Technical Help Identifying Rear End?

Hello everyone! I picked up a 54 Chevy 210 a couple of months ago. It’s not all original and in need of a little TLC. Here’s where I need your guys help.

I need new axles because somebody drilled out the wheel stud holes. The weird thing is, they seem to all vary in size haha.

Can you guys help me identify the rear end? So, I can order the axles without taking the axles out? I’m hoping you guys answered YES . Here’s some pics I took of the leaky rear end. Fixing the leaks will happen soon, after I get the axles.

 

I'm guessing tri five. Could be olds/Pontiac but then it'd have a bigger bolt pattern. Got a part number for the third member?

 

Going to say tri five based on housing ends

 

55-64 Chevy car, but you really need to remove the axles to see what they are...there were different wheel bearings used, different lengths, etc.

 

55 or 56 Chev. 57 up had a drain plug on the bottom of housing.

 

my 62 Vette housing doesn't have a drain plug.

 

The Chevy Pope, I was looking for the tag on the 3rd member and I think I just spotted it in one of the pics. I will crawl under there tomorrow and wipe the spot where I think there’s a round tag. Would I find the part number on there? One of my buddies also said a tri five type rear but he wasn’t 100 on it.

Squirrel, I was afraid of getting that answer. I should just pull the axles. I was hoping for the easy way.

IrishSteve, I’m starting to believe that’s what it is. It gives me a starting point to shop some prices. I’m also hoping the rear end built tag is still there for some re***urance.

Is there any brand of axles I should stay away from?

 

No drain plug on a ‘64 station wagon rear I have.

 

I'm thinking those big rusty brackets that are hanging down on each side are what's left of the lower Control arm brackets in a 58/64 rear end. I know when we put a 61 rear under my 48 in 1973 I had to cut more brackets off it than you could write home about.

 

Seeing as you're taking out the axles anyway, can't you get the holes filled, and redrilled??
You'll be buying new bearings either way..

 

You could just have a machine shop redrill the BP. No reason to even fill the holes.
A possible option is drill then ream to proper size after checking Dormans site for wheel studs.
They probably have something in a size you’ll need.

 

The tag doesn't have a number, but it will tell you what ratio it is (or what ratio it was before someone changed the ratio). The shape of the tag is what matters, it will be either fully round, or have a notch or other shape cut in it. There will also be a casting date on the iron housing, and a stamped number on it, which together might narrow down what the center section was originally installed in. Unfortunately that won't tell you for sure what axles you have, because it was very common to replace the center section with something else.

here are pics of the tag and numbers on my 62 Vette center section. This stuff was all original to the car, which is kind of rare. On mine, the H 18 1 casting date of August 18, 1961 indicates it would be installed in a very early production 1962 car, which is what it is. The stamped letters CA indicates Corvette 3.36 ratio open differential.

 

Mr48Chev, all I know is they are the air bag perches at the moment haha. I’m slowly learning everything about this car.

Inthweedz & Budget36, I didn’t even think of that option. It will definitely be something for me to think about.

Squirrel, I was able to get under the car real quick and wipe off a little crud before my son called me to make him some food haha. I found one row of numbers, the GM letters and the white round tag. I posted some pics. I’m not sure if there is more under the numbers or behind the tag. I’ll have to try again tomorrow for a little more excavation of the other side.

 

This car seems like it’s starting to snowball on me. I want to just drive it and enjoy it already but, I want/need to fix all the Mickey moused stuff.

Here’s a couple of photos I was able to get today.

 

I think that casting number is 1955-56. When you get a chance to find more numbers, let us know

 

@squirrel I just looked under the beast on the opposite side and I didn’t see any stamping. I wonder where it would be stamped on a 56 3rd member? A quick search of 3707306 brought up that it was from a 56 (from a different forum, somebody had the same numbers). I drove the car one time only and then put it up on jack stands. The gear ratio did seem low like 4.11 or slightly higher. I’m not sure if it’s the gearing in the 3speed 52 caddy trans or the torque on the 331.

I have a question, to pull the axles, do they come out easily and can the bearings be reused with the same axles if I just remove them for measurements and then reinstall?

 

You should be able to remove the axles. The bearings are pressed on to them, plus there's a lock ring pressed on after the bearing. But usually it takes some effort to pull the axles out, you might need a big slide hammer with a flange that bolts to 3 of the lug studs. Or some other type of slide hammer, perhaps with a hook to hook around the back of the axle flange.

Once you get them out, you can look them over and see what condition everything is in. You might be able to find some studs that have a larger knurl, so you can drill out the holes and press in the new studs. Getting the hole size right for proper press fit can be tricky, though.

 

I always reversed the drum with a couple of lug nuts and used that as a slide hammer.

 

Sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't.

 

A piece of chain and a cinder block make an axle puller...

 

@squirrel Thank you squirrel. I definitely have a lot to think about and make a decision.

@sdluck I’m going to try this method first with the rotor disk and hopefully it works haha.

I don’t think I ever plan on making a crazy amount of power in this car. It has a 52 Cadillac 331 with matching 3 speed trans. Im debating if I should salvage this rear end and redoing what’s there correctly or….. redo the whole rear suspension with a 9”.

Anyone have an idea which brake bracket this is? I might need other one because one side is off by a 1/4”.

 

@i7083 I love your thinking! If I can’t borrow a axle puller tool, I will try this method

 

Wear gloves...

 

@i7083 Most def hahaha. I know how sticky and stinky gear oil is

 

I think he meant wear glove if you use something besides a slide hammer to try to get the axles out. Like the chain method...it's an accident waiting to happen

 

@squirrel damn, you’re correct. I didn’t think of that! Accidents are always waiting to happen.

 

Be sure to measure axel bearing o.d.. This will confirm if housing is 55 56 (small bearing) or 57-64 (big bearing) since not all housing have drain plugs as all ready mentioned.

 

@Johnny Gee thank you Gee, I will make take note of this. The 3rd member is from 56, we figured that part out so far. I’ll get at least 1 or both axles out by Monday for sure.

would both axles be the same length or do I need to pull both axles out?

 

Axles should be different lengths

 

going back to your original post... based on your set-up and if you don't see a bunch of smoky burnouts in your future... you should be able to source some decent used '55 or '56 axles to go back in that housing. They will have a stock 4&3/4" bolt circle, if that works for you. If you were suggesting you were going to order NEW axles, I wouldn't... it should be fairly easy to find some good used ones. My apologies if I have misunderstood...