Hey all, On my model A tub I’m running a 283 with a t5. The serial number says it’s a Camaro WC but maybe that’s just the case? It’s got an s10 14 spline input shaft and s10 tailshaft though. I put an aftermarket 14 spline clutch on there and it wasn’t seating. Ended up grinding the input shaft splines back about an inch and turned down the collar the same. I’m running a 60-62 c10 bellhousing with clutch fork on the pass side. I’m running into issues when I bolt it together. Had about a 3/16” gap when bolting the trans to the bell as shown in the pics. The clutch fork had zero play. After many hours of seeing what the problem could be I decided to removed the throw out bearing and see what would happen without it. It is fully seated now. I was told at the clutch shop that it’s the shorter throw out bearing but I’m wondering if it’s the pressure plate that’s too thick? Or the throw out bearing? Or something else entirely? really stumped on this and three days, lots of googling and hamb searching and hours later I figured it was time to break down and ask on here. The closest thing I found when doing my search was this thread below https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/t5-behind-a-sbc-hot-rod-emergency.417380/ I’ve also attached some pics of the clutch as well as the gap between bell and trans. And two pics of my old and newer style pressure plate. thanks for your time Gordy Also, anyone have trouble getting the top pass side bolt on the trans to seat? Maybe I need thinner sockets or a different style bolt?
By "serial number" do you mean the ID tag number, usually found a sticker on the top of the case cover, or a small metal tag under one of the tailhousing bolt heads? 1352-xxx is the usual format. http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Borg-Warner-T5-ID-Tags.htm If someone did a mix and match using the V8 F-body case and guts with the S10 input shaft, well, see the differences here and you should be able to confirm what you have: https://lugnutz65chevystepside.weeb...en-a-camaro-t5-an-s10-t5-and-an-astro-t5.html http://www.pro-forceperformance.com/t-5_identification.htm Are you using a pilot bearing or bushing? Which clutch disc, PP, and TOB are you using?
Is it my imagination or is the clutch plate the wrong way 'round? Shouldn't the raised side be sitting against the flywheel? Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
Been 10 years since I put a S10 T5 behind a SBC so Ive forgotten some. I bought a aluminum spacer plate,and shortened the length of the tube on the bearing retainer.
WC will have a Timken bearing race visible on the front, Non WC will have no script. Tag is bolted on and may not be correct to case. In the left pic, the race with the raised reveal is WC.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/321168494932 As Irishsteve said, it was the norm to use a spacer such as the one shown in the link and these images including the explanation.
Raised side should be towards the trans, not the flywheel. If turned towards the flywheel it will hit the flywheel bolts.
There are a whole mess of throwout bearings that will fit in there. As you have discovered, there is at least one that won't work. There are two solutions, find a shorter throwout bearing, or use a thin spacer. I tend to use the $29 spacer.
I was having interference problems when installing my Muncie M20 onto my Olds engine/Pontiac bell housing. The S10 five-speed I took out was installed using a spacer/adapter from Cornhusker/Krylon32, which was about 1" thick. I assumed I didn't need a spacer as the Muncie and bell were supposedly compatible, but wouldn't pull up with the bolts. There was some kind of interference, probably in the disc/splines as suggested. I wound up using a spacer of about 1/4" thick and it solved the problem and everything pulled together. Al Hook
The Jalopy Journal
