested.

 

I'm assuming this is the one I should get? Looks like Oreilly has it in stock! I'll get this tomorrow.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...2g-2gc-2gv-carburetor-tune-up-kit/wlk0/15289c

Should I order something like this for cleaning instead of just spray cans?
https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-Products-996-Chem-Dip-Carburetor/dp/B00DSMEL2A/


Also while I'm at it I wonder if I should order float, accelerator pump, and other components that will hold up better to ethanol content in our fuel?

 

Or overthink things!

 

Just looked at these ,for$100 its hardly worth cleaning the old one ( if these are any good )

 

What you describe Tells me you got grit in the carb or bad throttle plate bushings.
You could rebuild the two barrel carburetor it's pretty easy honestly the hardest part is setting the float which honestly isn't too hard either although sometimes I can get frustrated doing it. Anyways that is supposing the throttle plate still in good shape.
My big problem is with all carburetors as they have now gotten to the age where they are super old they are hard to get parts for and almost all of them throttle plate shaft is worn out and bushings are no longer part of a rebuild kit for a carburetor so if that is the case (you can tell by grabbing the throttle plate and trying to wiggle it if you get even a slight bit of wiggle it is time for it to be removed and the carburetor drilled and bushed, I don't know the exact tolerances but it's supposed to move open closed but not have any lateral movement along the "hinge" area for the lack of a better word). you would have to find bushings if there is movement in the throttle plate (it's a pretty common problem). A plus side being a GM it should still be pretty easy to find parts for it if you look for them.

As for the Edelbrock 1406 it is an absolutely wonderful 600 CFM electric choke carburetor, anybody that talks trash on it doesn't know what they are talking about, it isn't a race car carburetor but it is an excellent daily driver carburetor, it is pretty much a clone of an old Carter AFB but with a larger mount/snout/airhorn for a modern type air cleaner. The only bad part is they have been making that carburetor for 30 or 40 years now so who knows if the one you are looking at that is used is actually in really good shape or if it is wore out also. That being said I know from buying them there is a slew of them all over the internet if you're looking for them in the $200 to $300 range rebuilt and there is now a Chinese clone apparently that I've seen on eBay that is around 180 bucks personally I would be leery of a Chinese carburetor because I can't think of one thing China has built that I've been happy with but I guess there is a first time for everything but I digress..
If you change the carburetor and the intake manifold on your small block Chevy it realistically is good for about 20 horsepower, it's pretty significant when you consider stock your small block probably makes 160ish horsepower. When it comes to adjusting the timing since you've removed I would assume most of the smog BS I personally would do it by ear and seat of the pants, I would advance it as far as possible with the engine still being able to start up easily and not hearing any pinging climbing a large hill (for example the one coming on interstate 8 near Alpine should make it ping if you work accelerating going uphill if it is timed to advanced.
The engine may be tired but if it isn't it consuming any oil and it has decent oil pressure that is probably not the case it's probably just gutless, cast iron emissions manifolds, EGR intakes and tiny valve heads along with retarded cam timing are all typical problems of mid 1970s engines. Put on a set of ram horn manifolds or a set of cheap block hugger headers go to the local swap meet in Santee find a set of cast iron big valve heads and you will wake that engine up where you will be absolutely happy with it.

 

The older GM 1-barrel carbs on the 6-cylinder engines were notorious for the sections being loose. By eye they could be seen to have gas tracks down the sides. Grab the top... wiggle, wiggle...

 

The Ethanol fuel we have today my have messed up the needle and seat as it may be swelled up shutting of some of the fuel at times and when it sits it lets some fuel back in the float bowl so it runs. I am with everyone else that says take a little time off and rebuild the 2gc it is an awesome carb. Most just need a cleaning and a rebuild kit. Check the o/haul kit to make sure it is compatible with Ethanol fuel.

 

I am also a fan of the Ed0lebrock 140x series carb, and found then easy to adjust as necessary. The manual provided with the carb is very helpful when it comes to changes needles and seats, but one can (or could, a decade ago) find the manual online if the carb is acquired secondhand.

I found the 1406 was a bit too rich for a mid '70s Mopar 360 (similar to the O.P.'s '75 Chevy 350), so I ended up going two step leaner, and learning how to change out the needles and seats in the process. Granted, mine was new, so there may be additional issues when buying used, but rebuilding one and seeing how everything works can only help with future tuning and adjusting. I think the 15053/4 (500 cfm) might be a better choice, too, but you work with what you've got.

 

The float is probably brass and is fine if it doesn't have a leak (gas inside). The kit you show above includes accelerator pump and needle & seat that should be updated to be compatible with today's E10 gasoline.

 

...not to mention the fact that it won't fit your intake manifold without an adapter anyway.