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Technical Fuel pump delema

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ActionYobbo, Dec 23, 2023.

  1. ActionYobbo
    Joined: Mar 28, 2022
    Posts: 351

    ActionYobbo
    Member

    I built my fuel system to run EFI with a pump in the tank but now I am going to run a carburetor for a few years. Do I have to take the pump out of the tank to run the engines mechanical pump?
     
  2. pprather
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 8,959

    pprather
    Member

    Or replace the in tank pump with one that outputs only 5 psi.
    Or a standard fuel pickup in tank and an inline electric pump, limited to about 5 psi output, or as you suggested, the engine mounted mechanical pump.
    Anyone have additional ideas?
     
  3. TCTND
    Joined: Dec 27, 2019
    Posts: 748

    TCTND
    Member

    I'd probably pull the EFI pump out, clean and dry it and put it away for the time being, and replace it with a low pressure electric pump, either internal or external.
     
  4. 38Chevy454
    Joined: Oct 19, 2001
    Posts: 6,787

    38Chevy454
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Engine mechanical pump should be able to pull through the elec pump in the tank. But why have that extra restriction. Just take out the elec pump and save for later; and add whatever extension to get the fuel pickup to the bottom of the tank.
     
  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,927

    squirrel
    Member

    Might depend what kind of tank you have and what pump it has.

    Details help
     
  6. inthweedz
    Joined: Mar 29, 2011
    Posts: 631

    inthweedz
    Member

    Is it a modern factory tank unit? these have the pump, gauge, surge bowl all included, or an aftermarket pump only?
    The factory electric fuel pump (probably applies to all EFI pumps) is a small gear type of animal, there might be too much restriction for the gas to flow..
    If it's using a factory type, remove the pump and add a pickup pipe with the original strainer, this will still allow the gauge unit to operate.
     
    alanp561 likes this.
  7. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 15,957

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I run my flathead powered roadster with an tank EFI pump with three 97's. I run a carburetor "return" style regulator to knock the pressure down to 4 PSI and another Holley regulator to further reduce it to 2.5 psi before it hits the carbs (as I could not find a return style regulator that will reduce the pressure to 1-4 psi in one piece). Runs great and has for a few years now. Anything is possible with the correct engineering and money.
     
    osage orange, Tim, pprather and 7 others like this.
  8. PotvinV8
    Joined: Mar 30, 2009
    Posts: 550

    PotvinV8
    Member

    I agree with Billy. Put a regulator in that lowers the pressure down to what your carb needs and let the remainder return back to the tank, shouldn't be a problem. Pump will run cool and your carb will get what it needs, then if you decide to go back to EFI, just swap out the regulator with a higher PSI unit.
     
  9. ActionYobbo
    Joined: Mar 28, 2022
    Posts: 351

    ActionYobbo
    Member

    What pressure regulator are you guys using. I have a EFI return style regulator that goes down to 30. I had it installed but removed it yesterday. If I put that back in and add a non return 1-8 pressure regulator after it before the carburetor will that cure my problem?
    I don’t know exactly what pump I have Its a tanks inc unit that replaces the original. I got the whole setup at a swap meet in 2019.
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2023
  10. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,927

    squirrel
    Member

    427 sleeper and Truckdoctor Andy like this.
  11. ActionYobbo
    Joined: Mar 28, 2022
    Posts: 351

    ActionYobbo
    Member

    I think I answered my own question. I will put the return style fuel pressure regulator back in and feed that to a 1-8 pound non return regulator that way when I get my dream engine I only have to remove the 1-8 regulator to run the EFI. Much easier than messing around in the tank

    Thanks to Bandit Billy for putting the idea in my head
     
    Tim and Bandit Billy like this.
  12. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 3,915

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    Make sure its a EFI regulator that will adjust down to 0-7 ish psi @ outlet ,,, These will not be a cheap regulator,, $200 plus part .
    You can also dump / byp*** fuel off pump with a open line right back to the tank with a
    ""Y"" so you will have a lower pressure to control @ carb ,,
    Make sure you LOOK @ spec,
    & ALSO if your return line is to small
    Smaller then inside of 3/8s or # 6 ,
    #8 is more efficient, Not all return @ tank are free flowing ,
    Including fittings , it can stack restrict & will still have High press ,
    I switch between Carb & EFI & MFI quite frequently ,
     
  13. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 15,957

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I used something like a Holley 12-845? And then a Holley 12-804 to get my Stromberg's to heal.
     
  14. miker98038
    Joined: Jan 24, 2011
    Posts: 1,579

    miker98038
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Been there. In tank for EFI, into a carb. I was running a McCulloch, blowing thru an AFB, so I used the boost reference. Not cheap, just works. Might be somewhat like what Bandit’s got? Seems to me mine with a spring change would do a throttle body or maybe a port EFI also. Don’t remember.

    https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/a1000-4-port-carbureted-byp***-regulator/
     

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