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1952-59 Ford 1956 Mercury Monterey Frame Notch ???

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by Sgt. John, Dec 11, 2023.

  1. Sgt. John
    Joined: Nov 23, 2014
    Posts: 232

    Sgt. John
    Member
    from Virginia

    Good morning. I have a question, I have a 1956 Mercury Monterey and I'm installing a 79 Ford 302 and a C6 Transmission.Big Question is do you have to put a notch in the front crossmember for a 302 Ford engine..I tried 2 different styles of engine mounts and the engine will drop on the mounts but the front sump pan won't clear the crossmember unless you notch it
     
  2. Ltorch
    Joined: Jun 8, 2009
    Posts: 373

    Ltorch
    Member

    I had 302 ford's in a 55 and 56 mercs and never had to do anything with the cross member for oil pan to clear
     
  3. Sgt. John
    Joined: Nov 23, 2014
    Posts: 232

    Sgt. John
    Member
    from Virginia

    Okay..I'm using a 79 302 front sump oil pan.1 set of mounts I had put te engine back to the firewall and if I switched them it would put it into the radiator and the mounts I have now the pan is hitting the crossmember..I did get the windshield cut though
     
  4. tcoupekyle
    Joined: Mar 6, 2007
    Posts: 1,302

    tcoupekyle
    Member

    I just put a 302 in 56 medalist and didn’t need to notch the cross member. I used a front sump pan. It is close but didn’t have to notch it. I used fox mustang mounts and had to open up the factory mounting holes a bit. But no notch.
     
  5. Sgt. John
    Joined: Nov 23, 2014
    Posts: 232

    Sgt. John
    Member
    from Virginia

     
  6. Sgt. John
    Joined: Nov 23, 2014
    Posts: 232

    Sgt. John
    Member
    from Virginia

    Yes.That is what I'm going thru. The pan is about about a quarter of a inch off the crossmember and the drain plug is right on top of the crossmember
     
  7. Paul2748
    Joined: Jan 8, 2003
    Posts: 2,442

    Paul2748
    Member

    Won't a rear sump pan work ?
     
  8. Sgt. John
    Joined: Nov 23, 2014
    Posts: 232

    Sgt. John
    Member
    from Virginia

    From what I have seen on this site,people are saying that the front sump oil pan is needed and the driver side frame pad has been slotted also
     
  9. tcoupekyle
    Joined: Mar 6, 2007
    Posts: 1,302

    tcoupekyle
    Member

    Personally, I would just change pans. My pans drain isn’t over the crossmember it’s 68 mustang pan.
     
  10. tcoupekyle
    Joined: Mar 6, 2007
    Posts: 1,302

    tcoupekyle
    Member

    I also would run rear sump which I’ll do next time I got to pull the motor
     
  11. Sgt. John
    Joined: Nov 23, 2014
    Posts: 232

    Sgt. John
    Member
    from Virginia

    Do you know the motor mount parts number that you used. I tried the 2765 and the 2766 and I have the 2220 and the 2221 early fox body mounts
     
  12. the-stig
    Joined: Jun 24, 2010
    Posts: 1,531

    the-stig
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    This is how I slotted the mount in my 56. I used a grinder.

    [​IMG]
     
    Kustomline54 likes this.
  13. Sgt. John
    Joined: Nov 23, 2014
    Posts: 232

    Sgt. John
    Member
    from Virginia

    Yes sir. Mine is the same
     
  14. Sgt. John
    Joined: Nov 23, 2014
    Posts: 232

    Sgt. John
    Member
    from Virginia

    What side is that
     
  15. tcoupekyle
    Joined: Mar 6, 2007
    Posts: 1,302

    tcoupekyle
    Member

    I don’t know the Mount number off hand but it’s early fox body. And like I said my oil pan is probably 1/8” from the crossmember.
     
  16. the-stig
    Joined: Jun 24, 2010
    Posts: 1,531

    the-stig
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Drivers side.
     
  17. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,570

    evintho
    Member

    You may have the numbers confused. AutoZone has SG-2725 and SG-2726 motor mounts for an '86 Mustang 5.0. These mounts work for a Ford (and I would ***ume Merc). May want to pick up a set and compare them to yours.
     
