Hello fellow HAMBers, I am humbly requesting for your input. I am building my first Hot Rod, a '31 Model A five-window coupe. Shortly after acquiring the Coupe body and frame from a farmers field in Louisiana, I was fortunate enough to locally procure a 1939 Ford Deluxe drive train and suspension from a restored vehicle that was receiving a "LS" swap. My plan is to build a early post-war Hot Rod and primarily use parts I already have, procure old Ford steel for what I need, and aftermarket to fill the void. I have dropped the '39 axle 2 inches. I have a '32 front crossmemeber to replace the cracked "A" crossmember, and a '32 K-member for mounting the 3 spd transmission, juice brakes pedal assy. The steering will be accomplished utilizing a F100 steering gearbox. I will eventually "Z" the rear of the "A" frame for a lower stance sitting on '39 wide fives. I have no plans to chop or channel the body. I am using the Vern Tardel books for reference, in addition to information available on the World Wide Web. One of the many decision points I am wrestling with is, what to do with the Houdaille shocks. I believe in a traditional sense, it would be most appropriate, but in terms of driving enjoyment they may be least appropriate. What is your experience with these shocks?
Why’d you use the 39 axle instead of the A? A 32 front crossmember isn’t wide enough for the A frame. I’d suggest finding another A.
I've built two Model A's using the Tardel book and used modern shocks on both of them. If you're planning on using a radiator mounted it the stock location you might need to rethink the 32 front crossmember.
The '32 front crossmember will actually raise the front an inch or so. That's why so many of us use the '30-'31 A crossmember in our '32 chassis's to lower them. Dave
Dave, The '39 axle, spindles and juice brake drums all came together. The width of the front axle will be the same width as the rear as far as wheel tracking, and it is what I had. The '32 front crossmember is an aftermarket unit from Good speed USA - Steel Deuce Factory Style Front Crossmember For 1928-1932 Ford Boxed Frames. It appears to be wide enough. I hope it will work. /r, Austin
Yeah, that is another concern I have too. I have attached a picture of the crossmember. I'm not completely sure where to mount the radiator. What version radiator will fit behind an A grill and handle cooling for a V860?
Dave, This is good to know. The vendor provided information for the Duece style crossmember states the following; - Designed to be used with model A & 32 Ford boxed frames - Measures 24" at its longest point & 4-1/2" wide at its widest point (see second photo for all dimensions) - Made with original tooling - Offers improved caster to eliminate spring bind with a 7 degree angle in relation to the stock located radiator mounting pads and lowers your Model A or '32 an additional 1" - Crossmember may require trimming based on application /r, Austin
OK, so it's an after market crossmember, not a stock '32! That thows out the issue of it raising the car. Not sure how it can lower both a Model A AND a '32 since they are 1" different but at any rate it shouldn't raise the A. Radiator mounts like stock A or '32. Dave
The Model A frame is 25-1/4" wide at the end of the front frame horns. The width at the crossmember between the rails will be something similar. Your aftermarket crossmember will be too narrow unless you also box the frame and mount the crossmember to the boxing plates. It's been marketed by someone who's just a reseller and has zero knowledge of old Fords. Aside from the width issue is the height of the radiator mounting pads on the crossmember. The '28-29, '30-31, and '32 crossmembers are all different in that department. You should either repair your current original crossmember or source another replacement '30-31 crossmember. Radiator wise there won't be any existing drop-in applications. You could either have the tanks of your original radiator modified to have the correct dual inlet/outlet to match the V8, or purchase an aftermarket one that is set up for a V8 Flathead. There are a number of supplier of such radiators, with Brassworks and Johnson Radiator Works being the leaders (and priced accordingly). Regarding the front axle, the '37-41 axles are not commonly used on the '29-36 cars due to the width between the spring perches (which is wider and would prevent you from using your A wishbone) and width between the kingpins (which is narrower, sucking the wheels further into the fenders.
Mike, I am gonna take your advice and ditch the duece crossmember and repair the A crossmember. Too many variables to go wrong. In lieu of utilizing the A wishbone, I was planning to split them and bend for clearance. Since the width between kingpins is narrower on 37-41 axles, do you believe there will be an interfearance issue even without fenders? /r, Austin
The A axle will fit perfectly in relation to the stock width spring, and giving the most clearance for tires turning. The 39 spindles will fit right on. That’s why 99% of hot rodders would use the A axle over the 39.
The way you explained it makes better sense to me now. I'm gonna dig out a spare A axle and start cleaning it up. Not sure how much drop I want. Maybe 4 inches. Thanks for the advice.
Yes, and a common problem. I looked at the website and the bulk of what they they sell is ponycar/pickup stuff and a lot of T shirts. On the plus side, a lot of the hot rod chassis parts seem to be P&J.
When using the A axle in the front, is there a concern with wheel tracking using the '39 banjo rearend?
Not really, the tires don't have to be perfectly in line. Alot of guys have done that swap with no issues. Look at all the Brookville body 32 out there with 9" rears under the back and a Henry axle dropped up front. The main issue on rear end width is making sure it doesn't look stupid on how far the tires are from the body. If you were building a Sedan Model A, then the extra width would be perfect, if a coupe or a roadster, the stock A rear is plenty wide and looks perfect fenderless. A stock A banjo can handle 150 hp through it if its in great health, don't expect it to handle clutch drops and racing every day of the week, but surprisingly a good stock 24 stud flatty is plenty good for pushing it down the road and the stock rear will take it. I had a 100 hp banger in my A coupe I just sold earlier this year, no issues at all with the rear. To answer your orig question about the Houdalie shocks. They function quite well when built properly, decent ride etc. To really nail down the year you are looking to hit style wise, tube shocks or lever action shocks are more appropriate. The ride on tube shocks can be great or stiff, all depends on the shock choice, the issue is, there is alot of chrome junk out there. This picture shows rear track width and the coupe body very well. I was aiming for Gow job era on mine, the houdalie shocks rode great on this car, I think alot has to do with adjusting the valving correctly.
No. I did wonder that also. The way it's written suggests that is the case. I'd like to know the method if it is.
The '29 Tudor in my avator has a 59ab flathead, '39 trans and the stock Model A rear end and has been that way since 1958. Original builder drove it as a daily driver for 3 years of high school and 5 years of college to get an engineering degree and continued driving it after that. Do the A front axle, '39 brakes all around and stock rearend. It'll work fine. Dave
My avatar was V8 60 powered and was a disappointment engine fit great and looked like it belonged there but lacks torque. They used V8 60 in sprint cars and race boats but these are high rpm uses, mine had offenhauser heads and was a dog until about 2500 rpm. That's the reason I sold the car it was ok around town but was never happy with it, I was running 3:78 rearend and the V8 60 rearend had 4:44 gears to make up for the lack of torque.
No, I will have Anson's axles do the drop. Early Ford Lincoln Zephyr GM & Ford truck Axles dropped & repaired Please text or call for services-details -pricing 530-537-9322
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