Technical kent moore piston pin tool bare essentials?

Hi there - i just bought this kit but considering returning it-

not sure if its got the bare essentials or if I need the clamp thing (see pic 2) -

Anyone worked with these? Im just going to buy the GM specific plate for chevy engines- are these kits for only GM brand pistons or kind of universal? looks like the specs go by pin size so im sure itll work across piston brands ok..

 

You need the piece in the second picture

 

gotcha - cancelled and will get the 2nd one. Called and kent-moore is still making these in the US and OEM, the fixture is only 70 bucks - but the universal plate thingy - hmmm, $180!!!!

then the sbc/bbc specific plate - another $150- yikes! The goodson option is starting to look like another option

 

We have several of the plates, I should say you only need the fixture if you intend to save the pistons, it keeps from putting any pressure on the piston when pressing the pin out.

 

thanks - im also confused, the fixture here mentions plate not included.. is the
https://www.toolsource.com/piston-r...remover-installer-press-fixture-p-131033.html



**Does NOT include the Universal Piston Support Fork J-24086-900A**

Does this plate get used with the engine specific plate as well? (see table below) - or just the engine specific plate replace this universal one?

 

aha - diagram shows universal plate -900a WITH 104 thru 910 insert- both required..

 

Depends what you're trying to do. What are you trying to do?

 

The engine specific one replaces the universal one, I can take some pictures tomorrow when I’m at work

 

i work on small and big block chevys 99% of the time, one in 30 pistons when i do the rods get stuck midway.. and ive noted deformation when pressing out pins even with hot small ends - oddly after leaving a set over night they kind of formed back a touch-

I wonder if the goodson plates will work in the kent moore system.. similar principles i guess.. kent moore plates ate 180 each-

 

I currently use a shop press and support the pistons using my bearing pullers - one on each side of the flat spot.. had ok luck but now and then I get pinched.. for example last set of pistons i pressed out all had the same size- but after running into this issue with a new set i lost about 3/4 of a thou (i did let piston cool down)..

now for giggles I did tap the skirt lightly with a dead blow and left em over night.. next morning it was about 95% back where it was..

 

goodson set is over 1k.. kent moore 400. Throw in 2 plates from goodson at 45 each and i can carry on working for 500 bucks.. i cant see the kent and goodson differing that much- support is support imo- doesnt look like a totally proprietary design on the plates..

 

could u give me a shout? 562 362 7418- tried pm you but couldnt -

 

Ok here’s some pictures, the black piece in your picture is basically a part of the fixture and you need specific ones to go on top per application.

These are without the engine specific inserts.

Our selection of inserts. Sorry for the terrible pictures, I was in a hurry.

 

Ours is a very old Kent Moore tool

 

@squirrel who has replied here, made his own fixture. If he cares to, he can post the details, or the link to the thread he posted in.
Pretty slick.

 

No, I didn't make one for pressing the pin out of the rod while supporting the rod....which is what this one does. I just made one to support the piston while I push in the pin.

 

I'm with squirrel. I wouldn't press piston off with my fixture. Breaking the pin free takes a lot more force. Many times the clearance between the piston and rod requires a thin plate that isn't strong enough to press them off.

 

Usually if you try to press them off without the fixture you end up breaking the piston. The above fixture puts zero pressure on the pistons while pressing.

As said it’s only for pressing them apart.

 

1960's model

 

We had the Kent Moore and more guys broke pistons when they used it than when they didn’t. A heavy aluminum plate with aluminum blocks on each side of the piston worked 99% of the time. The mandrels however worked great. Heating the small end of the rod worked even better and full floaters worked the best!

 

The early style top one you changed the whole U shaped piece the later just the insert for different pin size. With the right insert and seating the pin all the way to the back of the U they worked well. Using the wrong insert or not getting the pin all the way to the back of the U is when things broke.

 

Hi sunbeam i tried using this thing yesterday and today and not sure what happened- I could not get th epalte to fit and re-read this thread and saw you mentioned there were 2 styles. Mine must be the older because for the life of me i could not get the plate to fit inside - plus the lower end just bent off like it was made from pot metal. How on earth is this supposed to handle piston pin forces?

So you are saying I have the older style where u can only change out the black support - and the newer one has the plate?

See how rought my casting is? Does not look good at all- the rod goes ****eyed when i try use it without the plate pictured. Just not happening.

 

We used that at the dealer, just about every tech broke the piston or the plate. I used it several times until it was my turn to break a piston. Nowadays we just shove a short or long block in them.