  18. nosford
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 1,131

    nosford
    Member

    I used a 302 front stump pan from a 1971 Maverick, 1966 Mustang 289 motor mounts, and a small adapter between the frame pads and the motor mounts. IMG_1113.JPG IMG_1167.JPG
     
    Kustomline54 and tcoupekyle like this.
  19. tcoupekyle
    Joined: Mar 6, 2007
    Posts: 1,302

    tcoupekyle
    Member

    That’sa great idea
     
  20. Sgt. John
    Joined: Nov 23, 2014
    Posts: 232

    Sgt. John
    Member
    from Virginia

    Okay thanks..will do
     
  21. Sgt. John
    Joined: Nov 23, 2014
    Posts: 232

    Sgt. John
    Member
    from Virginia

    Yes I tried those and it set the engine close to the firewall BUT the oil pan was close to the crossmember..I might try them again
     
  22. Sgt. John
    Joined: Nov 23, 2014
    Posts: 232

    Sgt. John
    Member
    from Virginia

    Good evening to everyone..I'm not a Ford guy.I have a buddy who is....The 78 302 I have comes from a truck and THE OIL PAN IS THE PROBLEM.He told me to get a front sump pan for a car and it will drop on the frame pads perfectly
     
    Dos Cincos likes this.
  23. Fairlane 62
    Joined: Jan 14, 2009
    Posts: 487

    Fairlane 62
    Member

    Yes Sir, the truck pan is a six quart and the car pan is five. Also, the car pan should have the drain plug on the side rather the rear of the sump. So the car pan should solve the fitment problem.
    James
     
  24. Kustomline54
    Joined: Aug 15, 2009
    Posts: 558

    Kustomline54
    Member

    Did you make that adapter?
     
  25. nosford
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 1,131

    nosford
    Member

    Yes, a 1x1" square steel tube, a piece of 3/8" id steel tube and two 3/8 diameter 3/4" long bolts. Drilled and welded the bolts to the square tube using the same center to center distance as the original motor mounts. Drilled a cross hole in the square tube that fit the od of the steel tube cut to the length necessary to fit inside the Mustang motor mounts. Did not weld at this point. Installed the bolts to the stock frame mounts then set engine in place and installed cross bolt in motor mounts. This allowed me to move the engine forward and back till I got the firewall clearance I wanted then welded the round tube to the square tube. Was quite easy actually, the Mustang engine mounts are very inexpensive and you can find them almost anywhere. Also this required no modification to the frame mounts whatsoever so I could return easily to the Y-Block if I ever wanted to. Hope this all makes sense. Mark
     
    Kustomline54 likes this.
  26. nosford
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 1,131

    nosford
    Member

    The engine has a C4 transmission behind it, here is the adapter plate I had to make to mount the 66 Mustang C4 transmission mount to the stock crossmember. Just a flat steel plate with some holes drilled in it. IMG_1138.JPG IMG_1116.JPG IMG_1170.JPG
     
    Kustomline54 likes this.
  27. Sgt. John
    Joined: Nov 23, 2014
    Posts: 232

    Sgt. John
    Member
    from Virginia

    Happy New Year. I have the Car oil pan now. I've been jammed working..I also bought a new oil pump and screen and also timing set,chain was sooo slack I could take it off the gear and it was plastic with 4 broken teeth
     
    nosford likes this.
  28. Sgt. John
    Joined: Nov 23, 2014
    Posts: 232

    Sgt. John
    Member
    from Virginia

    Good Evening or Good Morning. Finally got my 302 and C6 transmission in..I used the B2220 and B2221 engine mounts and I have the 5 quart car oil pan and the engine dropped in PERFECT!!!! no notching crossmember and have good clearance for the radiator..here's the new. Oil pan 20240117_153346.jpg 20240117_153346.jpg
     
    56longroof and nosford like this.
  29. nosford
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 1,131

    nosford
    Member

    Glad you figures it out! Really feels good when it just drops in after all the frustrating **** that happens first, makes you do a head slap like "why didn't someone think of that first".
     
  30. Fairlane 62
    Joined: Jan 14, 2009
    Posts: 487

    Fairlane 62
    Member

    Now the fun can begin. :)
     

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